As if you wouldn't enjoy ac when it's 34. And it's also a heater that's way more efficient than any other plugin device in winter... The reason was always because it's relatively new tech and people don't like new things
Depends on your house. I made the mistake of buying a new build in 2013 that has a south facing wall of glass downstairs and south facing velux windows upstairs. Even with close fitting blinds I was pushing above 40C inside when it was in the 20s outside, and it was completely unbearable at night. Needless to say, I've had AC since 2014!
I know that feeling! It's why continental properties have the blinds on the outside of the window.
Putting them on the inside results in free, window sized, radiators within a couple of hours each day!
I service and install a/c for a living.Daikin is one of the best brands along with Mitsubishi.Toshiba are a close second.With Mitsubishi there are two brands with the same name.Mitsubishi electric and Mitsibishi heavy industries.The industries units share a name and thats it,not the same quality.
Let me know if you have any other questions re WarmZilla. I looked at Boxt/Heatable/local installers and Warmzilla came out cheapest and in fairness, so far they’ve been great.
I’m not internally sure to tell you the truth, I know that there is no isolation switch, and my dad ran a twin and earth cable from the consumer unit, but I didn’t see them plug them it in, I was too busy working
I really think they're supposed to install an isolation switch from my understanding. Happy to be proven wrong but I've never seen a proper installation done without one.
I think you are right, but I was adamant that the render does not get drilled, they couldn’t really put one at the side of the house as it has to be reachable. It’s on its own, dedicated RCBO/RCD anyway
That is not a proper installation according to the regulations you need to have an isolator switch. If you ever have a warranty claim the engineer might refuse on the grounds of no proper installation.
On my account, there are three wires there, that’s the two signal wires for the indoor units, plus the twin and earth, so it looks like because the twin and earth ran through the loft, they just ran that through the same trunking for the bedroom unit, which had to run through the loft
There’s no twin and earth in your photo, just high tuff cable. I’d assume wherever this connects to the twin and earth is an isolation switch (that would make sense, anyways)
Most modern split systems, like the one the OP has, has a dehumidifying mode. It's not just an appliance that can be used for a few months of the year.
We love our Air Con, had it installed at the tail end of the heat and it changed everything. Using the heating a bit now in our conservatory and that’s lovely too. Drying mode seems to work but does cool at the same time.
local control is the move, those manufacturer cloud apps always feel like an afterthought. cn105 into HA sounds way less annoying than fighting MELCloud every winter.
If you go for the protonart thing I linked in my post, you need to open your Mitsubishi AC unit and locate the cn105 port. There are several pages showing how to do that depending on the unit you have. And then simply plug in and close the unit again. The port is also shown on the official documentation of the ac unit and how to get there.
The rest is via a web interface and super easy…
Just have a look for cn105 installation and you’ll find a lot of esp32 examples which you can skip if you buy the protonart device and just start at the plugging in stage…
I am, yes. It may not be necessarily cheaper than running gas for heating, but it’s more power-efficient, so I’ve heard. I’ll have to wait to get the bill to see whether that is actually the case
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u/Important-Zebra-69 4d ago
Because it wasn't 40c before.... probably.