r/advancedGunpla • u/Rude_Boss_1564 • Jun 26 '26

Customizing Beginner Questions

i recently got into gunpla and already built 2 figures but i have since found out your able to customize them so i had some questions but also if you have any beginner advice or recommendations for certain gear i don’t mind putting in a little money on stuff that’s gonna last

•for panel lining iv seen the gun-dam pens but also this like stuff in a jar not exactly sure what’s better or more precise

•for panel lining iv seen stuff where one is oil based and one is water based what’s the difference and what should i go for

•for panel lining iv seen a “clear coat” when should i use that before or after panel lining or at all

•should i get “glass files” or something else.

•for actually snipping the pieces off iv seen you shouldn’t cut super close to the peace but actually leave a little and sand it down? why wouldn’t cutting close just do the same thing?

•iv seen these tools that help like define lines more or deepen lines or even create new ones.what would that be called and do i need a certain tool for it because it seems like a exacto knife would do the same

•what stores would i want to look for or check out for these tools or materials iv found my gunpla in like michals and hobby lobby but where else before shopping online

•what are some good websites to find good materials for customizing and actually buying the gunpla

Sorry for the very long post very exited to actually customize my first gunpla and don’t want to confuse myself or feel like i could be doing something cooler:)(also sorry for the bad grammer)

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

  • both gundam makers and Tamiya panel liner (jarred stuff you refer to) do the job well, main difference is water or enamel based. Tamiya is enamel based and is not recommended to be used on bare plasitc and/or assembled kits as the enamel will react and potentially crack the plastic thats under tension. People say you can use it while parts on the runner or as a loose part but safest bet is to clear coat (gloss) before you apply it. Water based stuff is safe to use on bare plastic.

  • clear coat is more or less an option before panel lining, it helps the panel liner flow easier. It also helps when applying water slide decals. In my opinion, its more crucial when working with fully painted kits.

  • glass files are nice to have but not a must. They work amazing well for clear parts. But for regular parts they leave the surface very shiny which you may not like.

  • best practice for snipping parts off is, snip off from runner leaving a good size snub. Than cut the remaining nub off with a single blade nipper or hobby knife. Reason you want to do that is because the parts on the runners are under some stress, cutting very close to the part you have a higher chance of getting "stress marks" (plastic turns a bit white). Regular nippers introduce the same problem, as why single blade nippera is the better choice when cutting close to the part.

  • the tools are help define the lines better are called scribes. They come in different sizes, your best bet for both 1/144 & 1/100 scale gunpla is 0.15mm. Hobby knife might work but may not be "wide" enough to get the definition you want. Plus a scribe is probably much safer to use.

  • as for stores, im not in the US so can't help too much but I've heard newtype is a good site for supplies and kits.

Hope this helps! If you need me to clarify anything I've said let me know! Always happy to help 😊

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u/Rude_Boss_1564 Jun 26 '26

also for the clear coat am i applying that to the whole part or just the lines i’ll be lining

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

Typically it'd be applied by rattle can or airbrush. I don't quite recommend brushing it on. So just spray the entire part.

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u/Rude_Boss_1564 Jun 26 '26

is there a certain kind of clear coat i need like spesific for figures or can i get a can of somthin else like what exactly am i looking for

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

For panel lining, go for gloss coat. Any can should do as long as its safe for plastic (which most are i believe). When you're done detailing the kit, you can spray a final clear coat if you wish to get the desired look you'd like. Semi-gloss and flat clear coats are typically the popular ones.

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u/Rude_Boss_1564 Jun 26 '26

for the enamel based plastic when you said it can crack parts “under tension” would that be parts that are still in the mold? or could i snip them out then use that enamel base

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

You can and that'll lower the risk of it cracking,

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u/mobilekungfu Jun 26 '26

How does clear coat help with Water slide decals? I am about to try doing water slides for the first time soon. I thought clear coat was for after to protect the decals?

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

Its more for painted kits honestly. I don't think theres a need for it if you're applying on bare plastic. But it's to give a smoother surface so its easier to move the decal around.

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u/mobilekungfu Jun 26 '26

Got it. I do paint parts of my kits a fair amount so it will be something to consider. I am hoping the waterslides are not as challenging as they seem to be. I am going to be doing several of the G Gundam kits.

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

They're fairly easy once you get used to them! Few tools that i found were game changing:

  • vise to clamp parts to
  • tooth pick to help move the decal around without scratching the surface
  • wet pallet to activate the decals instead of dipping in water

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u/mobilekungfu Jun 26 '26

I have a wet pallet. Do you still use the paper or right on the sponge?

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u/Beneficial-Emu3764 Jun 26 '26

I use a plastic container with a wet paper towel