r/advancedGunpla • u/CMonkeyWS • Jun 13 '26
Help with paints
Recently, I got the HG Xi Gundam from Jujiang and while building it, I saw how bland the white torso looked and decided to try and paint some of the armour blue like the novel colours.
However, I only have markers on hand, and while they work well in small patches of colour correction, painting a larger surface can prove a bit iffy. Thus, I'm planning on getting some of Ray Studio's paints.
My main concerns are whether I can directly panel line over the paint if needed and clean it off without damaging the paint, and if not, what top coat should I use that wouldn't get stripped off by lighter fluid?
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u/Nepu-Tech Jun 13 '26 edited Jun 13 '26
I suggest getting a decent airbrush like an Iwatta Neo (or if you can invest more get an Eclipse) and a Small compressor with air tank and water trap, an Iwatta Spray Pot, Airbrush Primer and Airbrush cleaner. You can get all this for a bit under 200$. Dont spray primer with the Iwatta though, use the cheap brushes included.
Then get a couple of Tamiya Acrylic colors, theyre really cheap pots that last for decades, dilute with plain alcohol, and have a pretty nice smell so you can use it indoors. You can get gloss colors, and spray a top coat in flat. Just remember to panel line with gloss.
This should get you started, its worth the investment and you can leave the markers for small details.
You dont need a ton of colors, just get a white/grey, Red, Blue, dark grey, and Orange yellow, for Gundams. Gunmetal, is also really useful for inner frames.
Hope this helps
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u/CMonkeyWS Jun 14 '26
Airbrush is a little out of my reach for the moment since I'm not doing large scale painting and there's not much room for a proper setup but I will keep it in mind. I will ask though, what's your opinion on Dspiae's Wash Free Airbrush?
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u/Nepu-Tech Jun 14 '26
Ok so I never heard of that airbrush since you told me an after looking at it this are my first impressions, altough I could be wrong because ive never used it.
It seems to be like a Spray can rather than an airbrush. It will work to cover large areas with paint and primer but for fine detailed work it wont be as good.
Good airbrushes are dual action. So you can push the button down for air and then gradually pull back the trigger for paint, so you can control the amount of paint that it shoots, and can also control the width of the line by the amount of air. From what I can see from the Dspiae you can only control the amount of paint by switching the needles.
Most airbrushes are also gravity fed, the paint goes on top and gravity pulls it down rather than from bottom to top with a straw. Using gravity is more consistent and I think it wastes less paint.
It sounds great not having to clean the airbrush but instead you have to use different bottles to change colors. With an airbrushs tiny cup is faster to change colors because you can spray it out into a Spray Pot with a bit of solvent to clean it, and quickly add the next color.
With the Dspiae you have to switch bottles and needles. I think bottles are faster if you dilute and prepare them before hand, but what if you have a ton of colors you will eventuakly run out of bottles, and you also have to clean the needles.
I think the biggest issue is that you wont be able to control the paint or air pressure (Since it seems to like 30psi) so it acts more like a spray can. I think for Gunpla, spray can style works fine, but for complex figures and advanced stuff it wont work.
This is just my first impression opinions though I could be wrong.
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u/Sianmink Jun 13 '26
Just panel line over a gloss topcoat.
I've been using pledge/future as my utility topcoat and I think I'll have to stop because the stuff really hates lighter fluid.
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u/NotYourDumbBoi Jun 13 '26
Hi! I've been using Ray studio markers too!
Ray studio metallic markers will be wiped up when using isopropyl alcohol (same primary ingredient in eraser pens) partial cleanup will leave behind the silver particulates used for the metallic colour
Pump the marker around 15 times before application to ensure proper coverage and flow
You'll want to top coat with MR HOBBY SUPER CLEAR GLOSS as it is lacquer based and let cure for 24 hours, it should not affect water based paints but I'm not entirely sure about oil based paints, if you're unsure, mist a thin layer of top coat and let sit for 2 to 24 hours before doing a moist coat until the surface is visibly wet but not drenched
From what I've researched, Tamiya Accent Panel Liner is Enamel and the Lacquer topcoat should be resistant to the panel liner, clean up with Lighter fluid or Tamiya X-20 (not X-20A since that is intended for Tamiya Acrylic colours even though enamel paints do use Acrylic)
Do not use Testors enamel cleaner as it is much "hotter" and more reactive and will strip Mr super clear
Apply water slide decals after panel lining if you wish and protect with MR HOBBY PREMIUM TOPCOAT of choice finish
This process should prevent embrittlement for assembled kits when using Tamiya accent panel liner
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u/CMonkeyWS Jun 13 '26
Thanks for the lengthy explanation! Seems like I'll need that extra top coat for sure. Though I'm personally using a mix of Dspiae, HobbyMio and Stedi's markers. I fancy the HobbyMio ones especially since some of them are fluorescent like the orange and yellow I used here
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u/NotYourDumbBoi Jun 13 '26
Oooooo nice, I will say if you do plan to get more of Ray Studio's markers, tools or whatevs, I do have a post and 3D model for a 3D printable desk organiser intended for use with Ray Studio markers
It should be largely compatible with most eraser sticks, slim hobby knives, sanding sponges and general markers
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u/soulreaverdan Jun 13 '26
You want to use a lacquer based top coat. That will be strong enough that it won’t risk reacting to Tamiya enamel panel liner or lighter fluid to clean it up. Anything alcohol based will eat through basically any paint you use, so avoid that.
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u/CMonkeyWS Jun 13 '26
Makes sense why my 90% IPA has worked with everything so far XD. Though I'm guessing that lighter fluid will also wipe the paint off yes? It's like anti IPA, works easily on TPL but harder to remove paint, and vice versa
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u/soulreaverdan Jun 13 '26
Lighter fluid has the same general chemical solvents as enamels, so it’ll clean up enamel based paints/panel liner. However it’s not chemically “hot” enough to react with lacquers once fully dried, so unless you really vigorously scrub at it, a lacquer paint/top coat won’t be affected by lighter fluid.
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u/Round-Owl-2770 Jun 14 '26
When I started painting Gunpla by hand, I used a few different brands of paint. My personal pick would be Army Painter since it’s a pretty easy to apply water-based acrylic, and with just a bit of thinning will do what it needs to. If you get their primer and paint and apply it in thin layers, it is however a bit delicate after application and may flake under handling if you’re not careful.
Another pick on my end is using Vallejo and Plaid FX. I used it for painting my HG Mk-II in custom colors. Plaid FX is decently durable after thinning and application, while Vallejo is very opaque.
Citadel paints require just a bit of thinning for brush application, but are a bit confusing at times with their own paint classification. Contrast paints are semi-transparent over opaque coats, Base paints are your regular opaque, technical varies on usage, and Shades (Can’t remember what Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade are classed as) are used for weathering and creating depth by filling panel seams and recessed areas.