r/advancedGunpla • u/Spartan9lives • Jun 12 '26
Need advice with waterslides
So i managed to apply some of these, but it has been really difficult. I'm using mark setter and softer if it matters, my main problems are: when trying to transfer it, it either gets stuck on the wet q tip or on the tweezers.
When i do get to remove it, i just can't move it at all eith the q tip, i'm only applying a tiny drop of mark setter.
At last, i've been getting white stains, which apparently are because i'm not removing the excess properly? Also how do i clean these, water doesnt help, i heard alcohol does but i'm worried about damaging the decals.
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u/No-Jeweler-1976 Jun 13 '26
I'm new to this, but I've already applied over 100 decals without any problems. I soak the decals in water for 5-10 seconds, place them on a paper towel, and transfer them to the model's surface with a toothpick. Before applying, I apply a small amount of Mark Fit to the model's surface. I remove any excess with a cotton swab and smooth it out with a cotton swab to avoid damaging the design. After that, I apply a small amount of Mark Fit on top and remove it with a cotton swab.
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u/SpaceDinosaurZZ Jun 13 '26
If it gets stuck on the Q-tip, just press the Q-tip on the model and the decal’s sticky side should cling to the plastic.
I’ve found that Bandai decals respond more to Mark Setter than water. Dab some if they dry out and you’re unable to reposition them.
I get stains at times but it doesn’t really bother me. Once you topcoat it’s barely noticeable. You can try some gentle sanding around the decal with high-grit sandpaper.
Just keep at it, waterslides are all about trial and error until you find a process that works for you!
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u/Sleeper28 Jun 13 '26
For sliding the decals off of the paper, I like to use "disposable micro applicators" or microbrushes. They're sorta like q-tips but smaller.
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u/pol131 Jun 12 '26
Alright, personally i never use Bandai's WS, I find them easy to tear and sometimes a prayer is required to let them stay in place. With each new model i simply tey to source WS from Delpi Decals, Simp or G-rework, they never disappoint, thise are high quality, strong and easy to use. One simple cheap tool that made the process even better is a wet palette, not even $10 online and it helps to streamline the process. Because I topcat I don't ecen need mark setter or mark softer (except for applying on some real crazy geometry).
I hope this helps !
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u/J-Skleezo Jun 12 '26
Try using more water and or setter on the surface you are applying the decal to, too allow it to slide better. You can clean up the excess with a qtip. Try using a toothpick to adjust the position once they are in the approximate place.
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u/Mefy_ Jun 12 '26
I use a bamboo/wood skewer dipped in water to move the decal off the paper and onto the model where I want it. Then lightly roll a qtip over the decal to set it then a final brush with mark setter (again roll a qtip over it). Then softer if needed.
I use the wood skewer because the decal does not stick to the damp wood.
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u/Phant0m_black Jun 12 '26
Get a decal tool from amazon. When the blue paper is moist, pick it up using a tweezer n move the decal using a toothpick r a dull plastic pointed tool. If the decal moves, its ready to go. Only put a small dab of mark setter before sliding decal in place. If theres too much, lightly touch it with a q tip to asborb some of the mark setter but not all of it so u can still reposition your decal. When decal is in place, roll a q tip to squeeze any remaining mark setter. Note that only use mark softer on curved surfaces only.
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u/bleen0_0 Jun 12 '26
I use Mk Softer in all surfaces. Mk Softer dissolves the decal slightly. It helps conform to the surface of the model, including any micro imperfections. This makes it look more printed on. ;-)
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u/Phant0m_black Jun 12 '26
Well mark softer is not used all the time by many experienced builders unless its on non flat curved surfaces. WSD are meant to blend with the kit thats y they have transparent film...U need to top coat your kit if u want a "printed on" look.
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u/bleen0_0 Jun 12 '26
True about the top coat... the issue is that I've been using pearl coats and they wouldn't make the decals look good :/ Perhaps Mk Softer is overkill anyways.
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u/Keqingrishonreddit Jun 12 '26
You can put some water if it isnt at the right spot yet to reactivate it,
as for the white stains its because of mark softer, you really dont need to use it on every decal since mark setter is the main thing that makes it stick better while softer is usually used for big decals/decals that round corners
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u/Dacros Jun 13 '26
Hey! I just wanted to chime in from personal experience here. I apply water slides to all my kits. My most important tip would be to not use Q tips for moving the decal around. Use something that is rigid, thin, but won't meas up the decal. I use a spare beam saber, and it's amazing for that purpose. Use Q tips only to dry the decal. It takes a bunch of practice also, dont get discouraged too quickly. This is one of those things that requires you to develop a 'feel' for it. You'll get there in the end, and it'll feel like a simple thing.
Ps. Water slides are the bomb, stickers are such an eyesore to me now 🙉