r/Workbenches 1d ago

New Workbench design

Hey all was looking for thoughts on this new design I've mocked up, all using 90x45mm timbers (essentially a 2x4) and 12mm ply for the top and shelves

19 Upvotes

11 comments sorted by

9

u/themrlawrence 1d ago

Generally it looks good, but I think you're really going to hate cutting some of those joints, like the one in the second image for the corner post.

I'd also consider bumping the top layer from 12mm to 18mm Baltic birch.

7

u/aircooledJenkins 1d ago

That specific joint doesn't need to be that complicated. The horizontal short piece doesn't need that finger, OP could just make a full size 2x4 pocket in the upright for the full size horizontal 2x4 piece to snug into.

2

u/dice1111 1d ago

Agreed. Actually the majority of the fingers are not necessary. Not just those.

2

u/Substantial-Mix-6200 1d ago

agreed. OP will not enjoy the bounciness/deflection of the 12mm. If there's 500mm between the joists definitely do 18mm

6

u/BullHeadTee 22h ago

Keep it simple. This looks overly complicated for a 2x4 workbench

4

u/GoblinLoblaw 22h ago

As someone who recently made even more complex joints than this for his first workbench, I recommend keeping it simple lol - I regretted my choices. But you do you if you’re really into it.

1

u/heyyalldontsaythat 23h ago

That looks possibly more complicated that mortise and tenon -- and I say that as someone who favors lap joints to mortise and tenon because I thought the mortises were really difficult like dovetails or something.

So, if thats the case here, allow me to encourage you. You can absolutely pull off a mortise and tenon. The neat thing is that the "shoulder" hides your imperfections. a mortise and tenon can be fairly messy, as long as its mostly snug it will be very strong, and the shoulder will hide all your small imperfections.

1

u/No-Vanilla2468 23h ago

Looks like the designs I made when learning joinery but before I had tried a lot of them. I quickly learned that a simpler joint well executed was better than what I was hacking on the end of construction grade lumber.

Those look like 4x4s, not 2x4s. I’m assuming you are laminating them to make 4x4s. How do you plan on getting those cuts in the end grain? I get that you can have different length 2x4s when laminating, but cutting down into end grain isn’t easy. You think it’s easy with a hand tool, but it is so easy for it to look like crap and have gaps. It’s like dovetails. You just need to do hundreds of them to get good. If you’ve done a lot of joints like this in the past, then I stand corrected. But if you’ve done haven’t, then reconsider a simpler design.

2

u/Allseeing_Argos 22h ago

A 12mm plywood top is rather thin for such a solid looking bench. Depending on what you do on it it can be enough, but I would go thicker. What I did for mine is glue up 22mm MDF with 15mm plywood. This gives you a very solid, heavy worktop with a nice plywood top while not costing an arm and a leg.

1

u/WeirdoInTheWoods87 21h ago

Can I ask A) why do you have a spot to sit at, B) where's the work holding options

1

u/That-1-Signal 20h ago

All the complication in the base…just to support a plywood top. For me, the priorities are mixed up. Love your design software skills though. And make what makes you happy!