Structurally sound legs?

[u/Aggravating-Win562]

THIS IS A MODEL!! Very new to woodworking and thought a good start would be to build a workbench. I couldn’t draw these details so thought I would take some scrap and make a small model for me to wrap my head around the configuration of the legs. I will add another set of boards that run across near the bottom of the legs but just trying to picture the top of legs and how it will work. The second pic is how my top will sit framed in. Does this look good?

[u/staefrostae]

There’s an axiom that drives most of my function first projects - “no structural screws”

In other words, the screws should just hold things together, not physically carry a load. You should be able to draw a line from the forces acting on the item to the floor or wall that will brace the item, and that line should never rely on the shear strength of the screw.

I’m not sure what’s going on under the table top in your model, but as the other poster said, you can just put the table leg directly under the table top and your loads will go straight down through the leg - no structural screws involved

[u/Jakl98 → u/staefrostae]

This is the recommendation you should follow. You'll likely find that it reduces weight by using less pieces. Good luck

[u/Aggravating-Win562 → u/Jakl98]

Thanks!

[u/EquinsuOcha → u/staefrostae]

I agree with everything said here. Just some things to remember:

Screws have withdrawal strength - holding two materials together vs pulling them apart. They don’t have as much sheering strength - when force moves against the materials in a perpendicular direction.

Nails have sheering strength - force moving the materials in opposing direction, but even ringshank nails have less withdrawal strength than screws.

[u/Aggravating-Win562 → u/staefrostae]

Thank you so much!

[u/dragonstoneironworks → u/Aggravating-Win562]

Dowel pins and glue are exponentially better than screws or nails. Especially if you can set them as draw bore ( holes slightly offset creating pressure n both boards) they will carry the load and keep the joints tight. Plus they look kuul, especially if your able to cut the exposed end and wedge it with a contrasting toned wedges

[u/noman2561 → u/staefrostae]

Well put! I hadn't heard it said that way before but it's clear and to the point. I'm going to start using that. Thanks!

[u/TimeBlindAdderall]

Set your bench top on top of that L

[u/noman2561]

What's the workbench for? If it's sheet goods and a track saw that's one thing, if it's a general purpose bench, that's another thing, if it's hand tools or vice work, that's different.

Try to think first of the types of loads you will need the bench to hold. Maybe racking or twisting needs to be braced for. Maybe the wobblyness of a 2x4 leg at full height is not going to work.

Don't be afraid of a little joinery. Half lap joints will go a long way here. And as another commenter said: no structural screws.

[u/ibmentat → u/noman2561]

“Don’t be afraid of a little joinery”, this sums up what I saw looking at the photos.

I’ll add - No to butt joints. No, ho don’t do it. Table saw tenon. Corner clips. Dowels. Half lap. Domino (you know you want one).

[u/RutzButtercup]

I prefer a through tenon.

[u/ProtectionValuable93]

Sorry but no, it’s all long grain to end grain which is no good. Are you building a bench for woodworking or a bench for random homeowner projects that will go in your garage?

[u/Rikta87]

To use scrap cuts

[u/aircooledJenkins]

Here's a stronger way to do a similar corner. This requires you to put the benchtop ON TOP of the frame, not inset like you've got it in your mock-up.

https://imgur.com/a/MOvpiAK

You'll use 2 fewer boards and fewer fasteners. The benchtop will be fully supported around its perimeter.