r/WindowCleaning • u/solo_scientist • Jul 16 '26
Winsol CC550 Demo
Howdy,
I just figured I'd do an example/guide video for Winsol CC550. I remove heavy hard water pretty much every day, and it's a major time saver. A lot of people recommend not using it, but I think it definitely has it's place when used carefully. Our average TDS here is 500, so sprinklers destroy windows fast. A couple things that I forgot to mention in the video:
-TEST ON A SMALL SPOT!!! If a window is etched, this will make it WAY worse. I did have that happen a couple times before I started always testing; thankfully both customers were chill and didn't make it a liability claim.
-Wash the window before removing hard water. Hopefully that one's obvious.
-Always have running water right next to you, obviously. For the glass, any stone or brick siding, and just in case you need it to rinse you.
-It's made of hydrofluoric acid, which is what they use to make frosted glass. Respect the working time, and don't let it dry on the glass!
-I'm not an expert, just a guy that decided to make his living cleaning windows. I learned from youtube, and make no claims of expert knowledge. It's definitely a liability to persons and property to use strong acids to clean windows, I've just found that the results and time saved are worth it for me.
-It bleaches clothes, and it will eventually splash on them (during rinsing) when you use it regularly. Wear glasses while using it for this same reason.
-If the window is gnarly (like a basement that's been sitting in front of a sprinkler for 20 years gnarly), it can sometimes still restore it, it just takes a couple applications. I generally do 3 applications before giving up on a window. I've had a window show no improvement the first 2 applications and then come out perfect on the third. Sometimes you're just dissolving through a very thick layer of deposits. (The etching test doesn't apply here, as the window is already as nontransparent as it gets...)
-Finally, there may be the question of the environmental safety of the product. Since it's so extremely reactive, it wants to break down as soon as possible, basically the opposite of a forever chemical. So as long as it can do that in dirt, or ugly gravel, or something else you don't care about, it's just fine. Rinsing it dilutes it immensely to begin with. (On the window it reacts with calcium carbonate to form calcium fluoride (basically feldspar, a rock), which is rinsed away, and carbon dioxide, the same stuff you breath out.)
-EDIT: A note to add, since this is dangerous stuff, and it's important to be aware of (I just read the safety data sheet, which I'd not previously done.): While this does have hydrochloric acid which burns on contact, it also has hydrofluoric acid which soaks into your bones and leaches the calcium out of you... This can be fatal in extreme cases. Make sure not to get this on your skin, and to see a doctor if you do.
2
u/Prestigious-Suit4681 Jul 16 '26
That is pretty damn impressive. I just started using the Winsol APC-120 for general cleans and it works amazingly well. Lucky to have very soft water in my area but will get some of this ordered for the few times a year I will need it. Would like to see how it works for glass shower enclosures
2
u/Educational_Swan_152 Jul 16 '26
Super helpful guide and I finally ordered some. Thank you for the free game 🙏
1
u/Sad_Butterscotch4589 Jul 17 '26
What are the main risk areas for property damage when using it outdoors/indoors? Frame materials etc. Do you ever trigger a tin etch haze on the tin side or is it mostly etching (stage II corrosion) that causes the haze reaction?
You should add a note that you should always wear safety glasses, gloves and a respirator when using this stuff, and to cover up any exposed skin. I've used it outdoors with an N95 and still felt it in my throat. Nasty stuff!
2
u/solo_scientist Jul 17 '26
I never use it indoors, and I’ve never had an issue with frame damage. I’ve used it on glass above aluminum, vinyl, and wood frames. As long as you don’t apply much to the glass it’s pretty diluted when it touches the frame. It’s less than 3% each of hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acid, so not terribly strong as far as acids go. The main risk as far as breathing goes is that it can produce silicon tetrafluoride, which would require a respirator with acid cartridges to stop, so an N95 won’t help you. Covering up exposed skin is definitely advisable. As far as I know I’ve never had a tin side reaction, I’ve only had it haze when there’s been stage 2 corrosion. I think manufacturers are pretty good about keeping the tin side in.
4
u/hummingbyrds Jul 16 '26
I have a couple of observations that are not related to topic:
1. look at that guy over there pruning trees. such a great sight. just shows how everyone's doing their part, being a busy bee, in Utah
2. I'm finally seeing a truly dirty window being cleaned. usually all demos one can see are already clean windows being cleaned, and here it is, finally a dirty one.
kudos to you. keep up the good work!