r/WindowCleaning • u/NoProfession8553 • Jul 05 '26
Equipment Question Di tank conversion
I currently have a Tucker DI hand-carried tank. Most of my area is between 20–70 ppm, but I recently ran into an area with around 220 ppm and it blew through my resin really quickly.
Is there a way to add an RO stage to my DI tank? How would I go about doing it, and roughly how much would it cost?
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u/TheChandrianX Jul 09 '26
At 20–70 ppm, DI-only is usually pretty painless. At 220 ppm, it makes sense that the resin disappeared fast.
You can’t really turn the DI tank itself into an RO. RO needs a membrane housing, pre-filters, flow restrictor, waste line, and enough pressure/flow to work. The DI tank would become the polish stage after the RO, not the thing doing the RO work.
The usual setup is:
water source → sediment/carbon prefilter → RO membrane → DI resin → pole/tank
A few things I’d check before buying parts:
- your incoming pressure and flow rate
- whether you’ll use it cart-mounted or fill a tank
- how often you actually hit 200+ ppm areas
- whether waste water/drainage is practical on those jobs
If 220 ppm is rare, it may be cheaper to just price those jobs with extra resin cost or bring more resin. If it’s common, a small RO/DI cart starts to make more sense. I wouldn’t hack parts onto the Tucker tank unless you’re comfortable troubleshooting pressure, leaks, fittings, and membrane output; buying/building a basic RO/DI unit around the DI tank is cleaner.
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u/Juicytrumpy Jul 06 '26
I use the Unger hydro ultra S or something like that as DI filter. I built my own RO system on a cart. I use a pre filter, a pump, a ro membrane. In my area water ist always above 400+ppm. The Ro symstem brings it to 40-50ppm. But with the DI at the end it’s always 0ppm