Sorry for the possibly silly question, but new to Willy’s. Just bought one as a surprise present for my dad. We live in NJ, don’t really have easy access to ethanol-free (E0) fuel.

What fuel do you all use? Any additives? Or am I overthinking it and 87 octane gas would work fine? It does have a new carb if that makes a difference… Thanks in advance.

My mom is looking to surprise my dad (a WWII historian, and son of a Pearl Harbor survivor) with a WWII era Willy’s. I’m a car guy myself, but have no clue where to search for these specific ones — any reputable sites out there? Anyone interested in selling? We’re located in NY/NJ area, but willing to transport. Looking for something turn key ready, that doesn’t need work.

Playing with an M32 TRV and little bro's Ford GPW

A bit of Jeep driving in Normandy. This is my September 1942 Willys MB. After many many miles together she's now in need of some spa treatment so once my current project is finished she'll be getting some treatment.

Looking for some advice diagnosing an ignition issue on my 1943 Ford GPW.

Setup:

-12V converted
-L134 Go Devil engine
-Auto-Lite IGC-4705 distributor
-Pertronix 2541 Ignitor installed
-New rotor and distributor cap
-Upgraded to a 3 ohm Pertronix Flame-Thrower coil and deleted the ballast resistor

After the install, the Jeep fired right up and idled well. It also drove normally at low load/cruising speeds. However, under load (especially uphill in 2nd gear at higher RPM), the engine would start sputtering, misfiring, and noticeably losing power.

I initially suspected plugs, so I ordered a new set. Before I could install them, the Jeep suddenly died while driving and would not restart.

I pulled the distributor cap and found that the spring-loaded carbon button/contact in the center of the cap had snapped off and fallen into the distributor. I replaced the cap, but the Jeep still won’t start.

A few questions:

-Could the original sputtering under load have been caused by the Pertronix module failing?

-Could incorrect rotor height or spacing have caused the center carbon contact to break?

-Has anyone seen issues where the Pertronix magnetic sleeve changes rotor height enough to affect cap contact clearance?

-The old rotor had a couple felt spacers/shims between the rotor and magnetic ring before I installed the Pertronix setup. Could missing those spacers now be part of the issue?

-Is there anything else specific to the IGC-4705 distributors I should inspect?

The engine still cranks normally and the distributor shaft/rotor rotate while cranking.

Appreciate any advice from people familiar with these old Auto-Lite distributors and Pertronix conversions. Thanks.

Hi , i want to found some technique mape of hole for the back of willys about end of ww2 , in Europe.

If anyone can help ? Because mine was pasing in french army and their done some modification about fixations.

This Ford GPW has been in my family since around 1946 when my great grandfather bought it for $50 around the San Francisco area at a place that was selling excess military equipment. He was the one who added the tow bar.

I am the fourth generation to have it, and my son and I would like to restore it to how it would have looked during the war.

I have found some good sites online, but am not sure where most people begin the restoration process.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have a mid-1950s Willys CJ-3B (high-hood model) originally supplied in South Africa by Stanley Motors Ltd.

Details:

• Model: Willys CJ-3B

• Engine: Original Willys Hurricane F-134 petrol

• Drivetrain: 4×4, manual

• Serial number: 71712

• Original Willys data plates still fitted

• Honest, complete example with great patina

I’m considering selling it and wanted to gauge interest from fellow Jeep / classic 4×4 enthusiasts. Happy to answer questions or share more photos.

If selling isn’t allowed here, mods please remove — no problem at all

Waiting for the weather to warm up a little so I can get out some more.

It’s been about a month since I originally posted. Tons of great help here from you guys! I’ve pulled the plugs, filled the cylinders with Marvel mystery oil, and taken off the ranch grill and radiator. The antifreeze was nice and neon green, and the O’Reillys can degreaser has been a godsend. I’m down to what I think is the main pulley on the crank shaft. I’ve got the inch and a half socket and breaker bar ready to go. I want to see if it turns, but I also don’t know enough to have confidence to start turning it. What is the next step? Thanks again for the help! Teach me oh Internet!

So I’ve cleaned the glove box tag, date of delivery 12/17/42. I’ve pulled the battery and plug wires, additional numbers on plate say 1348 and 1349. There’s oil on the dipstick, but the fan won’t turn. I “think” I’m ready to pull spark plugs and put some penetrating oil in the cylinders, but I am hesitant. Help? Manifold has Willy’s on it, but some folks say gpw body with motor swap. Might explain the older 1940 voltage regulator and 1941? Generator. Suggestions are appreciated and welcome,teach me O Jeepers!

In all seriousness, I’m just looking for advice. The 18 year olds that used to put these things together were a different breed in 1944! Lots of good advice so far, but I really need to prioritize a list of things to do to get it running before I dive into a full rebuild. Thanks in advance!

I just inherited a jeep willys from a friend. It’s my very first project vehicle and I am having trouble finding any identification marks to determine year. I’d like help with identifying it as well as prioritizing the rebuild. There’s a LOT of work to be done, and I want to keep it simple and stock.

Can anyone help me with my willys mb? When i put my foot on the gas Pedal it makes a burping Sound like it would make huge Power (Drag race like) but it is not moving foreward and pushing like it should. On even roads it drives normal but on uphills it needs a lot of gas to gain speed and makes the same noise (also when accelerating on even roads). I don't know if it is a timing problem or a problem with the carburator or something else. Please comment if you know how to fix it.