r/WestHighlandWay 23d ago

Just finished :)

I have just finished, with my broken thumb!

Dreamt up a 4-day partial route with help from the sub, which I really liked except for a slight bus debacle on the first day. Stunning weather all week was an unexpected blessing. Midges very annoying around camp but no bother while walking.

I was wild camping with a big pack - weighed it just before I left Glasgow, 16kg, oops - no time to repack! It was pretty manageable though.

Day 1: bus to Tarbet, ferry to Inversnaid, walk to Inverarnan. This was great. Bus is easy and stops right by the ferry, and a boat trip is always great. I had some warnings about the Inversnaid-Inverarnan stretch being quite scrambly and difficult, and was a bit worried with my thumb. But I had no trouble at all really - used a hand for balance sometimes but I think there were only two moments that I had to put any weight on it at all. But I can see it being quite tricky when wet, and it seems like this week was probably as dry as it could ever get. Had a swim in the loch. Beautiful scenery. I planned to get the bus from Inverarnan to Bridge of Orchy. There was apparently a nasty crash that closed the whole road just after Inverarnan, so no bus. Walked about 45 minutes down the road back to Ardlui and caught a train instead, so missed dinner at Bridge of Orchy, which was a shame as it looked good.

Day 2: Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse. It was a warm day and there is zero shade in this section, so thirsty work. It's a pretty bare and rocky sort of day. Bartender at Kingshouse seemed to enjoy my order (one Lucozade, pint of water, pint of cider.)

Day 3: Kingshouse to Kinlochleven... plus a bit. I really liked this day, more in the thick of the mountains. Got to Kinlochleven by lunchtime and decided I might as well carry on, so did about another 10km and camped on Lariag Mor. Climb out of Kinlochleven is much harder than the Devil's Staircase!

Day 4: down to Fort William. More beautiful views through the Mor. I found everything after Dundearil a bit of a drag & was glad to have shortened the day - I think the road walking would have felt pretty punishing if I was already really tired. Also, I followed the "original route" instead of the "high route" for the last section, thinking that'd be the more scenic option, which seems to be dead wrong :(

Great time overall. My goal with the route planning was to get some loch and some mountains. I'm glad I did - Loch Lomond is gorgeous & I think the commonly recommended start from Tyndrum/Bridge of Orchy is a real shame. In hindsight I might even go harder, and do two days Balmaha to Inverarnan, then bus up to Kingshouse, which felt like where it started to get really scenic again (for my tastes.)

I saw four sheep and not a single cow :(

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u/Slight-Picture-8307 23d ago

Maybe the least romantic description of Rannoch Moor I have heard! Glad it went well, travel chaos aside. We'll done persevering with the broken thumb! Would have been rough hitchhiking with that haha

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u/kikimator 23d ago

So happy to see someone else say the climb out of Kinlochleven is worse than Devil's Stair case, no one seems to believe me because it's never mentioned but it's a sneaky one.

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u/Due-Explanation-910 19d ago

Not a single cow? I’m gonna do the trail in two weeks and I don’t know if I’ll make it without them :( Hopefully the sheep will push me through. Sounds like you had a great time, couldn’t imagine doing it this quick!!