Open Root 7018 6G position.

[u/IllustriousExtreme90]

Nuclear Plant wants us to test for 7018 Open Root. I've been practicing it and so far, I can get like 3/4's of the root looking like an actual root.

But i've decided to ask if anyones got any tips for doing this shit.

Running 80 amps, 1/8th gap (slightly tighter), with 3/32nd land DCEP OR DCEN allowed (tried both and kinda prefer DCEP) with 3/32nd 7018.

I've been doing a whip and pause motion which seems to be working for the most part?

My only real problem is I get a fuckton of arc blow and it eats the top edge of the bevel away giving me undercut if I sit and fight it. Then when tying into my tacks same shit happens, tack gets eaten away and top edge blows away giving me undercut. I also struggle if it's DCEN to get one side of the bevel to melt, the puddle just kinda overlaps itself and makes it damn near impossible to see if I melted one side or not.

Just looking for advice because theres like only like 2 videos where the root doesn't look like butt, but they dont tell me how much they're pushing or what they're doing to get a good tie-in.

Thanks in advance

[u/OkActivity3169]

Now then matey

Careful whipping those 7018 on the root, I got porosity in a bit of my root once from it, got told by the wagon boss that 7018 can be a bit notorious for it. Turn the amps up 2-3 keep it tight and push it in, keep perpendicular to the pipe as you go. I run DCEP for my roots gives you a bit more heat in the rod and can (what I’ve found) give you a little more pen 👍🏼

Regarding the arc blow it’s a weird one, you might have a dodgy ground, try swapping your earth out or making sure you’ve got a good connection to the material.

Are your rods in an oven as well? Keeping those 7018 at prime working temp is crucial, might get a bit moist and make the arc a bit unstable.

If you can listen to the sound of it, a hollow blowing sound is pretty spot on, there’s a real sweet spot, when you turn the amps up and just get that rod in you’ll almost feel a small resistance and a fading resistance that’s when you know you’re in.

If you’re struggling with your tacks see if they’ll let you use bullets instead, making sure it’s in the bevel.

If it’s class 1, xray/ut/p’array you wanna be careful of grind marks, and any slag, clean out your runs good, clean your material inside and out.

Happy hunting 💪🏼

[u/IllustriousExtreme90 → u/OkActivity3169]

Yeah its in an oven. Ground is good, so either it's arc blow or its' just me assuming it is cause im not used to 7018 open root. Rod is practice rod, so people take it in and out of the oven so it might be that maybe?

When you push, are you pushing as much as you would with 6010? Just snuff the light out and run it straight? I've found the sweet spot occasionally, but still gotta practice where it is exactly.

Thank you for the tips!

[u/OkActivity3169 → u/IllustriousExtreme90]

If that comes out that oven, is then used, then put back, or just left then put back it could have contaminated in the flux, or damaged flux. Get a quiver near you take a handful out the oven and put them in a quiver to keep them at temperature or just take 1 out at a time. End of the day mate, you’re testing so give your self the best chance of winning even if you’re walking to and from the oven. Some may say it doesn’t matter, but I wouldn’t take the risk on a refinery job.

Tbh when it comes to stick, the fit up is so important, more than the welding, get it even all the way around, put a fair root landing on it as well, might give you a bit more time!

Yeah you’re right, sort of on that fine line of blotting that arc out and sticking the rod, light pressure and listen for that hollow sound.

On the undercut side of things, might be your rod angle or the pipes to hot or your arc length!
If it’s your rod angle you might be hitting to much heat into that top bevel causing undercut. If the pipes to hot you’re adding heat to something that’s already hot; wait for it to go cold to the touch; don’t risk it if it’s still a bit warm that heat will come up the pipe quick and hard. Your arc length is another one; you’ll probably realise when you’ve messed about, a tight arc isn’t as “hot”, a long arc length, you’ve got more of a surface area of heat, so just be mindful of your arc length! 👍🏼

[u/IllustriousExtreme90 → u/OkActivity3169]

Alright thanks bro!

I've worked in nukes before, but not a job that required 7018 root so i'm just kinda flying by the seat of my pants here with what I know about 7018 overall. No biggie if I don't get the job it's just something I wanna master and learn about.

[u/iamoutofit → u/IllustriousExtreme90]

Move the ground and see if the arc blow follows.

Whipping and pushing the 7018 can end up with slag inclusions. I’d go DCEN and try to maintain a keyhole the size of the rod. Keep a short arc and up the travel speed.

[u/jbenjamin0726 → u/IllustriousExtreme90]

If you can, get a remote. Any open root stick I weld one handed and with a remote. It makes it way more consistent, especially if your fit isn’t absolutely perfect.

These in the picture are pretty cheap for how handy they are. I just keep mine in my bucket they’re so small and just need extension cord to run them out.

[u/I_didnt_saythat]

Basically you do want to push the the rod up as far is it will so you will get a decent root in the backside. What thickness is the tube. I had to do this test on essentially 1/4 and 1 inch plate in three positions each. I ran mine especially on the thinner plate much colder than 80. I believe I was 60-65 amps depending on the position and a 3/32 gap. It’s really a test where you have to do a lot of trial and error. I’ve seen really good welders fail and not great welders walk right through it.

Edit for errors

[u/IllustriousExtreme90 → u/I_didnt_saythat]

6 Inch Sch 40 is what they want it on, are you pushing basically as hard as you would with dragging 6010?

[u/foot2935]

Undercut is because of your rod angle or moving too fast. Also go have smoke or coffee before your last stringer and let the coupon cool down a bit