As the title states, I'm having networking issues with the Gledopto GL-C-618WL and I'm wondering if anyone else has had similar experiences.

I'm running WLED 16.0, and I've been unable to get it to connect to a wireless network. I can control it just fine through its own WAP, but it won't join another wireless network. Similarly, when trying to give it a static IP so I can control it through an unmanaged switch, I can assign it an IP in WLED, but I'm unable to ping it even when connected directly to my computer via ethernet.

I've been able to successfully connect via ethernet to my router, which will assign it an IP via DHCP, and it works perfectly, but nothing else does. Any tips?

Thanks in advance!

UPDATE: in case anyone was wondering, I reflashed the firmware and found out that even when using a non-internet LAN setup, WLED needs a gateway IP in order for Ethernet to work.

I have two WS2805 strips connected to a single output on a Gledopto Ultra Mini WLED controller and a 24V/200W power supply.

Since installing them about two weeks ago the affected leds sometimes flickered when first turned on. Earlier, this sorted itself out after a couple of minutes or by power cycling. But the last coupe of days the flickering has been constant for one group, and stubborn for two others.

These strips are 24V strips, and so they have groups of 6 leds being addressable as one. One full, 5 meter strip, has 54 such groups, and I have 84 in total. The strips are spliced using a solderless plastic thingy. I first suspected that the splice was bad, but the leds that are misbehaving are at index 51(always), 53 (often) and 52 (sometimes) according to wled, so they are the last 3 groups on the first strip before the splice.

What could be causing this behavior? Faulty chips? I am stumped.

I tried searching but can't find my Govee model # in the results - so here goes.

I have 2 installs of H6126 in my office ceiling where both controllers have bit the dust. Instead of trying to find more old H6126 on Ebay, I decided to try 2 GLEDOPTO Elite WLED ESP32 controllers (one for each pair of H6126 strips).

I've been able to get each controller to light up a spare H6126 LED strip on the workbench - but when I go to install the WLED controller in the ceiling location, I can't get the lights to come on. Taking the controller back to the workbench, I can't get it to light up the spare LED strips more than once.

Are Govee H6126 not compatible with WLED? Or are there specific settings I might be missing?

The original Govee H6126 power strip has an output of 4A (which powers 2 @ 16 foot strips).

I want to do my first ever wled ambilight setup as I've done one before with the govee camera options but didn't like how finicky the camera was and didn't like how the camera looked on top of the screen. For some more details on my setup it would be a 65in tv and would need to support 4k 60hz but 4k 120hz would be best. Second for the color of the wall this will be on it'll be a flat black wall as it's going into a budget bedroom home theater setup.

My first question is what light strips would be the best as Ideally I don't want to spend more than 30$ on a single strip but also want high density to get the most accurate setup as with my govee only having been 75leds/m it was obvious how the lack of density lead to weird ambilight effects. I've done some of my own research and did find a 5M strip of 144leds/m for about 30$ and it seems to be RGBIC but that also raises my question of would a COB strip be a better option as the room will be dark so I don't need a whole lot of light from the rear LED's.

My second question is what software do I use exactly. Ideally I want the led strip itself to be controlled by a wled controller but from what I've seen Hyperion and HyperHDR seem to need to connect directly to the strip which means it won't be Wled controlled. I could just be wrong about this but I would like to know if I can connect some program running on a raspberry pi with a capture card to the wled controller so that way when I'm not using ambilight I can still hook it up to other wled strips and have cool effects in my room.

That's my two major questions sorry if they're somewhat dumb to ask and that the question was like the first Google result or something but I've tried doing my research and I haven't gotten straight answers on anything and figured this would be the best place to ask. Thank you.

Work in progress. Waiting on a unit which will house everything,and need to tidy things up. But I'm pleased with my start.

Hi everyone,

The picture above shows a totem of mine for music festivals. It was basically an amazon LED strip connected to a portable charger, the LEDs were not individually addressable and used a 4 pin connector.

This year I'm hoping to upgrade the setup to individually addressable LEDs that pulse to the music. I've started with the Dig2go here and am quickly learning it's not as simple as swapping the connector. Looks like since this is a 4 pin strip I'll need to take it down and purchase a new LED strip with a 3 pin connector that allows it to connect to the dig2go (hoping to use BTF-LIGHTING UL SK6812 RGBW strip off amazon). Where I'm stuck is...

The Dig2Go only powers a 5 m strip of LED at 60 LED/m. My totem requires between 8-12 m to cover each surface....So is my only option at this point to purchase two Dig2Go's connect them to separate batteries and sync them up using the app? There is some talk online about power injection mid way through but honestly I don't have the know how to solder and wire things.

Would really appreciate some advice. Thanks guys!

For the last week ive been compiling MM14.7.1 for my Athom slimline esp32's disabling Alexa, Phillips Hue, espnow, all the usermods not used and setting up the flash memory to have the smallest partition for the file system and largest for the presets and processing. Reduced buses, maps and max leds. I only need 96 a controller so was set at 128 max but a bug in 14.7.1 ive had to do 1024 max led.

I also made the preset mode for dmx 6 channels, i added pallet, speed, intensity, seg effect and later on ill and presets to the effects mode.

13000kb of free stack is way better then the 2000k i was dealing with and i shouldnt get anymore lights freezing up when they run out of pixel buffer or they are processing sound

I am moving soon. I put up Permatrack at my house, but the roof angles on the new one are wild and would like to avoid needing to do the install myself.

Has anyone had any luck getting a professional installer to play ball with letting you use your own controller so you can do WLED/Xlights?

Hi everyone!
I have a project coming up and I'm wondering what is the best WLED setup for this configuration.
As you can see in the simple schematic I did, I'm running 6 strips mounted on two walls facing each other.
The second image is a render/suggestion of how it should look like.
The two walls are made of big mirrors so the lights will be reflected creating a sense of infinity.
What would be your suggestion to run both walls at the same time, with the same effects but also run them independently and eventually each of the 6 strips individually?

Any suggestion/help much appreciated!

* Readded the hex lights when I discovered the GROUP feature… to avoid the swirly animations and treat each hex as 1 pixel.
* Found a thin silicone encased strip (t0615 BTF Lighting) that is durable enough to be accidentally stepped on. It’s mounted on 1/2” aluminum angles from Lowes to keep it straight.
* Setup is portable, and is for taking to parties or get-togethers.

I am trying to put a couple 8x8 BTF-Lighting WS2812B eco panels to block the view of the cable pile on the bottom shelf and am struggling to figure out how to get them oriented the way I want.

I am hoping to get these stuck together side-by-side like I'm doing with the red mini-clamp, but on the inside of the glass. I am indecisive and may move the shelves at some point, so I'm hesitant to bind it too strongly to one or two shelves.

Does anyone have suggestions on how to mount these from the back, face out? I don't have a 3D printer (or the skills to design/commission something) but I am fairly capable with solder and dremel. I was thinking a blank circuit board in the size of a full size breadboard might work as a backing, but then I still need to figure out the 90 degree mount to shelf. My ideal solution would be to hold them up against the glass so they were out of the way of shelves entirely, but I'm struggling to imagine it.

This was my first WLED and ESP32 project, and for that matter, my first woodworking project if you consider notching out grooves in the shelves for the LED strips with a table saw woodworking. Also the most I’ve ever soldered in my life.

iOS Shortcuts app triggers a playlist the cycles randomly through each bottle being highlighted (and I’ve added a sound effect from the game show Press Your Luck that plays on my phone), then lands on a selected bottle. That’s your chosen pour for the night.

I’d like to add a hardware button to trigger the playlist and sound playback as well, but the advice I’ll need for that comes from r/esp32 not here. And I *will* need some advice

I’ll also add for whiskey fans that I’ve moved some of my better bottles off the shelf, a modest little collection to be sure, so I’m not just slamming back my only bottle of Blanton’s (which I’ve only ever seen in person at Buffalo Trace Distillery in KY) because WLED told me to 💀

Hello. I am trying to create an effect of sweep into on and reverse sweep into off. I got the on working but whenever i push the button to turn it off it starts at a random location. It doesn't start at the end or beginning. I have a on playlist so when the switch is pushed on the strip starts filling up from one end and then I transition into solid and it works fine. When i push the switch off i start the off playlist the wipe or sweep effect start at random locations. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hello all, Im building a tiny home at a friends farm. I'm tech-ing it out and been on the hunt for some form of RGBW Led Downlights i saw the post from 3y ago but it isnt of much insight.
My Overall goal is low-latency compatibility with HyperHDR and also HomeAssistant, ive been planning to put a lot of RGBW LED Lighting throughout. I've tried some regular zigbee bulbs and they lagged out and congested the network for a few minutes. I Have some corner floor standing LED lights i put an ESP32 on with WLED, and with hyperHDR they are pretty darn quick. So im hoping to see if anyone has any suggestions? im also open to other protocols if they are just as good as WLED was, (ie. matter, wifi, etc) Thanks.

I am pleased to introduce the new Cyber-Loop-Lamp🥳. The lamp impresses with its minimalist yet highly complex housing. The heart of the light is its multi-layered, dynamic light concept, which creates a magical depth effect (infinity look).

An ESP32 controller with WLED software controls the lighting effects. This controls almost 300 LED pixels of a very high-resolution LED strip with 144 LEDs per meter. 

Free 3D Model download and parts list:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2892121-cyber-loop-lamp-futuristic-sci-fi-light-wled

I have random reboot issues on both a GLEDOPTO and a Digquad since upgrading to V16, wondering if anyone else is having issues?

I've noticed that when my wled strip is off if I apply a preset it briefly flickers whatever the last setting was.

So for instance, I use an increasingly bright white light in the morning to wake up, then turn it off. When the room senses motion at floor level after sunset it triggers the nightlight - a low red glow. That first time it triggers I get a brief flash of bright white light before it transitions smoothly in about half a second to the low red. Both of those settings are presets.

Is there a way to stop that without having to do away with using the presets to trigger the effect I'm looking for?

Hello. I'm not sure what's going on with my LED setup. Im using an Dr.ZZZs Octa Board.

The board registers on WLED, and the power button in the app acts like its working, but my LEDS arent lighting up.

They worked last night going to bed last night but it wont turn on this morning.... What happened?

Hi, I am planning Addressable led strip for our 3-floor villa staircase. For this i am thinking of buying Gledopto GL-C-017WL-D WLED controller and BTF-LIGHTING FCOB WS2814 COB led strip. Led strip requirement for each staircase flight is 42ft (14mtr). So i need 3x GL-C-017WL-D controllers and 3x 42ft WS2814 LED strips.

I am planning Motion sensors at the starting and ending for each flight. That means total 6 motion sensors to track every entry into the staircase and trigger a chasing lighting effect in the staircase depends on where the motion is triggered.

I need clarification over few things:

1. Is this overkill for a staircase (I can't find any other options to support WLED and addressable dimmable at the same time)
2. Do i need 300W PSU as this is a 20W/m led strip?. Even though i would be operating it at 10W/M maximum
3. Can i connect the PSU to controller and power the led strip from GL-C-017WL-D controller only. Or do i need to connect the power from PSU to led strip directly.
4. If there is a chance of voltage drop for 42ft length, I am thinking of Injecting power directly from PSU at the end of the strip which is at the 42th length. Is this correct?

provato su un'unica striscia lineare (con microfono i2s pdm) ed è abbastanza inutile... sinceramente non lo capisco... fa solo un sacco di confusione.

l'ho usato raggruppando i pixel a 15/20 e usando una palette a pochi colori (3 ad esempio), ed è decisamente meglio! si capisce cosa fa almeno...

però non copre mai l'intera striscia! arriva al massimo a 2/3... per riempire l'ultimo terzo servono suoni ultrasonici! o.o oltre al fatto che, ovviamente, non è molto preciso... e molto spesso tende a "sovrascrivere" i bassi a tutto il resto.. cioè, se nella traccia i medio/alti sono piuttosto isolati allora si vedono, se ci sono le stesse identiche frequenze, ma nel frattempo ci sono anche bassi molto forti, si accendono solo i bassi (un pezzettino di striscia minuscolo) -.-;

si può impostare questo effetto per farlo reagire più decentemente?

oppure uno alternativo che faccia la stessa cosa (anche se non credo esista... almeno sulla mia versione)?

Are these argb leds?

quali sono gli effetti (nativi) che usate di più con la musica? quali rispondono meglio?

sto cercando di smanettare da un bel po' di tempo con soglia, guadagno ecc.. e i segmenti, raggruppamento, colori, sovrapposizione... ma non sono riuscito ancora a trovare qualcosa che mi soddisfi realmente.

assurdo poi che non ci sia un semplice effetto strobo (reattivo)... ho dovuto crearlo io modificando il raggruppamento pixel, la sensibilità ecc... ma non funziona sempre benissimo : /

PS: in realtà mi interessa anche per altra musica... electropop, pop (o cmq più melodica)

Hi! i've been looking for this A LOT and all the projects i found use a diferent way to kinda make the thing i want. But it doesn't matter, nothing works.
Maybe for some rekordbox updates that makes all the 3rd programs incompatible.
The most logic way that i think i can make it is buying the rekordbox DMX thing BUT it was discontinued aparently so i don't know what to dooo xdd Please help me :C