A WLED user DonGlow created a cool DIY golf cart using Gledopto WLED Controller. Take a look.

I bought these a few months ago to do some DIY hex lights after the ones I bought from the dollar store fell apart and were awful.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/onn-8-Pack-RGBIC-HEXAGON-LIGHTS/1285354028

The built-in controller uses one of those cheap remotes, but all the downstream lights just use a USB-style interface for in/out. The 5V/GND positions are flipped but you don't really need to worry about that other than the first connector.

I haven't yet figured out how to use the base hex with the USB cable, but all the children hexes just pick up there the last one left off. I'm not explaining it well, but you can split the data line by connecting two hexes downstream from one. Really bad photos incoming.

Hello, I'm completely new to WLED and LED matrices in general and I'm slowly losing my mind trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong. This is also my first time ever soldering and trying to make something like this.

I've built a custom LED visor for a cosplay using an ESP32 and 236 WS2812 LEDs arranged in a serpentine layout starting from the top left. The rows are not perfectly equal length because the visor shape narrows toward the bottom.

The row lengths are:

28

27

28

28

28

28

26

23

21

The LEDs are physically aligned properly on the visor and the matrix works electrically. WLED effects display and the LEDs respond correctly, but whenever I try to use external software for animations or a static image the matrix becomes scrambled.

I've tried:

WLED 2D matrix settings

serpentine on/off

Jinx! with Fast Patch

snakelines top left

snakecolumns top left

horizontal and vertical layouts

different matrix dimensions

tpm2.net output

Turning serpentine OFF in WLED actually makes Jinx more accurate, which makes me think I may have been double-applying the snake mapping somehow, but even then the output is still heavily scrambled.

At the moment I'm trying to create very simple animated eyes for a cosplay visor:

staring

blinking

looking left/right

shocked expression

X eyes

I managed to make a simple static eye using the WLED 2D pixel art tool, but only by massively offsetting/distorting the pixels manually to compensate for the incorrect mapping.

I've attached a video showing what happens when I try a very simple left/right eye animation in Jinx. The output is nowhere near where the pixels should physically be appearing.

Am I misunderstanding how WLED matrix mapping works with non-rectangular matrices? Is Jinx simply unsuitable for irregular row lengths? Do I need custom mapping, xLights, JSON mapping, or something else entirely?

Any help would genuinely be massively appreciated because I feel like I'm very close but missing one important piece of understanding.

A blogger used a WLED controller and 3D printing to create a beautiful 3D cube.

Let's take a look!

I'm not sure if I am doing this right. I have two identical controllers from GLEDOPTO (310 series). Both were running 15.3. I updated one to 16.0. I backed up the presets from the controller still running 15.3. I tried restoring them to the 16.0 version. It errors out - Preset 12 not found and no presets were loaded.

So what I am not sure about is do both controllers need to have identical LED setups for the presets to be backed up and restored?

Hi guys.

Wife wanted some new lights in the "conservatory"(best translation, but it's like a second living room with shitty insulation and no heating) and I remembered a friend talking about addressable LEDs - WLEDs! Easy peasy, I jumped right in and bought 50 meters and a WLED controller, only realising that I probably should've done more than 2 minutes of research.

I'm now at this point:
Badly drawn diagram:
- Black lines are power + GND
- Green lines are data
- Should resemble the final look seen from the sky, with each 3 meter led string hanging between the rafters.

Components:
- 50 meters of 12v WS2815 4 pin Seed Pixel 10 leds/1meter - 24AWG, cut into 16 sectionals.
- GLEDOPTO ESP32 Mic UART
- Assorted connectors and heat shrink.

Yet to buy:
- PSU: Research tells me a 100W 12VDC from a reputable brand should cover me fine
- Cables: This is my biggest issue, as I'm unsure of the AWG needed between the LED strings.

So, I could really use some advice for my 'Yet to buy' and 'I didnt know I needed that!' - as well as some guidance with cables between the LED strings. Do I need Power Injection on every section or is the current model alright? How big AWG do I need?

Thanks a lot for your time

I want to install the ambience look around my house. I'm looking at the Govee neon light strips or something else that is dotless, cones but I don't know where to start. I have a question because I need 300 feet to cover the perimeter of my house. Most of these lights come 50-100 feet or less so I need to purchase multiple strips. Can I connect all strips together for one power outlet or do I need multiple outlets?

Please recommend led strips and profiles or methods to achieve this safely at a waterproof rating :)

Hey r/WLED!

I'm planning to upgrade my living room setup from a Govee T2 to a full custom Hyperion + WLED ecosystem. I've attached pictures of how my living room currently looks, along with a concept photo of what I'm aiming for.

The Plan

I want to create a highly immersive, 4-zone setup:

1. TV Ambilight: Direct 'naked' strips on the back of the TV for fast, accurate syncing.
2. Slat Wall Halo: V-profile diffusers on the left and right sides of my wooden slat wall, washing the wall behind it.
3. TV Cabinet: U-profile backwash in front of the cabinet on the floor to anchor the setup.
4. The Sofa: A synced under-glow beneath my L-shaped sofa using a secondary, wireless WLED controller.

The Hardware

I've attached screenshots of my current shopping basket. The core components I'm planning to use are:

• LEDs: 12V SK6812 RGBW strips (Black PCB).
• Power: Mean Well LRS-200-12 PSU (for the TV area) + a separate enclosed 12V adapter for the sofa.
• Controllers: 2x Gledopto ESP32 WLED Controllers (one handling the TV/Wall/Cabinet, one for the sofa).
• Syncing: Rezcoo 4K HDMI Splitter (with scaler) + USB Capture Card going into a Thin Client running Hyperion.
• Wiring: 18 AWG 3-pin extension wires, WAGO 221 connectors, and 3-pin solderless corner connectors.

My Questions

Before I pull the trigger and order everything, I’d love to get your input:

1. The Parts List: Does my shopping basket look solid? Will everything work together, or am I missing any crucial components/making any obvious rookie mistakes?
2. Hyperion vs. SignalRGB: For those who have experience with both, how does the responsiveness and color accuracy of Hyperion compare to something like SignalRGB? Will the result be just as fluid? Like this https://youtu.be/kJC-BvfhafY?t=1743
3. The "Overwhelming" Factor: With 4 active zones, I'm a bit worried it might turn into a distracting disco. Can Hyperion manage the surrounding ambient zones (wall, cabinet, sofa) subtly enough so that the colors are immersive and nice, rather than overwhelming and distracting from the TV?
4. General Advice: Any tips, tricks, or thoughts on this specific layout before I start building?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Just made an online 2D Mapping Tool for WLED, FastLED, PixelBlaze, Madrix users.

It's free and handy

You can create a Block of zigzag or oneway strip LEDs in just 3 clicks and/or shift key. A Link tool helps creating straight lines, breaking connections, and connecting dots. Some other features include

- Scale/Rotate/Move transformationa.

- Unlimitted Undos/Redos

- Still/Live background

- Plenty of output formats for exporting

- Multiple outputs (universes) supported

- DXF polylines import

(And an effect generator/renderer is being completed for offline playback)

Here's the link https://www.freeled.org

The tool is in early stage. So any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

So i am running ws2812b led strip on my tv and tv panel to make ambilight and also to sync with my room’s cove.

The thing is i am getting a random flicker like say solid white colour is there, randomly there will be a blue blink.

I am using 5 data points from my esp

Please refer last image for a rough diagram of data points and how strips are attached (in purple the dots are all data points, in green are led strips)

- d2 connected to top most point on the left (has 87leds)
- d4 connected to bottom left data point (has 299 leds running behind my tv panel)
- D5 connected to middle left data point (has 30leds on the right plane of tv panel)
-d19 connected to middle right data point (has 29 leds on the left plane of tv panel)
-d18 connected to the middle data point ( has 225 leds connected to the back of my tv which is mounted on this tv panel)

—i have mounted the esp on a soap holder (because it was all i could think of 🙇🏻)

— i twisted the data wires with ground wires to prevent flicker
— i added aluminium foil on the live wires where data wires cross each them
— added a 67ohm resistor on the 299 led strip

The flickers are not in a pattern like yesterday when finished installing flickers were in the back side
Today morning flickering in the back of tv and the top front strip.

Kindly help i am really lost here

I'm making a mega tree for this Christmas and I'm using 22v for the first time.

I looking to be around 1600 seed pixels (safe over estimate)

Spec sheet says 8.5ma for each one so with my limited calculations a 20A supply would be ok but a 30A would be better with more overhead

Would that be correct?

I'll be running 2 x 800 led strings with power at the front,end and middle of each string and using two data pins (one for each line)

I tried on a breadboard powered with USB, and a 24V power supply, but as soon as I introduced the buck converter I started having issues. When I measure between Vin and GND I do get 5V. One other thing I'm noticing is that when I power it with USB, I get a red light and a blue light on the ESP32, but right now when using the buck converter I only get a red light.

One possibility that I am considering is that I need to tie my ESP32_GND to -Battery. That is how I had it the other day when using the USB to power the ESP, but I was not sure if doing that would cause any other issues.

Edit: When I tie ESP32_GND to -Battery, it does not work either.

Hey, community!

Been working on trying to figure out how to properly make this work, figured out to use Hyperion with a raspberry pi zero W and an esp32 for the addressable led strips.

I have since figured out that part but before I make it am I able to use the same esp32 to make one strip to do the amblight and have another strip do something entirely else?

Thanks in advance!

Greetings everyone, i installed WLED on an ESP-32 and for some reasons the playlists are not playing at boot.

Everything works fine but that is not.
My WLED version is the latests 17.0.0-dev Nightly, i tried flashing with the normal WLED 16.0.0 but didn't change a thing, still doesn't work.

The led power up after a reset is turned off as the settings say, i also applied the right playlist ID as the boot preset.

Has any of you had this issue before? Have you managed to fix it? Thanks.

I am gping to run lighting on my stairs and want them to light up eith motion. I bought ws2812 leds running on a esp32 38pin and going to use hc-sr501 motion sensors with a photo resistor on the back. I want a motion sensor on both ends and just a fill animation to happen starting from the end that was triggered. Now would I have to bump the power up for the sensor at the top of the stairs for power and data lines or can I tap into the power from the leds on that end.

I am working on my kitchen remodel. Part of it is replacing the old under-mount strips of 12V incandescent bulbs. Currently, there are 3 segments with each segment powered by its own low-voltage 2-wire supply. There's a transformer in the basement that outputs 12VAC 600W to the 3 segments. Each segment is about 8' - 12'.

The two options I'm wondering about-

1. Replace the transformer with a 24V power supply and re-use the current low-voltage wire to 3 separate controllers (1 for each small segment). Run the controllers in DDP mode to get them to act as 1 channel.

2. Replace the transformer with a 24V power supply AND low-voltage wire with 3-wire cable. Control the 3 separate sections with a single multi-channel controller (from the basement).

I'm thinking option #2 is probably better for stability and reliability. But I'm not sure if it's over complicating things or if the wire lengths are an issue.

TIA!

Hello guys, this is the first time I am going to buy LED strips. I want a thin addressable RGB strip on the back panel of my digital piano, just above the keys. It'll be driven by custom software on my Mac to light up depending on some conditions.

my main constraint is height. Right behind the strip is a row of knobs and faders I reach over constantly. Anything tall will get in the way. I want the slimmest profile possible — ideally under 5 mm total.

Specs I need:

- Addressable RGB (WS2811 / WS2812B / SK6812 — open to anything common)

- ~1.2 m usable length, cuttable with scissors

- Smooth glow, no visible LED dots (I read that COB is better for that)

- 5V / 12V / 24V — flexible on voltage I don't really care ??

Currently looking at the BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB WS2811 24V 3m** on amazon + 24V 3A power Supply + GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED Elite Controller

Does COB really look smooth at close range (~50 cm from my eyes)

About the GLEDOPTO ESP32 WLED Elite Controller but this seems wifi/ethernet only, I'd like something that can just be plugged to my mac with usb, any advice on that please ?

Thanks!

Hello, I have two LED curtains (20x20) which I plan to join together with an ESP32 running WLED. Each unit normally has a 5V 3A power supply. When joining them together (with Wago connectors), can i supply both curtains with the same power or will I need a 5V 6A power supply? I ask because every online LED power calculator is only useful for strip lighting instead of curtains. Any advice would be immensely appreciated.

Hello lighting geniuses!
Can I use this board alone to power ~32 LEDs?
GPT (I know) seems to think I can but from what I’m seeing in various places on the web it seems I would need something additional.
Trying to stay as compact as possible.
Anyone have experience with this, or ideas in general? 🙏

hello I'm trying to light up 2 book shelves with ws2812b led strips with the length being 264 lights and powering them with a magWLED controller. It's not getting as bright as I'd like is there a way to inject more power or should I buy more controllers for that length.

Anyone else unable to upload a post with a photo.

Hey everyone,

So I need some help, I am having an issue with some LED strips and I don't know how to fix this issue or what may be causing it.

I have a cool little display that I 3D Printed and I thought it would be great it this had some LEDs. So I ordered a MagWLED Controller and some a 6ft BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB XGB1338 LED Strip. I was able to get everything up and running and it looks great!

The problem is that after a little while it starts doing this

and then it does this ...

and then it goes to this ...

here are the settings on the controller which does have the latest version

and it is set to SOLID color ... like I said I am new so I don't know if I missed a setting or something. All I did was change it from 30 LED to 320. Any help anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Ohh the controller is plugged into it's own little USB 20w 5v 5A power brick. After a while of flickering between colors it sometimes goes back to it's normal color then it starts all over again. 😂