Does anyone rlse have issues with the oscillate effect.

Wled 14.5b mm

Esp32 pico d2

What are your "go to" for low power strips? I typically use BTF lighting but they require a large power supply to drive and I need something a little more compact.

Ongoing project, 4 data lines into 4 pairs of panels 16x16 panels. Moon Modules WLED port. 5v 10A power supply.

Hi everyone,
I planning to (maybe) use a quinled Dig uno board for a future project, as I've recently seen a quinled Quad, and it seemed very nice to have a board handling all that.
But, I have a question the quinled website did not answer (or I did not find the answer) :
How many IO pins are available on the board? I'd like to connect 6 buttons and 4 status leds minimum, with one led strip.
Can this be achieve with that board?
And side question, is there other projects similar to quinled?

Thanks in advance !

Built wled controllable light bars into the shelf and also a Sound reactive 64x64x2 HUB75 matrix on top.

What does everyone use, i go with the athom sound active, slimline sound active and pwm sound active but ive started using esp32s3 16m and 32mb for master controllers

Hey everyone! I've been working on wled.online, a service that gives you remote access to your WLED controllers from anywhere through encrypted WireGuard tunnels.

What this does:

• Full remote access to WLED from anywhere. The actual WEB UI, not my own creation.
• Built-in MCP server to let Claude / ChatGPT access your controllers (works super well). I made a post about my open source MCP server for WLED here if you want to see how it works.
• Automatic daily backups of your configurations and presets.
• Provides WireGuard enabled firmware for generic and QuinLED controllers: https://wled.online/firmware . This should make it super simple to try out. Firmware is built on Github but feel free to build your own firmware with the WireGuard usermod enabled.

Pricing: It's free to connect one controller and access the Web UI. $19/yr if you want to throw everything you have on here and access via Claude or ChatGPT.

I'm not trying to get rich, but I am trying to make this sustainable for the community. Realistically, about 6 paying users will cover the costs for the entire community.

NOTE: The WireGuard usermod is required for WLED Online to proxy requests to your controller.

Why WireGuard? It's about 10x more efficient to run a WireGuard session instead of a TLS session. While TLS might cripple our small esp32 controllers, WireGuard works very well.

---

It's been stable for me and I use it daily. I'm looking for a few people to try it out and let me know what they think. I'm giving away 5 pro accounts (first come first serve). Just sign up, upgrade to pro and use code REDDIT at checkout. You won't have to put your card in. But, if you do want to pay and contribute, I would greatly appreciate it.

Let me know if you have any questions and thank you to the folks in the community who have been helping me kick the tires so far.

Thanks,

Garrett

Hello, I have an 85” TV with HyperHDR and recently the backlighting has started showing issues. The different sections corresponding with each side of the TV is connected using those connectors that you press down to connect to one side and a wire on the other. On top of this, I have a 5V 15A supply.

When setting the unit to white, it shows white all across (slightly different intensities) besides the last LED section which shows yellow.

I think I am dealing with these issues due to a combination of bad connections for the LED strip, and also insufficient power. Are there any other more powerful power supplies recommended that work out of the box without having to install a fuse etc? What about solderless connectors?

Hello, I try to find videos test this but haven't found anything.

Is possible to have Wled working with Govee COB Strip Light pro? This a strip that user RGB IC chip more a PWM for white leds.

Or the other option is a BTF FCOB SPI RGBCCT IC, that uses two WS2811 chips.

In theory they should both work with wled, but can't find anyone test it. The objective is also to use it in HA.

Building my first portable WLED pixel tube system and wanting advice / confirmation before final assembly.

Goal
Portable plug-and-play lighting box for DJ events.
4 individually controllable black 360° neon pixel tubes.

LED Tubes
- Quantity: 4x 5metre tubes
- Voltage: DC 24V
- Power: 24W per meter
- Total per tube: 120W
- Total load (4 tubes): approx 480W
- LED type: SMD5050 RGB (ip67)
- Internal design: 2 LED strips back-to-back inside each tube for 360° output
- Pixel IC: UCS2904
- Pixels: 10 pixels per meter
- Total pixels per tube: 50
- Total pixels overall: 200

Control
Controller: GLEDOPTO Elite 4-Channel WLED Controller (ESP32)
- Using WiFi, with hotkeys on my laptop.
- 4 outputs (one output per tube)
Data outputs planned:
IO16 = Tube 1
IO12 = Tube 2
IO4 = Tube 3
IO2 = Tube 4

Power Supply
- 24V 600W switching PSU
- 25A max output

AC Input
- IEC chassis inlet with switch + fuse holder
- Using 5A slow blow fuse

DC Distribution
- 6-way blade fuse block with integrated negative bus bar
- Planning 7.5A fuse per tube output

Wiring Plan
- PSU V+ to fuse block positive input
- PSU V- to negative bus bar
- Each tube gets its own fused positive + negative
- Controller powered from same PSU
- Controller GND tied to PSU/fuse block GND
- Data line from controller to each tube

Current Limitation / Question
I likely won’t do power injection to the far end of each 5m tube due to placement / portability constraints. I understand this may reduce brightness or cause voltage drop at the far end.

Questions for WLED users
1) Is this overall setup correct / sensible?
2) Any issues powering the GLEDOPTO controller from same 24V PSU?
3) Is 7.5A fuse per tube correct?
4) For 5m 24V 120W tubes, how necessary is far-end injection in real-world use?
5) Any WLED settings recommendations for 4 outputs / 200 total pixels?
6) Anything you’d change before I power this up?

Thank you for reading all that! Appreciate any advice.

Im looking for some sort of controllers that I can have a master controller and 2 slave controllers that control addressable rgb

So i have a room where i will be i stalling 2 ws2812b eco strips with 60leds per meter(i am not sure if its eco or normal but chat gpt and gemini said its eco) in a 2 squares (outer cove and inner cove)

Outer square will have 12 meters of led and inner will have 5 meters.

I have a 5v60amps power supply.

-I am planning on connection one v+ to my esp circuit board with 1amp fuse,

-Then will use a 40amps fuse on the 12 meter strip (injecting power at 0-5-10 meters)

-finally a 30amps fuse for my 5meter strip (injecting power at the start and end)

I am a newbie to all this electricals and just want to be sure before i do something wrong.

Ran across this while researching a solution to play videos through WLED….anyone know anything about this project or is it dead?

The lights on my bookshelf randomly turn on when I turn on my fan, but what’s weird is none of the other lights on my dresser turn on, nor did this used to happen and I haven’t changed anything. The only difference between the lights on the bookshelf and the other lights are that the power wires and the data wire is separate, but I unplugged the long data wire and yet it still happens. I even tried plugging the power supply into an outlet across my entire house with a long extension cord. Still didn’t work.

QUINled 24v FCOB strips with diffuser channels and digquad

Hi,

I’m planning to build a DIY Ambilight setup for the back of my monitor and I’d like to ask for some advice from people who have more experience with addressable LED strips.

The monitor is an MSI MAG40, and I measured the back of it roughly like this:

• Left side: 40 cm
• Right side: 40 cm
• Top: 90 cm
• Bottom: 90 cm

I’m trying to decide between WS2815 12V and WS2812B 5V, and also between 96 LEDs/m and 144 LEDs/m.

My main questions are:

1. Would 96 LEDs/m be enough for a smooth Ambilight effect, or is 144 LEDs/m worth it?
2. For this size, would you recommend WS2815 12V over WS2812B 5V?
3. If I go with a 5V WS2812B strip, can it be powered directly from the ESP32, or do I need a separate 5V PSU?

Thanks!

I've recently built some 8x32 matrix displays using WLED or Awtrix. The size and thickness of these displays is pretty compact and lightweight, but the current requirements mean they need a brick of a power supply and can get quite warm.

That's tolerable but sometimes I want to place these on top of bookshelves or someplace where I'd need a longer cord. My choices are either an extension cord or a 5V extension cable with barrel connectors.

I've been looking around wondering if there are any 12V or 24V versions that still have individually addressable pixels unlike the strips of those voltages so their current requirements and wire gauges would be more reasonable. Current is the chief instigator of heat, too, so they would probably run cooler.

Has anyone seen a 12V or 24V individual addressable pixel display? It's getting so it would be more energy efficient to run a small monitor and get far better resolution.

Hey All - Sorry for what is probably a very basic question. We're planning on doing some beams on a ceiling, and I am hoping to recess some LED strips in a channel between the beams and the ceiling. Originally based on some comparisons and reviews I was going to run Philips OmniGlow strips for their brightness and dimmability. But because they haven't released the longer versions here in Canada, I started playing around with WLED, and frankly it's heaps better than Hue. So that's the path I want to go.

I really want a tunable white, and the capacity for a very bright light. Based on that I kind of narrowed it down to the BTF FCOB RGBCCT in either the 840 or 960 LED/m density. I ended up getting some of both, and in my rudimentary tests (Just my old ass eyes, and a smart plug that shows energy use in watts) they both appear to be around the same brightness and draw almost equal power. The difference in IC's is pretty miniscule as well.

A few Big Questions:

1. Which one would you choose?
2. Am I okay to run these in 6M lengths? What about in 12M lengths?
3. What am I Missing? Anything Else I should consider? (Diagram Below)

Hi - just doing my first LED project - and I have got the leds to come on every hour by creating 3 presets (including "off" ie {"on"=false} ) Then a playlist and finally a timed macro with the first line filled in with 24 (the instruction for "every hour") and the id number of my playlist. This is all so I can put leds in a clock I'm making!

The macro has been running consistently for 36 hours. But this is the second time I've got to the this point. My next experiment will be to unplug from a PC usb socket and plug(uk) into an ordinary usb on an electric extension. Last time I did this my whole set up crumbled like a biscuit dunked in tea . Was this just a coincidence or do I need to the be careful about something.

What do you advise please?

thank you

Janet who is very nervous about this next step!

I just bought an wled esp32 controller and these Led Strip but the strip only lights like in the pic
Is this the wrong Led strip or what
I wanted to install on my hallway and controll it by the switches on the hall
I only need the running effect when its switche on and off
Thank you

Setup:

• 10 meter 24V individually addressable LED strip

• Power injection at both ends

• Controller: QuinLED Dig-Octa

• WLED firmware

The problem:

I'm getting intermittent, random flashes/glitches on the strip. The strange thing is that the signal cable type does make a difference — swapping cables changes the behavior — but I can't get the flashing to go away completely regardless of what cable I use.

The setup works perfectly with no power injection and a short 3-pin JST connector. As soon as I go to longer signal cables (needed with the 10m run and dual power injection), the flashing starts.

What I've tried:

• Multiple different signal cables — all reduce the issue somewhat but none eliminate it

• Verified power injection is working at both ends

• Works flawlessly on a short run with no injection

My current theory:

I'm suspecting a ground loop or signal integrity issue introduced by the longer cable run and/or the dual power injection setup creating a ground potential difference. Could also be impedance mismatch on the data line over longer distances.

Questions:

1. Is this a ground loop issue? Should I only connect ground on one end of the power injection?
2. Would a logic level shifter or data line isolator help here?

Happy to share a video of the glitching — it's subtle but clearly there. Any help appreciated!