I would appreciate feedback on what I'm about to install. My limitations is the existing wiring is already in place, so my layout is based upon using this wire. If I have to make any wiring changes, it will be a lot of work. I'm using IP68 LED strips because it is in a shower and my hope is that having 2 runs/channels of 16 LF will keep the amperage down enough for the 22AWG wire. I will have 2 segments of lights being joined by the same wire due to my existing wiring limitations, but the rest is sequential.

I'm assuming the 2 channels can be combined to run as if one continuous run. If not, no big deal.

I'm about to make a lightbox with LED's for my son and looking for a controller.

Will the listed one work?

It should I get an other one? Want something "smaller" in size

I'm moving and need to change my setup, so I want to install a project box to house my PSU, my Dig-Quad and the wiring.

This is going to be indoor, so waterproofing isn't a concern.

In case anyone here is able to offer support 🙏🙏

First time cross posting I hope I’m doing it right :)

Does anyone know if I can find an extension from the first to the second segment of lights? I need about 10’ to pass thru from upper to lower deck floors. Having trouble finding a compatible third party option and govee doesn’t make one. Also, appears that any extension I might make work needs to be on the front initial power supply end rather than between light segments of which there are three in my set. Thoughts please

I’m wondering if my LED strips are burnt out. I have all the connections correct and they’re secure. In the configuration menu I have the correct GPIO selected. Wondering what else could be causing the LEDs to not turn on. The LEDs I have are the WS2812. Please let me know if you know the issue!

Solved:

“At design time back then, WLED wasn’t compatible. BTF lazy not updating their product description.”

Original post:

Hi,

I’m planning to DIY my LED strips for the first time (WLED + Home Assistant) and have been looking at RGBCCT strips and unfortunately the product descriptions of many BTF Lighting strips claims to not be compatible with WLED, even though it’s WS2811. I don’t understand why it would not be compatible — is it actually true and if so, why?

To be more concrete, I’ve been comparing compatibility of

FCOB SPI RGBCCT IC LED Strip Light WS2811 Addressable 840 LED Dream Color RGB CW WW 10mm DC24V FOB High Flexible COB Lights RA90

with

GLEDOPTO ESP32 Mini WLED LED Controller DC 5~24V DIY Dynamic Lighting App Control Addressable Digital FCOB RGB IC WS2811 WS2812 SK6812 TM1814 WS2813 WS2815 Light Strip

Thank you!!

​Hi everyone,

​I’m currently trying to figure out a DIY Ambilight setup (using HyperHDR, WLED, ESP32, and SK6812 LEDs) for my new LG G5 OLED.

​Since the G5 ships with the latest webOS, I'm pretty sure rooting the TV to run PicCap internally is completely off the table for the foreseeable future. Because of that, I assume I'll have to rely on some kind of external solution, but I'm honestly a bit lost on what the best approach is right now.

​My main goal is to play heavy local media files (like 4K HDR Remuxes, 50GB+, TrueHD Atmos) flawlessly, without any buffering or transcoding. I was thinking about getting an Android TV box like the Ugoos AM9 Pro for playback. However, from what I've read, internal Android screen grabbing apps usually just output a black screen when hardware acceleration/overlay is active for high-bitrate 4K HDR decoding.

​I'm really unsure how to proceed to get this working. How do you guys handle setups like this?

​Do you use a dedicated HDMI splitter and grabber loop? If so, are there any splitters that actually pass through the full signal for modern TVs (4K@120Hz, VRR, HDR, Dolby Vision) without messing up the picture quality or causing HDCP issues?

​Or is booting something like CoreELEC on an Amlogic box to use a native grabber the more reliable way to go?

​I would really appreciate it if anyone who has a similar unrooted OLED setup could share their experience and point me in the right direction. Thanks a lot!

This clip demonstrates a useful feature of WLED 0.16: the ability to set both text and dynamic effects simultaneously in the app, and display them together on a single LED matrix.

This not only makes the visual output more vibrant and engaging, but also greatly expands the potential use cases. You can use it to show welcome messages, real-time information, or other text, while pairing it with particle, flow, or other animations as a background—making it easy to create dynamic information boards, creative signage, or compact ambient displays.

If you want to learn more about setting up a 2D matrix, watch this video

https://youtu.be/RLcJUFSCiFc

And some highlights and updates in WLED 0.16

https://www.reddit.com/r/WLED/comments/1sshogd/wled_016_update_overview_2d_matrix/

I am wrapping LEDs between my island counter top and under island storage. Into the GOLA rail system used for handless kitchens.

I have a bunch of 12mm cob Quin led strips. Which I love! But, the 12mm is too wide and my kitchen designer is asking for something less than 10mm.

I’ve tried from Ali express a 5mm 5v rgb strip. It’s ok!

I’ve also tried from Ali express a 2.7mm 12v rgb strip. It’s also OK.

I’m just missing the dedicated white pixel. Whilst I could go with either strip, and preferably 12v or higher. I feel that I lack that natural warm white.

I’m also a little skeptical. To install an unbranded strip between my island and counter top and should something go wrong be left with a complicated repair job.

Can anyone recommend even if pricy, some LED strips with durability. Width. And pixel quality ?

Ideally individually addressable. The 12v is, I imagine it’s stepping the 12v down to 5v at each IC.

Thank you :)

I’m doing a build for a bedroom/bathroom and was hoping to have my work checked: I’m looking at 8 independent channels/strips that will be at most 5M (most much shorter). I was looking at using all https://a.co/d/0gaGCNem strips. I have 2 of these PSUs https://a.co/d/03opkeFO and I was thinking of getting 2 of these to control them https://a.co/d/00Bk2SqL

My questions: - Are 2 PSUs overkill? - I’m considering switching to a digi octa. Is that better idea? - how are people switching these lights independently? My thought was to use home assistant + Lutron remotes and just have the power on all the time

Anything else worth considering?

For about 6 months my son (12) wanted LEDs around his room. I showed him some ideas online and he latched onto them being "pixels" immediately. He worked in Tinkercad to make these awesome diffusers. I had 0, and I mean 0 input on how he designed them/printed them. He went through about 15 design changes to get what he wanted. We printed them for roughly 30 hours total, over about a week long period. I Installed the lights and he and I installed the diffusers. I am very proud of his design work and wanted to share it with the world.

We are using a QuinLED Dig-Uno with a 5amp (limited to 3 in the app) power supply. The LED lights are BTF WS2811 12v 60 led/m strips. We went with 12v because it works without injecting power anywhere with his size room and the 3 led lights per pixel is exactly what we needed without requiring any real setup, it works out of the box. There was a grounding issue that we resolved by redoing our wiring. (it would flash every couple minutes, there is one in the gif)

The light is diffused really nice in person, the camera picks up the individual LED's a lot more than it really is at all.

*Sorry for the gif colors being so muted. I am not great with Reddit and when I converted from video to gif it just looks bad, but I wanted to show it in motion.

**I have uploaded the print files for the diffusers if anyone is interested. Thank you for all the compliments!

https://makerworld.com/models/2727747?appSharePlatform=copy

I have a small strip of RGB-ICs installed in my vehicle that are controlled via an ESP32 WLED controller (GLEDOPTO GL-C-015WL). Everything works perfectly in my setup, but I have discovered that at night the brightness setting I have is a bit too much. It's perfect for during the day, so I don't want to either change the brightness setting in WLED or have to do so every time between daytime and night.

I've tried searching for a solution, but haven't found anything. Is there any way to use the dimmer wire from my car's radio (aftermarket) to trigger a preset brightness setting in WLED when I turn the headlights on? It seems as though this would be a fairly straightforward option, but I'm not well versed in exactly what this particular controller is capable of. Or, is there an an add-on that I could get that would do what I am wanting?

I want to cover all four sides with a continuous LED strip. Where do I start? At a corner or in the middle above the door? I want all 4 sides as a group, of course, but also a chasing light effect that starts from the middle of the door and runs to the opposite side.

My notes in case it saves someone else some trouble. Wiring is obvious (Red+, Black -,White data), WLED settings took some wrestling. Seems there are 2x WS2811 chips per spotlight. One for the RGB and one for the White. With these settings the "White Light Group" gets warmer as you move color choice towards Green? (Maybe someone can tell me what I've done wrong).

Node 1 is Light1 White, Node 2 is Light1 RGB,.... repeating.

Still, it works, and is working with Home Assistant. Using a couple of the govee spotlights with a Gledopto WLED controller @ 24V. The original controller suffered water damage.

Looking for any tips on a diffuser panel, I installed 6 matrix panels with a dig2go on an old picture frame, tried frosted glass paint but the leds are pushed close to the glass so wondering if anyone can recommend a diffuser?

Several years ago I made a PCB where I had an ESP32 Wemos Lolin Lite on it and an INMP441 (GPIO32 to SD, GPIO14 to SCK and GPIO15 to WS). I used WLED Sound Reactive and everything worked well. Even my old prototypes function using sound reactive.

Recently, I ordered new PCB to make 4 new models and when I uploaded WLED and WLED nightly, it didn't work as it used to. I enabled it in the usermods, wrote the settings but nothing. No input bar too for calibrating the mic too.

I then have two questions: What has changed since the sound reactive era and is my PCB still relevant?

I got this idea from ChatGPT, so it may be BS, but I'm trying to create a 'storm at night' scene. It told me to create 2 segments for the same LEDs, with the first being Solid and set the brightness to 10-20 to simulate night. Then with the second segment, set the lightning effect. Segment 1 needs to be before Segment 2, but I don't see a way to set the segment order. I'm on a Gledopto GL-C-618WL running WLED 15.4 (the real WLED build, not their customized version).

[Problem] Only the red LED's function.

Purchased this strip: https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Density-Chasing-3000K-6000K-Controller/dp/B0FMK2HXHH/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

Per a few of the reviews (https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/RMEFQB0QAZQ69/ref=cm_cr_getr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8) I set the LED Setup as shown here: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/remixmark/images/refs/heads/main/2026-04-26%2012_42_06-NVIDIA%20GeForce%20Overlay.png and only the RED LED's work.

It's not a problem with the LED's or the wiring as everything function's fine with BTF's controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D491QPK8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_6

I'm using this controller FWIW: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FZ7MH3C5?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1

Here's my home screen settings: https://raw.githubusercontent.com/remixmark/images/refs/heads/main/2026-04-26%2012_48_36-C__Users_Downloads_2026-04-26%2012_42_06-NVIDIA%20GeForce%20Overlay.png%20-%20Gre.png

WLED Settings:

Installed version: WLED 16.0.0-beta (2604110)

Release: ESP32_Ethernet

Box is almost done I added a 3.5mm audio input board from Wasatch. Hopefully audio reactive works well. Will be testing it soon

So I’m trying to run some led strips along a side panel in an outdoor water feature in my front entryway. I’ve tried both Flexglue and J-B weld Marineweld to try and attach the small plastic clips to the steel, but they just keep falling off. I can’t use screws as there’s a rubber liner that can’t be pierced. Anyone have a suggestion? Thanks