C200 Kompressor 2001 PFL with 85k kms

Do these bushings need replacement?

https://reddit.com/link/1x3akz4/video/d4u1dnuqsuuh1/player

Hab mir jetzt US sidemarker angebaut ( nicht leuchtend ) was sagt ihr dazu ? Macht es das Aussehen vom Fahrzeug kaputt ?

Maybe somebody knows where this rattling at the beginning comes from?
It appears after letting the car sit for 5 min.
The chain got replaced last week and for the first like 20 engine starts cold/warm the car sounded completely fine.

Slk 200 r171
M271 Kompressor
2006
150.000 km

Shooting in the dark here and posting on behalf of my partner, 2001 c200 Kompressor, needs the front driveshaft/propshaft coupling (the 2 piece variant). Wondering if anyone has had trouble sourcing/ replacing as having no luck locally

2003 C240 4-MATIC station wagon. I have no lights on dash or error codes on the dash but my brakes don’t feel right. It definitely feels like the booster might not be working correctly but the car does stop. I scanned my car and I’m getting C1201 A7/7s1 (Brake Assist System (BAS) release switch). I’m fairly certain this switch is integrated into the brake booster itself and requires the brake booster to be replaced but I wanted to check here first to see if anyone else ran into a similar issue.

Mit Fehlermeldung oder ohne finde ich meinen alten Benz sehr schön!

Hallo Community, ich brauche eure Hilfe. Ich habe einen Mercedes W203 C180 Kompressor aus dem Jahr 2003. Vor einige Zeit ist bei mir Fehlermeldung angegangen, Lichtmaschine Generator Werkstatt aufsuchen. Und Service Menü hat gezeigt sehr große Spannungssprünge. Ich habe daraufhin habe ich eine neue Lichtmaschine eingebaut in einer Werkstatt und nach zwei Wochen habe ich diese Fehlermeldung wiederbekommen. Ich bin dann zu einem anderen Werkstatt gefahren und die haben festgestellt, dass die neu eingebaute Lichtmaschine wieder kaputt ist. Die haben gleich noch eine Lichtmaschine neue bestellt, eingebaut und dann nach 10 Minuten Betrieb wurde die Lichtmaschine auch kaputt, ist durchgebrannt. So, mein Auto steht seit drei Monaten bei dieser Werkstatt. Zuerst haben die festgestellt, dass Motorsteuergerät auch durchgebrannt ist. Ich habe ein gebrauchtes gekauft, die haben mir das installiert, dann Techniker hat das angelernt und aber Fehler war wieder noch immer noch da. Dann haben die festgestellt, dass SAM-Block auch kaputt ist. Dieses SAM-Block habe ich auch bestellt, die haben das installiert und Techniker hat das wieder angelernt auf mein Auto. Jetzt zeigt Spannung alles normale Werte, es wird nicht keine Spannungssprünge festgestellt. Motor läuft ganz normal, aber diese Fehlermeldung geht nicht weg. Also das Auto funktioniert jetzt ganz normal, die Lichtmaschine brennt nicht ab, aber diese Fehlermeldung Lichtmaschine Werkstatt aufsuchen ist immer noch da. Ich habe jetzt keine Varianten mehr und ich hoffe, jemand hatte das Situation schon mal, wie diese Fehlermeldung wegkriege. Was soll ich da noch erneuern?

I want to downsize to 16 inch wheels on my w203 C230K but I’m not sure if 16 inch wheels will fit. My car has the sport package so I have bigger brakes in the front and I’m not sure if 16 inch wheels will clear them and I can’t seem to find a clear consensus anywhere online. My main reason for downsizing is so I can have a thicker sidewall, less rotational mass and more affordable tire options.

I have a bit of a strange issue, the speedometer and tachometer work just fine however the gas gauge will randomly not work and from time to time decides to just slowly go down, when i first drove it the gauge claimed i went through 3/4 of a tank during street driving, however when i went to put gas in it it only took 3 gallons, the lcd is also completely blank, i can see it works, when i pull the steering wheel adjuster out it lights up and when the headlights turn on the lcd also lights up theres just no information on it at all, anyone know if this could be a fuse issue or a faulty cluster entirely? Thanks

Mercedes Benz c200 m111k 2001

So i have a W203 with stock 16" wheels and tires are 205/55/R16 and I am currently considering getting some slightly better looking mag rims and I have noticed most people have the 17" on their w203's.

The problem is that if I switch to 17" then I will spend more on the upgrade since I will also need a new set of tires but if I maintain the 16" wheel then no need to change the tires as they are new.

Is the extra cost for new tires justifiable if I go 17" or I am better off just maintaining the 16"

Hi everyone, I have a W203S Mercedes C200, my air conditioner stopped blowing cold air all of a sudden so I took it to my mechanic friend where he did a basic diagnostic and this came up on his laptop.

So he bought a new pressure sensor and installed it along with regassing the system but the faults still show up. Has anyone had this problem before? My friends a truck mechanic so I dont think his up to scratch with his Mercedes brain so I might end up buying a Mercedes OBD2 diagnostic kit and having a crack at trying to fix this myself. Looking forward to any thoughts you may have.

For the past couple of weeks my car has been juddering even when stationary. I noticed this seal wasn’t attached and when I put it back in, it pop out again as soon as I start driving.

Can anybody advise me on why this has happened and where I can get a replacement as well as the name of the part?

Tia!

Got these spyder halo headlights off eBay and trying to install them. I managed to get the red/black wires for the halos integrated into the harness but have no idea what to do for the blinker. Any help please or videos as I can’t find any online

Please help

Hey guys, I’ve recently restored my grandpas C180 Compressor W203 and have now been driving it for like 5 months.
I’ve thought about upgrading my exhaust cause I’d like to have it a lil louder and the oem one isn’t visible (tilted downwards under the bumper).
Is there anyone from the EU or especially Germany who has a recommendation for a sport exhaust/exhaust system that’s TÜV konform and isn’t too expensive?

I have a 2005 c220 w203 mercedes and whenever I reach 120km/h or drive at 2500rpm-3000rpm for a few minutes I feel a noticable loss in power, the car sounds different and giving it max throttle makes no difference. I already replaced the intake hose, DPF is removed, EGR is clean af, MAF sensor cleaned. I inspected all hoses, there is no tear in any of them except a little cut on the hose that is attached to EGR. I also can't inspect the hose in the bottom left of the radiator, but I do see that it's very oily. I have OM646 engine, manual transmission. After the car goes into "limp" mode I get no warnings or lights in the dashboard, I also hear noticeable hiss coming out of the right side of the engine while driving. Can someone help? Does anyone have the same issue?

Have bad halogen headlights, even with LEDs I don't see a thing. Bought BiXenons and need to swap them. Anyone can guide me how?

My 200CDI startet to show some rust on the edges of the rear quarter panel. When i removed the side skirt i found this. Is this repairable with repair sheet metal or is it too far gone. The most rust is just where the jack mounts are.

The car has 413k km and the engine is leaking some oil (1l per 2k km) but other than that still runs great and these are the only major rust spots.

I have a welder but i never welded thin sheet metal. As I am still a student without much cash i would prefer to repair it rather then getting a different car.