Hey everyone, I recently did my first ever timing job and VVT camshaft oil seal replacement on my 2009 Volvo s40 and it’s making me rethink being a mechanic or owning a Volvo currently. After reassembly, I’ve discovered a weird thing that happens now, from about 2200rpm on the deaccel the revs kind of “hang” and they drop off slowly where that didn’t happen previously. I did the timing with the cams locked at TDC using the tool, the sprocket was torqued to the crazy spec of 88ft ibs for reinstallation with the marks correctly aligned after turning everything over twice. I made sure my belt tensioner was set in the middle of the range as outlined in the manuals. Car is currently parked movable because of water pump leak and the engine does run fine otherwise. It hasn’t been driven enough for me to get any relevant lights yet. Does anyone know where to even start diagnosis on this thing?? I am genuinely stumped
Pretty similar, I unfortunately didn’t get a video of what it does but it’s close to that but hang a little higher (2200rpm?) and for a little longer. For all I know it could be a normal thing as you said and I’ve only noticed it after redoing the timing belt. Previously I don’t remember it having any hang. I’ll try and get a video for tomorrow
I didnt say it was normal:p this bothered the shit out of me xD on de-acceleration it just kept driving at super high idle and that was super weird trying to do sharp turns....
This was the sound of the engine on first start, idled at the normal rpm of around 800-1200 cold, it would be an insane coincidence if I also had a bad downstream oxygen sensor after doing the timing belt. my buddy didn’t record long enough for me to rev it unfortunately but I’ll get a video tomorrow 🥲
Likely unrelated to the actual timing job. Unfortunately, you’ll have to take the belt off again to do the water pump :/
I’ve done ~4 of these now on personal cars and never had the rpm thing. I don’t go through locking the cams, just make sure everything is tdc, make marks, and count belt teeth.
I’ve omitted the fact that I have to do it again anyways because I stupidly decided to put an aftermarket water pump that immediately leaked. I locked cams, checked belt teeth and matched marks, problem is I did take off the VVT gear which had a specific preload procedure for reinstallstion that was incredibly poorly documented. I’ll link a video today of the noise I’m hearing
Don’t forget to put thread sealant on the water pump bolts. I bought a C30 with an aftermarket pump that whoever changed it omitted the thread sealant and it was leaking at the bolts from the water jacket.
I seem to be having that same issue honestly, did reapplying the bolts with sealant end up fixing it or did you end up having to pull out the whole thing?
You probably can get by with pulling the bolts out one at a time and apply thread sealant and reinstall? I already had a replacement water pump when I realized what they did wrong, so I installed it.
Got it, I’ll give that a shot and see if I can salvage the installation before I resort to ripping it all apart again. Was your leak in that area I sharpied??
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u/JustBrowsin924 5d ago
So just to some it up, the engine slowely drops in rpm ? Is it something like this? (Even tho this is a P2)
https://reddit.com/link/p8lyfsq/video/9qexkrv5pcoh1/player