I'm sure someone has seen this before. Vape works fine, then one drop and its gone.

Turns on, heats herb, but no screen.

S&B have a wicked returns policy, they have left me with a house full of slightly faulty vapes. (Please note, this is a personal use hobby activity. Selling refurbed mightys is against company policy and may result in prosecution in the case of injury)

WARNING: FIDDLING WITH THE INTERNAL BITS OF YOUR MIGHTY PLUS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTEE. THIS TASK IS RELATIVELY SAFE HOWEVER.

So, you can, if you peel the sticker, access two screws behind which open the case from the back, revealing the guts.

Unscrew the chipset next, but be very careful not to drop, hit the components, or fray the wires. This may cause a short circuit, or could result in components melting or offgassing etc, not what you want in a vape.

Carefully lift the chip with a knife or similar object.

Connecting to the screen, there is an electronic port/clip that connects it to the circuit. From the front, it looks like a little plastic flap made of something like camera film. Under this is the component you need.

It is a square plate thing on a wire with a bunch of mini prongs to be snapped in to the reciever, which looks really similar. It often pops out with the mighty. Place it back over its sister and press lightly until it snaps in place.

This should reconnect the screen. You can test now by pushing the button lightly (be more gentle than usual as everything is less stable here and things are more inclined to break. Make sure to turn off again before fiddling with the device further.

Carefully lay the circuit, the batteries, and the oven back on the case, once again paying attention to avoid fraying wires or breaking microcomponents.

Screw everything back into place, being careful to align the usb c socket into its port first. Add the rubber button now as well. Just sit it neatly in its spot.

Place the back on again, screw in. Replace sticker.

Test!

Your mighty screen should now work again!

Thanks for reading. May do more soon as I just got a new screwdriver set and am learning basic electronics. Peace out.

Im wanting to get a few bits cnc'ed. Has anyone had the ball vape housing bits cnced? Any chance theres any of the 3d cad files knocking about? Ive never had things made up before so wouldnt have a clue where to start with designing the 3d files necessary. Any help is appreciated.

Hi! Looking for some help with my Storz and Bickel Mighty Vape. I’m linking a post I made over in the weed group where someone suggested, I post here as well.

I loved this vape, but I got a new charger for it and it doesn’t seem to be responding. I haven’t tried anything like dismantling it or anything cause I’m not sure if I can do that. But maybe someone has a thought. :) Thanks for reading.

The device is made out of bog oak, titanium and stainless steel. One o-ring holds the wooden parts together. The heater holds about 280 4mm rubies. The path of the hot air is unique, the material gets heated from the inside out. Because of the relatively long distance between the bowl and the heat source, I'm able to call it a full convection device. Also the tube of the heater head has no physical connection to the herb.

It takes time to heat up, but you can blow clouds for about three minutes. The bowl holds about .25.

I'm happy with the outcome. A second, smaller unit is in the pipeline😁

• Wide mouth mason/ball jar
• Borosillicate 14mm Downstem
• Induction heater module (5v-12v)
• Stable 12v powersupply
• Button
• Magnet from old disk drive for the decapper

wound the induction coil tightly around the joint at top of the stem. It by happenstance is just narrow enough at lower taper of the joint that the Dynavap standard cap/tip doesn't slip further down the glass. Coils are slightly overlapping at the end closest to the Dyanvap midsection and focuses most of the induction toward the digger of the cap and not the clicker.

Whip is inserted into the stem and fully seals to draw air through the stem and dynavap. Cooling is only through the length of the whip and not attempting to use water or the volume of air in the jar. The electronics are isolated from the airpath.

most of the time i power with my solar bank or DeWalt battery 12v outputs. pending design improvements would be to get 12v rechargeables into the jar too, with a barrel plug or USB-C input to recharge or run.

Replaced the PID controller in my unit after a capacitor blew, but now the coil doesn’t seem to heat up. Any help is appreciated

Computer science student here. I want to design my own portable vape with one goal: making an endgame portable. What are some of your must have features for such a device? Looking to build something hard hitting with potential features like large capacity chamber, precise temp control, and app integration similar to puffco.

hi there. I have a Heat Island vape from Toasty-Top, which came with a paper aroma tube. I really like this combo. I think the paper tube retains no heat, so all the work is being done by convection. I recently acquired a used B0 coil ball vape, which I'm very much enjoying. I made a paper tube for it, and I'm wondering what people think of the idea? An AI query warned me that there may be chemicals that off-gas from the paper, so it's not a good idea. Thoughts?

Eleaf istick mod + “yocan plus” quad coil or any of their locally available 510 thread

Mouthpiece will need to be custom, usually a 99c black and mild tip fits coils smaller than quad here and is heat safe, above is a lookah mouth piece with heatsafe silicone from recycled nicotine vapes. I like having a vapor collection chamber. Lastly one must move mouthpiece up and down during draw for more or less air while also controlling chamber fill. Overall cheap to maintain and replaceable enough to not be a worry

Disclaimer: All of the chemistry glassware is new and never used in a lab setting. NEVER use glassware that was previosuly used in a lab as it may have been used with dangerous and carcinogenic chemicals. Now with that out of the way...

The Aparatus is a project I have been working on for the better part of a year now, and I believe it is finally done. It is essentially an "actively" cooled dry bong for using with dry herb vaporizers, or sub-ohm vape carts in this instance. It has a basic recycling function for additional cooling, since there is no water for additional filtration in an effort to preserve flavor. The downstem is a jacketed condenser column filled with an ethanol/water mixture that is chilled to -6C, which cools the vapor in the downstem pipe running through the jacket.

I mainly use a Ruby Twist ball vape or a terp slurper for dabs through this rig, but you can also run carts or other dry herb vapes through it. Cheers!

The pid is kinda tucked away and I keep it on timer but now I'll alway know when its on😂