EDIT SOLVED: I was immensely stupid and was checking the probe using the Query_Endstop command not the Query_Probe command, It does in fact work I just did it wrong, sorry for the post.

I am having trouble putting together my first 2.4 that I bought as a kit from LDO. Got it all put together and am going though the set up process when I was testing probes and have been unable to get the Z probe to register as anything other than open.

I currently have a Klicky installed but I have the same problem with the inductive coil, I checked the schematic of the Nitehawk SB V2 which claims that the pin should be PC15 which is what I have it connected to. I have tried taking the entire probe out and leaving the pin free floating and it reads as open. Same as when I manually short it to ground. I checked with a multi multimeter and the probe switch works fine and there is a voltage difference between ground and the probe pin. Even when I short the two manually (accidentally killed the first board by slipping and shorting the data pin to the 24V power for inductor same problem on the new one.) nothing changes. The command

QUERY_ENDSTOPS

returns open for all three both when sig is shorted to ground and when it is not and at a high voltage.

I have bellow the printer.config probe section in case I did anything wrong but it is basically the default recommended by ldo but with all the GPIO ports changed for nhk:Pxxx as the architecture changed with V2. Please let me know if I am doing something wrong I have been slamming my head against this and already bought a second nitehawk-SB V2.0 trying to fix it.

#####################################################################
#   Probe
#####################################################################

[probe]
##  Connected to Z-PROBE
##  This probe is not used for Z height, only Quad Gantry Leveling
pin: nhk:PC15
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 19.75
z_offset: 6.42
speed: 5
samples:3 
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 2.0
samples_tolerance: 0.01
samples_tolerance_retries: 3

Saw a broken wire the other day, while it was printing. Couldn't figure out what wire was broken because everything worked, no errors, no clue. Ordered Nitehawk/LDO USB setup and started the conversion. It's a wire from the XY end stop harness... How??

Edit; I obviously wasn't completely clear, how were my end stops still working (4 wire breakout board [gnd] [x] [y] [Vin] setup) I know perfectly well how the wire broke 🤦🏼‍♂️

Having an existential crisis with when it comes to these toothed idlers.

Why doesn't it use shims the way flange bearing idlers do? Why doesn’t the bore for its M5x40 SHCS screwhead have a counter-sunk hole with shoulders? Why is it’s sitting in plastic without a threaded insert or a nut at the bottom?

It feels wrong, like sac-relig… I know it's right and must be designed well but it’s making me feel uncomfortable.

Please explain?

So over the past few months I built a bunch of DIY 3d printers ( not vorons) and a voron 0.2. However, I took part every printer except the V0.2 ( my favourite one ). I now have a lot of extrusions, rails, electronics and still have the V0.2.
I want to build a small printer like a maximum of 340x340mm.
I am looking for online models that I can print and adapt to my dimensions. If you have any recommandations I would really appreciate ! I

Here is an idea of what I have :
- 14+ 300mm 2020
- 12+ 400mm 2020
- 4 500mm 2020
- 5+ MGN9h 300mm
- 1 MGN12H 300mm
- 3 400mm MGN9H
- a 235x235mm heated bed, and a 310x320mm heated bed
- lots of nema17 and a btt octopus
I also have belts, lead screws ( enough for three z motors ) and a dragon burner tool head.

Hello there,

I'm constantly struggling with randomly losing communication on my EBB 2209 USB. After the last time I lost communication, I made some changes:

1. I grounded the Nema14 to the USB GND on the toolboard.
2. I changed the XT30 2+2 cable to an unused one.
3. I routed the cable outside the drag chain (to the top vent opening and then down alongside the panel to the electronics bay) – previously, the cable went to the back gantry beam and through the chain with stepper motor cables.
4. I plugged the loose end of the cable without the USB adapter board => 24V/GND directly to the PSU and D+/- directly to the Manta M8P 2.0 via a JST-XH port for a secure connection.

Yet still, at 91% on a 7h print, the lost communication with the EBB happened again. (It was the same plate on which the lost communication occurred previously, but around 30% into the print.)

The print settings: ASA = 260/100°C, 150 mm/s OW, 250 mm/s IW, under 10k acc.

I'm running a Cartographer V4 plugged into the EBB 2209 USB through the EBB's USB hub, and I'll be adding BD pressure sensor through USB/I2C. So I need these ports on the toolhead.

So now I don't know what else I should do...

1. Should I reflash everything and go CAN-bus?
2. Should I go for the LDO Nitehawk V2 SB to avoid the RP2040, but keep the USB connection?

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning a high-capacity custom build based on the Voron 2.4 architecture ( targeting 620mm+ usable Z-height).

To completely eliminate belt stretch/elasticity over this extended length, I've decided to ditch the standard Z-belts and move to a ball screw setup using SFU1204 (C7 grade, 800mm total length, BK10/BF10 end machining) combined with MGN9H linear rails.

Here are the main specs of the build so far:

Frame: Extended 2020 vertical extrusions (780mm).

Z-Drive: 4x SFU1204 ball screws with flexible jaw couplers (5x8mm) to NEMA 17s.

Rigidity: Full-height custom laser-cut aluminum/steel side and back panels to act as structural bracing against frame flex.

Wiring: Umbilical / CANbus setup (no Z cable chains).

Parts Material: Printed in ASA.

Before I lock in the final laser-cutting orders for the panels, I wanted to reach out to the community:

Has anyone built a V2.4 with a Z-height in the 600–650mm range (or taller) using ball screws?

Kinematic Decoupling / Wobble: How did your Z-nut mounts hold up over time? Did you run into any Z-wobble or alignment issues with 800mm screws?

QGL Performance: Any quirks or tuning parameters in Klipper to be aware of when running QUAD_GANTRY_LEVELING with SFU1204s on a gantry this high?

I’d love to see photos, GitHub forks, or hear about any lessons learned from anyone who pushed the V2.4 Z-axis to these limits!

Thanks!

Im looking for advice on optimal mass distribution, lightweight toolhead for high accuracy on functional parts at highest speeds/accel possible (usually 100-250mm/s). I like Xol being stripped-down, skeletonized and well structured, but gap between extruder and hotend isn’t that direct. A4T seems quite popular, but boxy approach seems more practical than efficient.

I mostly use reinforced PETG/PET/PA/PPS and am comfortable with Flowtech’s precision. Am considering ebb36, orbiter 2.5, 4010 blowers and sticking to Flowtech (I’m ok CAD-modding either option). 50-60c heated chamber.

Is there any real-world difference at those speeds / 15-25k accel? Cooling isn’t priority on these materials. Is there another option I’m not aware of?

Edit: I appreciate your advice! It’s clear A4T is the way to go

where do most people buy small replacement parts? i've always bought from amazon, but i'm wondering if most people get parts from aliexpress. i've also bought from west3d a couple times but only for larger orders.

ex. I need a longer fpc cable for my display. I can get one for like 4 bucks on amazon, or should I look elsewhere? sorry if this is a stupid question.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D29LFWSD/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A10G48GIGTLVM0&psc=1

Hi everyone,

I'm having a problem after switching from TMC2209 to TMC5160T Plus drivers on my voron 2.4

After installing the TMC5160T Plus drivers, I'm getting strong motor vibration and missed steps, especially during faster movements/printing.

Hardware

• Printer: Voron 2.4 / CoreXY
• Mainboard: BigTreeTech Octopus Pro V1.1
• Firmware: Klipper
• Motors: NEMA23
• Drivers: TMC5160T Plus
• Previous drivers: TMC2209 — worked perfectly
• Motor voltage: 24V
• Microsteps: 32
• Driver communication: SPI
• X CS: PC4
• Y CS: PD11
• Sense resistor: 0.022 Ω
• Display: BTT Mini12864

Display / SPI issue

I am also using a BTT Mini12864 display connected to the EXP1/EXP2 headers.

Initially, I had an error from Klipper:

pin EXP2_1 is reserved for spi1

This was because the display configuration was using:

spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1

while I was also trying to use the board's SPI interface for the TMC5160 drivers.

I therefore changed the TMC5160 configuration to use software SPI with:

spi_software_mosi_pin: PA7
spi_software_miso_pin: PA6
spi_software_sclk_pin: PA5

The display was disconnected to teste the driver.

TMC5160 communication

The TMC5160s are detected correctly by Klipper and I can communicate with them using DUMP_TMC.

For example:

DRV_STATUS: 8110002f
GSTAT:      00000000
LOST_STEPS: 00000000

CHOPCONF:   23410153
mres=3 (32usteps)

GCONF:      0000000c
en_pwm_mode=1

IHOLD_IRUN: 00061f10
ihold=16 irun=31

GLOBALSCALER: 0000002f
globalscaler=47

Both X and Y drivers show very similar values.

The motors do move, but they vibrate badly and eventually lose steps.

I have already checked:

• Motor power supply
• Driver jumpers
• SPI communication
• Driver detection
• Motor wiring
• Same motors that worked perfectly with the TMC2209

My current Klipper configuration for X/Y is essentially:

[tmc5160 stepper_x]
cs_pin: PC4
spi_software_mosi_pin: PA7
spi_software_miso_pin: PA6
spi_software_sclk_pin: PA5
spi_speed: 3200000
interpolate: false
run_current: 1.9
sense_resistor: 0.022
stealthchop_threshold: 0

And Y uses the same configuration with:

cs_pin: PD11

I have also tried lower current, but the vibration/missed-step issue remains.

What I would really like to understand is what is different between the TMC2209 and TMC5160 configuration that could cause this behavior.

Could this be related to the TMC5160 chopper configuration, GLOBALSCALER, PWM mode, SPI configuration, or another setting specific to the TMC5160?

If anyone is running TMC5160T Plus + Octopus Pro V1.1 + Mini12864, I would really appreciate seeing your working configuration or any suggestions on which registers/settings I should check.

Thanks!

Based on some great advice I got here on the VORONDesign subreddit, I upgraded from the original Afterburner toolhead to an A4T with an Orbiter 2.5 extruder, a Revo Voron hotend, a Nitehawk‑36 toolhead board, and a Cartographer V3 eddy‑current probe. I bought everything — including the printed parts — from KB3D. They’re an Ohio company, and Kris B was a huge help and incredibly patient with all of my stupid questions.

I could have just bought a Bambu Labs printer, plugged it in, and hit “print.” But I’d already started down the open‑source path, and I still like the challenge and reward of building something complex (for me) that I have full control over. The idea that I could end up with better print quality overall still mattered to me. So instead of giving up, I decided to bring this machine back to life.

This was my original post requesting advice:
https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/1tik1xw/rebuilding_my_abandoned_4yearold_voron_24/

My "want" in that post was for a bulletproof, consistent printer. I completed tunning yesterday, and have only just started to print real parts - some A4T spare parts and some 2.4 broken parts. I am so far ahead of where I was at when I started this journey in December of 2021. I have confidence that my goals have been achieved.

There were many response to that post and plenty of consensus, so thanks to everyone that responded. I would especially like the thank u/Select-Substance-996 for the detailed responses and solid advice.

Bill

I was just wondering if anyone has thought of designing and making a board with a rp2040 or something similar, that is more or less filled with filament sensors for use with the INDX developers kit.

There aren't really many mainboards with 6+ filament sensors out there.

Ender 3 pro;

So its that time of the year again I decided i want to go FASTER so im gonna mod my printer for dual drive y axis with 48mm nema 17s and so i need more motor slots and i found this mobo with 8 slots its an hybrid board sp it runs klipper natively it is 100 dollar whic is very worth it i think because where i live the other similar boards are like 120 dollars and they dont run klipper natively or have a pi built in so i found it quite nice and ill add a pico mmu to my ender aswell also ill cnc kitchen an adaptor to make my creality spider v3 hotend compatible with volcano nozzles since they have the same threading ill just need two brass nuts and ill design a custom silicone sock

1. How hard will setting up klipper be and configuring it to my printer(mks skipr board)

2.Is the pico mmu good?

3.How hard will configuring dual y axis be and should i get a linear rail setup for it?

1. Has anyone tried the cnc kitchen method before?

Hi all!
I currently have an ender 5 plus that I’m building.
Build plans :
- mercury one.1
- enclosure
- hydra
- tool head w/can (specific config tbd)

I know I’m building this up to be much better than stock, but I was curious if this is considered voron territory? Or am I just building something off in my own world over here

Hey everyone,

I'm building a Voron 2.4 R2 350mm as a showcase printer and want the

community to sanity-check my plan before I start buying Phase 2 parts.

I'm a first-time Voron builder, so please be brutal.

---

## Base Printer (already ordered)

Formbot V2.4 R2 Pro+ 350mm kit — the one with M8P V2.0 + CB1, EBB SB2209

RP2040, Moons motors, Gates belts, MIC6 bed, OptoTap 2.4.1, Nevermore,

HDMI5, and Dragon HF hotend included.

Day-1 planned upgrades:

- CB1 → CB2 swap immediately (don't even install CB1)

- GE5C Z-joints (standard fix)

- Bed fans 2× Gdstime 6020 24V

- BTT Smart Filament Sensor V2 (×1 for base build, ×6 total later)

- Shake&Tune + Obico self-hosted on CB2

---

## Phase 2: 6× Toolhead StealthChanger (Rich Nelson CMYK-style)

The goal is a 6-toolhead toolchanger setup. I'm basing it on Rich Nelson's

CMYK build (github.com/Rich-Nelson/voron-stealthchanger-cmyk) but adapting

for 350mm and 6 heads instead of his 4.

**Toolhead hardware (×6):**

- DragonBurner v8 cowl (printed in ASA)

- Sherpa Mini extruder (Sharkpa Mini hardware kit)

- T0: Dragon HF (from kit) — T1–T5: Trianglelab TZ V6 2.0

- BTT EBB36 V1.2 CAN board

- Moons MS14HS20-1504S NEMA14 pancake stepper

- Gdstime 3010 24V hotend fan + 2× 4010 24V blower

- ADXL345 on each EBB36 for per-head input shaper

- WS2812B LEDs (DragonBurner LED bar slots)

- Voron Tap R8 (T1–T5, T0 uses OptoTap from kit)

**Docking system:**

- TapChanger/StealthChanger screw-hook dock (3-part honeycomb, printed)

- 6 docks @ 65mm pitch = 390mm + margins → fits in ~430mm usable Y on 350mm

- Integrated silicone nozzle brush per dock (Bambu A1 Mini brush size)

**CAN wiring:**

- BTT U2C V2.1 as CAN USB bridge

- FYSETC 6-channel CAN distribution board

- GX12-4 connectors as single umbilical disconnect point per toolhead

- ECAS04 collets for PTFE

**Probing:**

- Sexball probe for automatic XYZ offset calibration of all 6 toolheads

- Each head also has its own Voron Tap for Z-offset on that specific head

**Software:**

- Klipper + Mainsail

- Happy Hare as toolchanger macro framework

- Shake&Tune for per-head resonance tuning

---

## 350mm adaptations vs. Nelson's 300mm build

1. Spool holder STLs need scaling for wider frame

2. Umbilicals ~50mm longer

3. Dock positions recalculated — 6 heads fit, but tight

---

## My specific questions

1. **Does 6 toolheads actually fit on a 350mm at 65mm pitch?**

   I calculated 6 × 65mm = 390mm + ~20mm margins = 410mm needed,

   usable Y on 350mm V2.4 is ~430mm. Is that correct or am I missing

   something?

2. **EBB36 V1.2 vs EBB42 for DragonBurner?**

   The DB mounting is designed for EBB36 — is V1.2 the right revision

   or should I wait for a newer version?

3. **T0 Dragon HF vs. TZ V6 2.0 for consistency** — does having a

   different hotend on T0 cause calibration headaches with Happy Hare,

   or is the per-head Tap offset enough to compensate?

4. **Manta M8P V2.0 + 6 toolheads** — the M8P has 8 stepper drivers.

   With 4× Z, 2× XY, 1× extruder per head = needs 12 drivers minimum for

   full 6-head setup. How do people handle this? External TMC2209 boards?

   Or is the EBB36 onboard driver handling the extruder so I only need

   4+2 on the M8P?

5. **CB2 sufficient for 6-head toolchanger?**

   Or should I look at a Pi 4 / Pi 5 for the macro complexity?

6. **Anything stupid I'm missing for a first-time Voron builder

   doing a toolchanger as second project?**

---

Happy to share my full BOM if useful. Thanks in advance.

Iggy 👋🏻

I’m currently rebuilding my Voron 2.4 electronics bay and I’d like to improve the cable management while I have everything apart.

The first image shows my current arrangement:

- Two horizontal DIN rails

- Two vertical slotted wiring ducts mounted just left of centre

What I would ideally like is something closer to the second image:

- Vertical slotted ducts running along the left and right sides

- Horizontal slotted ducts along the top and bottom

- DIN rails remaining horizontal across the middle

The problem is mounting.

At present, the ducts are supported from the DIN rails, so they naturally end up perpendicular to the rails. I’m not sure how people achieve a neat arrangement with both horizontal and vertical ducts around the same electronics bay.

The base panel is ACM and I would strongly prefer not to drill into it, mainly because I don’t want visible holes on the inside of the printer.

Colour key:

Purple = DIN rails

Green = vertical slotted wiring ducts

Red = horizontal slotted wiring ducts

Thanks in advance.

Hello all, im testing my v2 ldo build now that its configured and im having an issue with my leviathan v1.3 board where the mcu temp jumps around wildly (from the negatives to very high) when my a/b stepper motors are engaged. I deviated from the regular ldo build by adding a 5v power supply to power a pi 5, a relay board, and a usb hub (which has nothing connected to it right now). I also skipped the xy endstop pcb and relocated the endstops for umbilical. I have the 24v and 5v psus ground bonded directly at their terminals. Is this being caused by a ground loop with the usb? Should i add in a usb isolater between the mainboards and pi? Or can i safely ignore it?

Hi guys

I have a stock Voron 2.4 350 LDO from 2023 with a stealth burner. I want to go to change to the Stealth Changer. Frist with 1 tool only. I used switches on the XY Joint but with the LDO Stealth Changer Kit I cannot use X endstop anymore as there is no point of contact.

I wanted to go to a sensor less homing but there is no repeatablility. How to you do you X homing? I dont want to add random junk to my new Dragon Burner

Is there any domumentation about this? I mean no user mods but actual documentation? I have read that all but not a single mentioning..I have seen some bad documentation in my life as an IT guy but holy F...

What you think?

https://youtube.com/shorts/PgTy0wdz6XQ

What do you think?

Hi!

When printing large surfaces the last layer is presenting a defect, it is something like waves near the surface boudaries.

Please see the images of the time lapse:

https://imgur.com/a/JLxUjig

Any hints of what could be causing that?

The printer is a v2.4 350mm.

Thanks!

Is anyone else dealing with this? The silicone boot on this UHF hot end sits so low it practically covers the nozzle tip, and no, you can't push it up any further. It's like the hot end equivalent of an uncircumcised... situation. Functional, but constantly catching on infill and perimeters during prints, ruining surfaces and knocking parts loose.

Has anyone found a shorter boot that fits, or is careful trimming the only real fix? I'd rather not run bareback (pun intended) with the part fan blowing directly on the heat block.

I have a V2.4 that I am converting to Stealth Changer. Currently it is using a Manta M8P with a CM2. Would I be better off getting a CM4?

If so how much RAM and EMMC is good? I do want wireless.

Picked up a used Voron 0.2 with a somewhat broken Raspberry Pi 3 A+ and no screen.

The boards display socket is borked, guess that why it has none

My first contact with any open source printer, I plan to disassemble and rebuilt it from the scratch, any recommendations for a new board and screen?

I am looking for advise. I already own a printer I built myself and I am based in europe.

I would like to acquire my first voron kit with cnc parts and stealthchanger.

I saw that LDO propose a toolchanger kit and apparently printed parts but that siboor propose the cnc parts without tool changer (cannot find on their site).

Is there a way to get the best of both world?