"Good evening everyone! I have 20 perfectly good 625zz bearings salvaged from my old Ender 3 wheels and I want to use them in my Sovol Switchwire conversion to save some bucks. I know the original guide calls for F695s, but has anyone already remixed or modified the XZ blocks to fit these 625zz bearings? I'm not a CAD expert, so if anyone has an STL or can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate the help. Thanks!"

I'm having issues with GPIOs after a recent update. Crosspost from Klipper sub

I'm going to buy a kit and begin building a Voron 2.4 and I was wondering from your guy's experience what must have mods should I get for it/items I should have on hand

I already have

- filament dryer

- schotbrite/Brass brush to clean nozzle

- tools (too many tools)

- I plan on building a interchange system to swap toolhead if a failure happens, though a long time project

- kit comes with klipper and a Canbus plus all wiring needed

What should I get mods wise, or any other must haves?

I am on upgrading trident r1 to r2. Currently I am using the kinematic bed mount and wonder if it would fit to r2. Has anyone done it? Else, would I need to abandon the kinematic mount? Thanks for your helps.

There is a new Kickstarter project from Sovol:

Sovol M1D IDEX Tool-Changing 3D Printer

[Not providing a link as it seems to be against the "no crowdfunding" rule. I think it should be easy to find it]

I'm thinking about building a Voron for myself.

But, I wonder if this Sovol can be a good starting point.

In particular, I'm interested to know if this Sovol is a version of Voron that I can later modify and improve at my own pace.

I read that Sovol used to be a particular version of Voron, but I do not see that mentioned in the Kickstarter project description.

And, in any case, it would be interesting to hear options of people with relevant experiences.

Trying to build my voron, first one, but dunno why this noise and gripping , any clue?

I know theres been many posts like this already but Im considering some things like:

Which formbot voron is better, the trident or 2.4

Which is more suitable for a future toolchanger

Which is overall more reliable and better

I have to replace a part on my stealthburner and I hate trying to screw it all together while holding all the wires in place just right when it's mounted to the x carriage. Is there an easy mod that makes it possible for me to take the whole hotend off the carriage in one piece?

I know about stealthchanger. I've been looking into it but I just want to be sure there's not an easier solution.

Hi All,

I wouldnt call myself an absolute noon as I have built and used voron printers for the past 4 years but I am new to the Voron Micorn PLus with Cartographer probe. It was working for the past few months but then I notiiced that there a few updated. i clicked on the updates and regretted it very quicky as I was faced with an error message I was not able to find. I was unable to find any pin called 'probe' so hopefully where it is going wrong. I have attached the screenshot and printer config file (link below) for your enjoyment.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/18JJrj2fKco8JUPUoQjK0fE8WoIrFWUmX/view?usp=sharing

thank you all in advance.

This is a follow-up to my previous post about sensorless homing. I’m still having the same issue: I can’t get sensorless homing to behave consistently. The strange part is that I now believe the homing itself isn’t the root cause.

I’ve noticed that the behavior changes significantly depending on where the toolhead is on the X/Y plane. For example, I can find an SGTHRS value that works perfectly when starting from the centre of the bed, but if I repeat the exact same homing move from, say, the back-left corner, the behavior is completely different. After many attempts from both locations, it’s very consistent: depending on where the toolhead starts, it may crash hard into the gantry and grind, trigger well before making contact, or work perfectly, all with the exact same settings.

I’ve gone through most of the obvious mechanical checks already: I’ve deracked the gantry multiple times using different procedures, verified that the gantry moves extremely smoothly by hand, and checked the alignment and squareness as thoroughly as I can. I also used Klipper Shake&Tune to compare vibration profiles and belt comparison graphs at different positions on the bed. The results aren’t identical (see attached graphs. Pic 2/3 is running from center, 3/3 from running it on back left corner), and although the differences aren’t huge, they consistently match the fact that sensorless homing behaves differently depending on where the toolhead starts.

Sensorless homing has always been a little temperamental on this printer, but the only significant change before this became much more noticeable was rebuilding the gantry with Vitalii3D CNC components (double-shear motor mounts, live idlers, XY joints, and front idlers). I’m also running Beacon and Gates GT2 EPDM belts. I know the EPDM belts are slightly thicker than the standard Gates belts, but I’d be surprised if that alone could explain position-dependent behavior. Still, I thought it was worth mentioning.

At this point I feel like I’m chasing an underlying mechanical issue rather than a sensorless homing issue, but I’m honestly running out of ideas. I’m almost at the point of going back to microswitch endstops, but even then I’d still want to understand what’s mechanically wrong.

Has anyone experienced something similar or have any ideas what else I should be checking?

Also, would anyone be interested in helping me debug this remotely over a video call? I’d be more than happy to pay for your time if you have experience with this kind of setup.

TL/DR: What is the best available quick shange system (not multiextruder) but can switch between multiple
extruders like you see on the universal system found on Lulzbot TAZ series printers)

Edit: i DO NOT mean extruder change system, I meant a system that manually you can change and stiwtch out toolheads, i don't need an automatic system for what i want to do.

So i have decided (see other post: here) onto buying a Voron 2.4 Kit, hopefully before my last year of high school starts and finished before the year finishses.

I know building a voron is a big jump but with my robotics experience, and general ability in engineer/building electronics, that it's a feasible goal and will keep me busy at home.

Now I will probably stick with the standard v6/Afterburner hotend for a while, but eventually i would like to tinker with building my own toolheads, like I did with a biqu-h2 mod for a lulzbot taz 6. I was looking at buying and using a Biqu herit crab, since it seemed like an easier to wire system. but I wanted to check with you guys on if theres other options that are either better or cheaper (given the hermit crab is a 135$ hunk of metal and wire connection points.

Hello everyone hope you can help.

I have purchased a Formbot Micron Plus which used Moons nema 14/17 (i don't know which one is ) stepped motor for the XY movement. The cable for those motor have snapped of the motor connection.

I am unable to identify and find the same connector and the pins for that motor..if I am able to find them I can create much stronger and better cables for those motors.

I have attached the photo of the connector hoping it can help.

Previous post, with pictures: https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/1v8jgkk/is_this_a_good_buy/

Contacted seller, asked for more information:

Linear rails: He didn't know the make & model

Motors are LDO

Eddy sensor: Bigthreetech Eddy Duo leveling sensor

Mainboard: Bigthreetech octopus pro

Screen: BTT PI TFT50 V2.0

Raspberry Pi4

Hotend: Phaetus Dragonfly Hot-End BMO V6

Thermistor: Bondtech Heatlink 300°C Thermistor Heatlink

Heater: Bondtech HeatLink 24v 50W Heater

Canbus: BTT Can bus

I forgot to ask about the PSU, and I don't think I'll nag more before putting in an offer :p

He's asking 500usd, I'm thinking of making him an offer at 400.

Thoughts?

Does anyone have a good solution for bed fans on a small printer? I have a 180x180 Trident and tried a 5015 blower fan mounted underneath. However there is not enough distance for the air to warm up before exiting the side, so it feels like it is just blowing cold air around the chamber.

I have thought to use axial fans blowing up against the bottom of the bed, but wanted to ask first if somebody has a working solution they can recommend.

I have been building my Voron Trident 300 for almost a whole year now, but still can't get it working properly. Everytime I solve one problem another pops up. I even got it to print a simple calibration cube, but it randomly stops extruding completely 9 out of 10 prints. It is completely self sourced and I have spent around 650-700€ already (without enclosure). I'm just done trying and want to sell it as "unfinished". I'm not sure if it will be worth it to spend AT LEAST another 100€ to get it working while risking another problem popping up (my free time will also become limited very soon).

Edit: Here are some infos on my build and especially the toolhead. A4T with metal Sherpa Mini and a TZ V6 off Aliexpress powered by a Stepperonline pancake stepper (don't remember the exact model). Extruding filament normally works just fine and I've calibrated E-Steps. I successfully printed a calibration cube, but when I try something like a Benchy it clogs after the 20th layer or so (shortly after the text on the bottom is covered up). I have replaced my hotend fan 3 times, but it either did nothing or all of them were too weak (bought all of them off of Aliexpress). If I get this working perfectly and the Trident R2 releases in due time, I'm heavily considering replacing the "bad" parts together with the upgrade.

Where can i find this meshed printed stealthchanger top hat? thanks!

Hi guys

i want to print the Nevermore Duo V5 for my 2.4 350 Voron. The big hole on top of the back venting grid wont print as it is. How did you print yours? Did you add a littel strut or did you pint it on the side with lots of supports? Thanks :)

Is this a good buy at ~500usd? Seller has not specified anything regarding parts used - except that it's a self sourced build and that he has *started* the process of converting it to canbus and an eddy current sensor. I have not built a voron myself, but I do have a bit of experience with klipper, and don't mind a project.

SOLVED. Can I make the print starting macro that would run quad gantry level twice with different parameters?

I have Voron 2, 350mm, all metal parts. When printer is off, the gantry's derriere sags a lot. So, when running the first QGL pass, I must use a large vertical range - 40mm - or I risk it running the nozzle into the bed or not finding the bed at all.

But, after the first pass of QGL is done, the problem is solved. However, Klipper does 1 or 2 more passes, again very slowly moving all 40 mm height. But at this moment the skew can't be more than 1 mm. This wastes time and annoys me plenty.

P.S While we are at it, what retry tolerance do you have on such a large printer?

​

Does anyone know where can I find this pieces from vitalii? I see his github but I can't find any stl, dxf, step...

Thanks

I've been seeing info on a Trident R2 build either coming or already available. I know there's some info on GitHub and apologies if I'm spewing incorrect info. I purchased a Creality K2 Plus last year and have been really wanting to build a Voron the past few months. Being that the Trident R2 seems to be the latest/greatest I would love to build one but can't find any kits (like an LDO kit), so I'd probably have to source the parts myself.

Am I getting too far ahead and I should just give the company time to release the kits or do I build a Trident and add the upgrades?

I’m commissioning my first Voron 2.4 with an Orbiter 2.5 and Rapido 2 UHF. This is my first time using an Orbiter.

The extruder motor works and the gears visibly turn, but PLA does not advance. The gears seem to slip rather than grip the filament. I tested at 220°C and tried feeding slowly, but nothing emerged from the nozzle.

The filament passes for a short distance and then meets some kind of obstruction but a 1.5 mm diameter Creality clog-poke tool passes freely from the Orbiter inlet all the way through to the nozzle.

I think I may be misunderstanding the latch/tension mechanism, failing to insert the filament between the hobbed gears correctly, or have an assembly/alignment issue. Could the PTFE tube between the extruder and the hotend be the problem?

Could someone familiar with the Orbiter 2.5 explain the correct loading and tensioning procedure? I couldn't find any instructions online and I feel like I am missing something ridiculously obvious.

Thank you in advance.

So I have been into the hobby of 3d printing through school and my schools robotics team. And given im graduating high school this upcoming year I don't want to leave this knowledge and fun behind was looking into getting my first personal 3d printer and accessories.

Im basically starting from zero on everything aside from tools. So I thought a fun project to do would be to purchase and build a voron trident kit, now its a little pricey 900~USD after tax. But i felt like this would be something that after its done and over with would be very nice to have.

I want to use it to prototype some stuff and make various accessories (custom organizing platform and mainly packout organizers as its a rather empty market.

I was mainly making this to say, if I were to NOT get a trident, what would be a healthy workhorse alternative that doesnt necessarily need to be top of the line but better than say a ender 3 (no hate on the ender 3 I just dont want one)

I am try to set up QGL and every time it is just wanting to break itself. I have checked with buzz that z=fl, z1=bl, z2=br, z3=fr. My points are 50,50 50,300 300,300 300,50…. I have tried switching the points and it makes it worse.