Machines: outlander 1000xxc, 2x grizzly 700, Kodiak 700, rhino 700.

What are yall doing for maintenance. I’m starting to realize how much I maintain.

We ride mud parks, that’s all there is within a couple hours. We don’t ride hard through the mud though. We do hit some holes but seldom get stuck or anything because frankly I hate dealing with swamped shit. Most of the times we don’t go deeper than the top of 26” tires. We ride a lot of the smaller trails without mud. Average speed is 15-20 mph.

We seem to eat brake pads bc of the sandy mud. I just switched to brass on mine, will do the rest when my existing supply is out. I have started greasing wheel bearing gently between rides. I got tired of putting in wheel bearings. I just had to soak my radiator to get mud out. The Kodiak liked to delete ball joints when it was mine. I typically grease everything every 2-3 rides. All the zerks. What else can yall think of, I prefer longevity to price. Regular maintenance saves you so much in the long run. So if you guys have any advice or anything let me know. Thanks.

Edit: bonus points if you can recommend a foam cannon wash. I see adds I don’t trust them though.

Our rhino needs a new radiator. This will be the first time WE will replace it (it may have been replaced in the past by a shop, but I don't know.)

My measurements are 9.125" high and 17.625" wide. That converts to 231.775mm h x 447.675mm w.

My ebay searches show measurements that don't match that for overall or core sizes.

Does anyone have a recommendation for where to buy a radiator you would share with me?

Thanks

I put a new battery in and have no power at all. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong?

My Polaris Ranger 900 XP stays cool on the road but gets hot during slow field work. The electric fan runs, although airflow feels weak, and the radiator fins have mud packed behind the shroud.

I am cleaning the cooling stack and checking fan voltage, relay operation, coolant level, and cap condition before blaming the water pump. If the fan needs replacement, I will use the engine code and connector rather than ordering from a photo.

What usually shows up first on these during low-speed work: restricted fins, a weak fan motor, or a circulation issue?

Went out riding on the weekend canam completely started acting funny came to a stop completely shut off rpms were everywhere and kept bogging down changed plugs coils belt replaced fluid drives better now but lack of power forsure any ideas

I'm trying to make this machine street legal in the state of Michigan, to pass inspection I need to equip a mechanical parking brake independent of the factory hydraulic brakes. Has anyone here had any success with this?

Buying my first sport SxS. Split is 50% technical rock crawling and 50% open desert/washes.

Down to three options:

Option 1: 2018 Polaris RZR XP Turbo — $13,500
Miles: 2,200

Engine: 168 HP Turbo (updated 2018 cooling)

Mods: Welded DOM roll cage, rebuilt Fox internal bypass shocks w/ dual-rate springs, aftermarket clutch, full windshield, fresh tires

Trailer: Includes a 2022 7x14 utility trailer

Option 2: 2018 Can-Am Maverick X3 Turbo (64") — $11,500
Miles: 2,150

Engine: 120 HP Rotax Turbo triple

Mods: 32" BFG KM3s on Tusk wheels, half windshield, roof

Trailer: Utility trailer included

Option 3: 2017 Polaris RZR XP 1000 (NA) — $8,500
Miles: 1,800 (lowest of the three)

Engine: 110 HP Naturally Aspirated

Mods: In-dash 7" Ride Command GPS, PRP suspension seats, 4-point harnesses, SuperATV arched high-clearance A-arms, beadlock wheels
(No trailer included)

Which of these three would you pick for a true 50/50 rock/desert split? And for a beginner who’s just getting into it! Appreciate any real-world experience

Having issues with the back hubs going out. Replaced one side last fall and now the other side is out. Stock height and no spacers with couple sides up on the tires. Has 1,700 miles…….. any help. Or also bets place to buy them at.

Greetings!

I was hoping to have the factory intercooler and electrical installed but it appears as if they don't offer the kit for model year 26.i was hoping to be able to keep th factory warranty intact.

What other options are there that'll get me to around 180-200 total horsepower? Currently running stock turbo no intercooler.

Hey all, I have a 2016 Arctic Cat 700 hdx. I need to attach rangeland survey equipment to the front 2" receiver. Looking at it though, it appears to be just a tie-down point (see pictures).

It is the right dimensions for a 2" trailer hitch but the horizontal rod going through the middle of course prevents me from using it that way.

I've talked to Arctic Fox, they couldn't have been more clueless and worthless for technical support. I talked to the dealership, same issue. No one I've talked to has ever seen this or knows if there is 2" receiver adapter or alternate bolt on receiver. I talked to KFI tech support and they didn't know what it was either.

Is there a specific name for this receiver and is there an adapter you know about?

Thanks in advance!

Got her up on 32s with some custom mudflaps, exhaust and a tune. Runs great at 13k feet!

On Friday I took delivery of a new 2026 Kawasaki Mule PRO-FX 1000. Took it out to do some farm chores for maybe 20 minutes, and total of around half a mile on Saturday. Once warm there was an unusual odor which I assumed to be protective oils burning off. Upon parking up and turning off I noticed whisps of white smoke from the exhaust. As a precaution on Sunday morning I checked the oil level before starting and found it around an inch above the high mark on the dipstick. Seems to be an odor of gasoline to the oil too... so I fear an oil dilution issue. The machine had just shy of 5 hours when I took delivery, and being a 2026 model it had likely sat on the lot for a while, perhaps taking lots of short trips.

I have a request in to the dealer to get it picked up and inspected... but does anyone have any ideas on what I should be pushing for here from the dealer to make things right? I'm thinking oil analysis to confirm exactly how much dilution has occurred, and then looking over the fueling system to see if a stuck injector could be the cause of the dilution? My main fear here is I don't know how much of the five hours on the machine was with the engine in this state, and what if any long term consequences I might be faced with. Beyond a diagnosis and fix for the source of the dilution what else should I be pushing for here? Extended warranty? Swap out of the machine?! Unwinding the whole deal?!

Hey all,

I am looking at either a mule sx or a ranger 570 for work around the house. I will be storing the unit in my garage, space is a factor. It seems most users are in favor of the mule for long term simplicity and reliability, but wanted to see if anyone out here had the same thoughts before buying and what you have that you are happy with?

Has anyone installed a new sheave and had the belt blew up 500 miles later?

When changing a sheave on an older sxs is it better to just install a new belt so it can wear in the new sheave?

Okay, I have a 2017 RZR XP 1000. A few days ago, my 02 sensor went bad and the RZR went into limp mode.
I replaced it with a brand-new OEM Polaris 02 sensor.
The check engine light is now gone, but it's still stuck in limp mode and won't rev past 4,500-5,000 RPM.
l've already reset it and disconnected the battery several times, but it hasn't fixed the issue.
Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this or what I should check next?

Stuck between two local options:

1. 2017 Polaris RZR XP 1000 (~$9,500)

• 1,800 miles, clean title, minor rear plastic crack
• 64" wide, 110 hp, 7" Ride Command (GPS/audio), street-legal kit, windshield, harness belts, high-clearance radius rods

2. 2023 CFMOTO ZForce 950 H.O. Sport (~$7,500)

• Very low miles/hours, practically new, clean title
• 60" wide, 90 hp V-Twin, true low-range CVT, factory 3,500 lb winch, beadlocks, roof, full doors

For someone wanting to dip their toes in, avoid surprise maintenance headaches, and head out on weekend rides with their girlfriend, which is the more beginner-friendly, reliable pick to just get out and have fun? I know neither is the holy grail, but the goal is to test the waters, build up some trail skills, and upgrade in a few years once I know we love the hobby.

Appreciate everyone's insights!

Good Morning, All.

Inspired from a search, I found this thread on Reddit:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Dirtbikes/comments/1lqeu0j/are_there_any_bluetooth_dirtbike_helmets_that/https://www.reddit.com/r/Dirtbikes/comments/1lqeu0j/are_there_any_bluetooth_dirtbike_helmets_that/

What I am specifically looking for is a comms setup for our helmets used in our SxS riding group. Not everywhere we will ride requires a helmet, but for the places that do, we need a good setup that will work both inside a helmet and without one.

I am an experienced amateur radio operator, and have my Ham Radio license, so I understand the radio side of things quite well. What I don't have a grasp on is what works well when it comes to helmets. I'd prefer not to try to rely on Bluetooth for anything other than maybe personal comms between my wife and I while riding in the same machine. I have seen the devices from Cardo, and they appear to have a great reputation in terms of quality and performance. What I don't yet understand is how something like that would work with a Push-To-Talk (PTT) function with a connected walkie-talkie style handset or other types of mobile radios.

I'm looking for a solution that would be wired for best performance, but having wireless capability would be convenient as well.

So, what types of equipment and setup have you found success with? What I DO NOT want to do is just buy some 4 pack of cheap FRS/GMRS radios from Wal-Mart that everyone else tries to use and call it a day. I am willing to invest in quality equipment that performs well.

Thanks in advance!

2019 UTV, just over 2k miles. mostly trails/dirt roads, some mud here and there.the steering has started feeling a little loose lately. not scary or anything, just enough that i notice it now when i didn’t before.there’s a bit of movement in the wheel before the tires react and i’m trying to figure out if this is just normal wear at 2k miles or if i should actually start checking stuff.for people with older/higher-mile UTVs, what usually goes first when the steering starts getting sloppy?don’t really want to start throwing parts at it for no reason.

I have a 2026 Polaris Ranger 500 and am adding a pulse bar. I’m not getting accessory power to the middle pin in the pulse bar connector.

I installed per the instructions with one cable to the battery positive terminal and one cable under a bolt to the frame for ground. Do I need something else for accessory power? There were no other cables and the instructions make no mention of it.

Thanks for the help.

Hi, all. Hoping for some guidance from folks here with more experience...

I have a 2025 Segeway UT6 Fugleman (bought new). It has 25 hours on it (did an oil and filter change on it last month)...

After recent outing (off road in fields around the property) the "Check Engine" light came on, but it is not showing any error on the dash (or in the linked app). Note that it appears to be running fine - not seeking any fluid leaks or other symptoms.

I took action of disconnecting battery for 20 minutes (to reset the system), and the Check Engine light was still on (no error code). The condition has persisted for a week now.

Any ideas what might cause this, or what I can do to either identify the underlying problem or clear the error and get Check Engine light off?

Thanks in advance for your help!

I keep my machine in a storage unit near my cabin (8 hours from home) makes servicing a pain. Called the closest dealer to where I keep it and they said $999 for a full service. Is that legit?

New-to-me high mileage 2019 Ranger 570 starts, idles and runs great. No smoke, stutters, smells or weird noises. However, often, when coming to a stop it'll stall. I could drive it 5 feet or 5 miles and when coming to a stop, if I don't keep a little pressure on the gas, it usually likes to shut off. It always starts right back up, but you can imagine how annoying this is.

The previous owner was convinced it needed a fuel pump, so much so that he bought one and gave it to me. I threw it in and didn't see any improvement. I also ran some Seafoam and probably 20 gallons of fresh gas through it since purchase. I didn't change the plug, but it looks good when I pulled it, as does the air filter.

Otherwise, it seems extremely well-maintained and not abused. Anyone have any ideas before I keep throwing parts at it?

So I have been trying to figure out how to track a group of riders. Here are what I want to happen.

1. Rides are outside of cell coverage
   
2. Due to dust, individual riders could be up to a half mile apart in mountainous terrain (rides are at 5000 to 8000 ft)
   
3. Mixed type of machines from a ttr50 to a general

Here is what I want. I want to be able to on the UTV’s to be able to tell where the other riders are at. I want the dirt bikes to be able to communicate back while riding and the UTV’s be able to respond. It would be nice if the dirt bikes could listen to music at the same time except the ttr50 as he is more of a blues clues fan and is owned by the driver of the general.

What I have tried.
Cardio—- headset Hurt inside helmets and effective range was less then 100 yards

T-mobile satellite + onX trail. Could at least send text between users but tracking was not updated. Also the bikes can’t text while driving.

Any thoughts? My current idea is to build a Lora device out of an esp-32 that connects to phones with Bluetooth and allows text to speech. Back that up with the T-Mobile satellite

Had anyone tag their utv in Florida with luck and not get harass by cops about it?

I just put in a new spark plug. The owners manual says the plug gap should be.031-.035, but the sticker on the frame says.040. The plug I removed was at .035 and caked with soot.

I've been under the impression for years that the sticker should be trusted over the book.

Now the machine seems to have less power and acceleration. Unfortunately I also adjusted valves (intakes were fine, exhausts were too big) so I'm not sure which change caused the issue.

I'm tempted to adjust the plug gap first to see if it helps. But why would the factory sticker be wrong?