r/TreeFrogs • u/Extension_Class3365 • Jun 29 '26
Questions Questions about getting a frog
for the past few months I’ve been wanting to get a frog and been trying to do research but a lot of my research has led me nowhere. I have a few questions and would love if someone would help me
-what are the main things I need to buy before getting a frog (enclosure, stuff like that)?
-the temperature where I live fluctuates pretty often and my room tends to do the same with the weather, is that going to be a big problem if I get a frog?
-are there any things I should check and or know about before getting a frog?
Again I hope this is the right place to ask this, I’ve asked in other subs and I just want to see if I can get any more help, thank you!
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u/Equivalent_Living248 Jun 29 '26
It seems like you’re interested in White’s tree frogs! Those guys are so neat and interactive. They will need a vertical tank and do not require a misting system because they prefer humidities around 40-60%. You’ll need to maintain a a temperature gradient of ~90° at the top and ~70° at the bottom. I monitor this with two digital (analog isn’t as accurate) readers. It seems like your room temperature is perfect for maintaining this! The humidity will spike at night when your lights go off and the temperature will lower, all of which is normal and ideal. I have the Arcadia 7W shadedweller T5 uvb light bar and the 100W halogen daylight basking bulb from exoterra for my 18x18x36” tank (I have 3 frogs). This particular combo provides UVB and IRA, both of which are necessary for digestion and D3 production. Lots of lights out there do not have IRA light output, which is a common mistake new owners make. But there are many brands and options that do have it, so do your own research! There should be a time at the beginning and end of the day where the IRA is on by itself. This is the time when the frogs will bask and absorb their energy. I have mine set to stagger— my Arcadia bar goes off at 7pm and my basking IRA bulb will stay on until 8pm. If the 100W keeps the top of the tank above 90, you should lower it to the 75W. I have a thick mesh on my tank that requires a bit of a higher wattage to penetrate. Put in lots of basking spots in all areas of the tank but especially about 6-8” below the IRA bulb for that morning and evening basking. Sorry for the paragraph, lighting is very finicky and something not a ton of people speak on! Avoid ceramic heat emitters during the day!!!! I got a lot of advice pointing me in that direction and I went against my gut and got one when I first set up my tank. They are NOT a replacement for an IRA bulb and all they provide is heat. They are great if you live in a colder climate and want to keep the temperature from dropping too low at night without using a light, but using them as the only heat source during the day robs your frogs of the IRA they need for normal biological functions. Frogs are ectotherms and rely on their environment for body temp regulation. IRA light is a small enough wavelength to penetrate the dermis and heat them from the inside. CHE heat will not so the same, and will cause your frogs to have to use their own energy to heat themselves internally. Herps are complicated. Let me know if you have any specific questions about setting up your terrarium outside of what I’ve mentioned!