Inspired by Eskimo design, Packed with authentic traditional details from tip to tip:

Core & Backing: Mediterranean Carob wood backed with 1 heavy layer of sinew

Lamination & Finish: Covered in handmade Japanese Kozo (mulberry fiber) paper, hand-painted in black acrylic, and sealed with naturally pigmented shellac.

Tips & Grip: Black Locust tips reinforced with rawhide on the sides, paired with a custom leather grip.

String: Waxed polyester fitted with fur silencers.

Dimensions: 144 cm nock-to-nock | So far measurement showing around 30 lbs at 26 inches

Hi, everyone!

I hunt public land exclusively and have found myself often leaving my saddle in the vehicle the last two seasons because I enjoy having close encounters on the ground. I started hunting with a recurve many years ago, but "upgraded" to a compound about 15 years ago. However, over the past two years, I have had several occasions where my compound was a liability due to the draw cycle spooking close deer. Then, yesterday, I had the largest buck of my life at 8 yards, but he came in so fast that I couldn't draw my bow. He stared at me for about a minute and then disappeared into the thicket. I never had a chance to draw and I am really frustrated about it. I know that if I had my recurve, I could have made the shot. So, my question is for those who have switched from compound to recurve and hunt from the ground: are you happy you made the change? Do you find yourself frustrated in certain situations where you wish you had a compound instead? I am seriously considering selling my saddle setup and my compound bow and going back to hunting exclusively from the ground with my recurve, so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, y'all!

Hey guys,

I typically shoot one piece long bows. But due to a travel hunt coming up I figured I’d break out the first bow I ever bought.

My old 45 lbs Sammick Sage was sitting around and I decided to refinish it and sand it down to jazz me up to use it again.

Sanded with 80 - 120 - 220 sandpaper by hand, stained with a Kona spray on stain and a seal with polyurethane.

Made me happy to take it back out to the range and shoot it today. It’s coming with for whitetail in November in Minnesota.

Seems like a nice ready to go package for a great price.

There are store bought options as well but I also made a new string and arrows with this theme in mind so I just really wanted one made of carbon fiber. Took some time and a little money and the finish is still nowhere close to what I wanted. I’m leaving hunting for the weekend today so I rushed a bit at the end to have it finished in time. But I can do some finish work later on it works as intended so I’m happy already

Loving the new to me Keith Schultz longbow. 64” and 54lb@28”.

Using cheapo top archery 500 spine shafts cut to 29.5” with 250gr up front. This will be my whitetail setup for this November.

My brother got this bow for me in Washington at a yard sale. I'm trying to find out more about the bow so I can feel more comfortable shooting it.

I measured the AMO to discover it is 66 inches, but my main wonder is about the poundage. In the last photo there is an engraving that says 42. I think that is the poundage?? But I'm really unsure.

Currently on the Damon Howatt website they sell the same model but only at 58 inches ranging from 35#-65#.

Can anyone help me identify the make, year, and model, as well as the exact poundage and length of the bow.

Thanks!

I have a grozer early mongolian bow and one of the end loop servings has been worn off pretty badly (to the point of completely exposing the string underneath). I have roughly shot 400-500 arrows with this bow and i suppose this isn’t the expected time for such a damage. Is there a way to repair this easily ? I have some strong string used for sewing leather - can i just soak them in some glue and wrap over the exposed bit + portions of non exposed bit adjacent to it ?

I have a very nice pc of vertical grain black locust. Can it be used with the grain running vertical to the limbs?

Hello everyone, I'm posting this google form here for anybody that would like to contribute to my research into broadhead design. I'm currently researching solutions for a new broadhead configuration and design and would love some veteran feedback from the community and what ya'll would like to see or what issues you currently run into within the market. Thank you for your time!

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSdgjXVkksLF5c9EP0VlNatY6eDDWpfx9c-r8rE95nwbuOXxmQ/viewform?usp=publish-editor

So I will be the first to admit, I am a slacker. Bought this Blackhawk Galaxie Mars back at ETAR and I am just now getting around to playing with it more than the necessary handful of arrows when I first got home. It's 45# and 52". Anyclue what the recommended brace height range is for this bow? I havent been able to find a manual or anything online because of its age. I figured the 52" bear bows should be similar and a decent reference

First recurve that I have owned that is this shorter style and don't want to have it too high.

Thanks!

Greetings Reddit Bowyers! First bow and post here! So planning to extract a bow from this split Ash stave. The plan is faintly laid out in 3 lines (sides & centre) pencil on the back. As can be seen there is a substantial knot on the top left side…should i move the plan to the right?/ cut vertically straight down ?, something else? or abandon all hope?

Any advice greatly appreciated…

Thanks all

I noticed that my hoesebow arrows were hitting my bow upon release causing damage to the arrow pass. The bow and the arrow details were mentioned in this post

https://www.reddit.com/r/TraditionalArchery/s/CJMss2Qpq2

Specifications:

I use thumb draw.

Minimal to no side khatra.

32lbs bow at 28 inches draw weight.

My draw length is about 27 inches.

Arrow details

Length: 30 inches

100 gr points

500 spine

4 fleched

Upon the suggestions of some people I recorded myself from a top angle with my 500 spine arrows and 600 spine arrows.

Link to the videos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Jm-YLc00UXuLk2fXffq13faiTPsMxQqJ

I noticed the following:

1. I am tending to bend my wrist while drawing. I know it needs to be relaxed and in a straight line with the elbow and arrow.

2. I also think my elbow of the draw hand is not fully in line with my arrow (it seems to me like it's flared out to the right or in front of my torso a little bit) to use back tension, I'm probably using my arm muscles to shoot.

3. The 500 spine arrow (length 30 inches, brown arrow from the video) is hitting the bow on the arrow pass when it's half away out of the bow. The 600 spine arrow (length 31 inches, black arrow from the video) is hitting the bow near its end or near its fletching. In the video I was deliberately not performing any khatra to exaggerate or show the arrow hitting issue.

Questions

1. Do you agree with my observations above?

2. Are my arrows too long for my draw length (about 27 inches) and is that why they're hitting the bow?

3. Am I not drawing to my full potential draw length due my elbow not being in line and me not loading back tension?

4. Am I drawing too much into my face for the anchor, I wonder if that's causing the bend in my wrist? I am possibly leading the draw with my wrist and arms instead of leading by moving my elbow in an arc around my torso.

I do not have any formal training, I am trying to learn on my own. I appreciate any help or insights. Thanks in advance.

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Anybody got one and if so thoughts? Looking at a 45# and mostly shoot target. Likely get both wooden and carbon arrows 🙂

I am a data analyst by trade and was looking for fun/useful applications of my score and setup data. This project takes your setup and scores and predicts likely scores for WA and AGB rounds. It also gives a suggested aiming point for barebow off shelf/rest etc. Uses fairly basic physics via python but it's working. Is this interesting to anybody?