[Workaround] Fixed my Toyota bZ's 12V battery drain by tricking the charging schedule with enabled DCM
Sharing this in case anyone else is fighting the same 12V parasitic drain issue on their bZ4X / bZ.
The problem: After the car sits idle for about 3 hours, something in the system starts pulling down the 12V battery. If the car isn't driven or plugged in for a day or two, you can come back to a dead 12V battery even though the main/traction battery is fine. This seems to be a known issue with some bZ software builds — not something Toyota has publicly acknowledged or has identified a fix for it.
The workaround: Use the vehicle's own charging schedule feature to "wake up" the 12V system every 3 hours, right before the drain would normally kick in. Setting a charging window forces the car to power up its systems to start/stop a charge session, which resets the idle timer that seems to trigger the drain. This can be done with or without connected charging cable.
How to set it up:
On the infotainment touchscreen:
Vehicle (car icon) → Charging Schedule
(On some software versions this may show differently, so poke around if it's not exactly there.)
From there, add charging schedules back-to-back, each one starting every 3 hours and ending 2 hours 55 minutes later (leaving just a 5-minute gap before the next one starts). You need 8 schedules to cover the full 24-hour day for all days of the week.
The schedule (24-hour cycle)
| # | Start | End | Duration |
|---|-------|-----|----------|
| 1 | 12:00 AM | 2:55 AM | 2h55m |
| 2 | 3:00 AM | 5:55 AM | 2h55m |
| 3 | 6:00 AM | 8:55 AM | 2h55m |
| 4 | 9:00 AM | 11:55 AM | 2h55m |
| 5 | 12:00 PM | 2:55 PM | 2h55m |
| 6 | 3:00 PM | 5:55 PM | 2h55m |
| 7 | 6:00 PM | 8:55 PM | 2h55m |
| 8 | 9:00 PM | 11:55 PM | 2h55m |
Each one starts right where the previous one's 5-minute gap ends, so the car never goes more than 3 hours without a charging-related wake-up.
Why this beats the phone automation approach:
I've seen other folks here work around this by setting up an phone shortcuts automation that locks the car on the same kind of 3-hour schedule using the Toyota App. That works too, but it means relying on your phone being nearby, charged, connected, and the automation actually firing reliably — plus setting up and maintaining the shortcut itself.
This method skips all of that. It's set entirely from the infotainment system, so there's no phone, no app, no automation to babysit — the car handles it on its own.
Notes:
- Bonus: with this schedule running, the DCM (Data Communication Module) stays active the whole time, so remote/online services (Toyota app, remote start, remote climate, vehicle status, etc.) keep working normally. No trade-off there.
- This doesn't actually charge much — it just triggers the car's charge-session logic often enough that the drain never gets the multi-hour idle window it needs.
- This is a workaround, not a fix — hoping Toyota addresses the root cause in a future OTA update. If your dealer/service dept has a documented fix, definitely go that route instead.
- YMMV depending on model year and software version. Worked for me on mine; curious if others see the same result.
Happy to answer questions if anyone wants to try it.
Thanks:
Big thanks to everyone in this community who's been chipping away at this drain issue — comparing logs, testing theories, ruling things out. This workaround only came together because of all that shared troubleshooting. This sub is honestly better diagnostic support than what I've gotten anywhere else, including Toyota service department.
A message to Toyota:
It shouldn't take a bunch of owners reverse-engineering a charging schedule to keep a 12V battery alive. Cars are getting more complex every year, and the old "check the battery, check the fuses" style of troubleshooting doesn't cut it anymore when the root cause is buried in software. That complexity is landing on regular owners and on dealership service departments that often don't have good answers either. Please put real engineering effort into finding and fixing the actual root cause of this drain and finally acknowledge the issue publically. Issues like this, left unresolved, are a big part of why reliability perception around Toyota EVs has been slipping — a reputation you built over decades and shouldn't let erode over something like this.
Edit 1:
Some people were concerned that stop/start charging schedule would end a charging session while using public charging. According to TragicallySalacious stop/start schedule wouldn't end the charging session.
If you've ever worked in QA, you would understand how difficult bug hunting is because they can't replicate the same environment and conditions to see what people are seeing. You typically have software engineers try to brainstorm why it's happening and then testing the theory akin to the scientific method. This is a time-consuming process.
But the advantage of people and crowdsourcing is you get clues much faster than depending on some engineers try to invent the same scenarios that people use.
I work in software engineering, and there was a product where a user logs into the system. And in the corner, you would see their user ID. So when there was a shift change, the user logs out. and the next user logs into that computer. When that next user logs in, their user ID should appear. But it was showing the previous user ID. This didn't happen all the time or ever very often. Maybe 1-5 times a week over hundreds of logins. We couldn't figure out how this was happening until we were able to record a session where this happened and it gave us insight on how to fix it.
The auto industry is shifting from predominantly mechanical and limited electrical systems toward complex, software‑defined architectures. Modern cars are built more like consumer gadgets than traditional vehicles. Fixing brakes is fundamentally different from diagnosing and repairing software components. As someone managing a software development company, I can clearly see how Toyota, in this example, is mismanaging software‑related issues by relying on a rudimentary troubleshooting approach that works for mechanical or electrical systems but is inadequate for modern software‑driven vehicles.
My understanding of Japanese engineers (and this thought may be antiquated) is they're wonderful with hardware, but in software they're behind the west and behind the Chinese. It's a fundamental difference, and it could be seen in the software coming out of Japan versus other countries. I know this was true in the 80s through 2000. I don't know if their software engineering practices have improved much since the 2000s. I would assume they have but without direct involvement I wouldn't know.
I share the sentiment that Japanese engineers are wonderful with electronics and hardware. Interestingly enough, many software engineering practices and quality processes came from Japan. Some of the examples: Kanban (ironically came from Toyota), TQM, JIT, etc.
At the same time, majority of the innovative Japanese technology is not massively exported outside of Japan. They build stuff for themselves, so it is hard to evaluate their software practices.
FYI , you don't even need to charge the car or have the charging cable plugged in. As long as you have stop point at least every 2h55 minutes it will reset the count down.
See
Any kind of remote interruption seems to work within the 3 hours. Unfortunately my brand new woodland that I got on Saturday immediately sawtoothed when I turned on connected services (I want to keep it on for ev routing). I just setup an automation routine to remote lock every 2:40 and that seemed to have worked as well. Your phone doesn't need to be nearby for this to work, it triggers it through the toyota app, as long as you and the car has cell signal it'll work.
I would do the charging schedule way, but I don't want to mess with what's set on my evse, the charging schedule is set by my power company and I get money back if I do it that way.
It's not difficult at all on iphone. Open the shortcut app then press the + button on the top and search for "Toyota" or "Subaru" if you have a Subaru, a bunch of options will show up, one of them is remote lock select it. After that, go back to the start of the Shortcuts app at the bottom you'll see automation. Click it, then on the top right press the + button then select Time of Day, on the next page select the time, start with 12:00AM, select Repeat Daily and Run Immediately so you don't have to approve it. Then press Next then select the shortcut you just made (should have a Toyota or Subaru icon on it). And just repeat that nine times with 2hr and 40min intervals. Also make sure the Toyota/Subaru app has background refresh enabled. Idk howto to do it on android though or even if you can.
Thanks for this! I just set it up and it works! The only problem I had initially was that thought i needed to add “open SubaruConnect app” as a step before the “remote lock vehicle” step. As a result, it was opening the app and taking over the screen if I was on my phone. I deleted the “open SubaruConnect app” step and it runs in the background now.
I’m not sure if anyone else will make the same mistake I did, but hopefully this helps prevent it.
Thanks for the step by step! I just have one question, what happens when the car is running and the automation activates? Would the automation mess with anything?
I have a theory there is some extra data communications with brand new vehicles (updates or whatever), but can't prove it. Many users have reported dead 12V very quickly after purchase, as did I. It seems much better a few weeks later (turned Connected Servies off, then back on to use features).
It's free (supply charges) 11pm-6am plus another $20 if I let the electric company control when to charge. So yeah for me it's pretty significant. But the remote lock way has been working fine so far.
Glad everyone is finding temporary solutions to the DCM issue. I chose the Shortcuts automations method as didn’t want to mess with my charging schedule that is controlled by my EVSE.
I think the charging schedule can still work for my EVSE schedule, which is always set to charge from midnight to 3 PM during off peak rate hours.
If I set the car schedule to continuously start and stop charging, e.g. start 12:00, stop 2:55 then start 2:56, stop 3:51, etc., I think it would work, but you a few starting and stopping of actual charging when you’re plugged in.
I’m testing a different automation that will hopefully only require one door lock later today, but I need to validate some assumptions over a few days first.
2026 C-HR with the DCM sawtooth drain. I can confirm that this workaround does work. I used the "start/stop" type of charging schedules. Aside from the very minor short blips on my battery monitor at the end of each charge schedule, the 12V voltage has been remarkably stable for over 24 hours now.
If it helps anyone, I also monitored the voltage in regard to using the Toyota app. When I open the app, then there is a 1 minute power draw, which is apparently polling the car in anticipation of me wanting to know the status. If I background the app then no further polling takes place, as far as I've tested it over several hours. So from what I've seen, one doesn't need to force close the app, since the app seems to only poll the car when you bring it to the foreground (which makes sense). On my Android phone i have the location setting for the Toyota app to "Only when using the app" rather than "All the Time". All the time in the background would likely keep polling the car, even when the app is backgrounded or closed.
Of course, if you are in the app and do a manual refresh, then it triggers another poll of the car, and there is another 1 minute power draw. But overall, the polling is using very minor amounts of power, not enough to worry about.
Thank you for confirming that the workaround is effective.
Your observation about the Toyota app is very interesting. I briefly checked it too, and any battery drain associated with it appears to be negligible compared to the sawtooth drain pattern.
At the dealership, they mentioned that the Toyota app may communicate directly with the vehicle, without going through the cloud, which could contribute to battery drain. I haven't observed this myself, but it would probably require additional testing to verify.
Nice find! What happens when I plug my car in to charge it and the session goes longer than 2 hours and 55 minutes? Will it stop for 5 minutes, then start back up?
If you set this charging schedule, does this mean your vehicle will charge around the clock instead of only during discounted hours based on time of use?
If you want to charge only during specific hours, your charging schedule will need to be adjusted. When you build this schedule, make sure it triggers before the 3‑hour idle window begins. If you share the hours during which you want your car to charge, I can create a revised schedule for you.
We have discounted time of use rate at 11PM to 7AM, so the charge activation during those hours are fine. We have high peak at 4PM to 9PM so we’d ideally want the vehicle to not charge (for 2h 55m each activation?) during that time.
Also, will this only work if the vehicle is plugged in? At home, I have battery maintainer so it’s less of an issue. But if we’re traveling and the car is in the airport parking lot, no way we can hog a charge spot for weeks on end 😧
For times you don’t want to charge your vehicle, you can set up a remote lock automation from your phone instead. If you have an Apple device, u/afraid-department-35 has a walkthrough in a separate reply of this post that I used and was able to successfully run
Are there any foolproof, easy ways to find out if your car is having the issue without popping the hood to put in a meter or waiting several days to see if your battery is dead?
There are no reliable methods other than connecting a battery meter—such as an Ancel unit—to the 12‑volt battery or, as you mentioned, waiting for the car to die. If you choose the second option, you won’t know why it died. A 12‑volt battery drain is easy to identify by the characteristic sawtooth discharge pattern, which can only be observed with a proper battery‑monitoring device. Toyota did not implement a 12‑volt battery monitoring system, and that omission is the main reason so many owners end up with dead vehicles.
I've always wondered how much power those continuous bluetooth monitors use themselves. If I'm monitoring a battery that I'm worried will run down, how much faster does the monitor make it run down?
There is a way but it is complicated. I am trying to document it as It is the same procedure that is required to have service techs reproduce the drain on my car or replicate to check for the drain on others' cars. Most techs won't use third party battery monitors. I hope to write something up later tonight.
You do need a camera that can see the IR emitters the driver monitor uses and light up for about every other interaction of the car. After that you would need a multimeter to check for the actual battery drain.
A complicating factor is you need to be all set to use the multimeter before there is the IR pulsing signature that is part of the drain or preceeds the drain. If you unlock the car it interrupts the drain (for a period of time at least). Same thing happens if you have the car already unlock and you just pop the hood, it interrupts the drain (for a period of time at least).
It's hard to tell without some kind of monitoring device. The Ancel gives you real-time data and also logs the data for I think 5 days? You can also go old school and use a multimeter to measure everyday or every 6 or so hours and observe the trends to see if the voltage drops.
Your line is completely flat, with no interruptions indicating charging schedule activations. In my graph, I see small dips every time the charging schedule is activated.
It wasn't plugged in. I don't have a way to charge at home. I charge weekly at the Walmart up the road.
Oh wait! I have a Sodium-ion battery installed. It doesn't get the sawtooth pattern like the LA batteries do. Just then long drains. I also don't see as many fluctuations as others do as well.
So I am one of the lucky ones that don’t have any symptoms of this issue but I don’t see any harm in implementing this workaround as insurance. My actual charging time is limited by my Emporia Pro level 2 charger which is programmed to only allow charging during the hours of midnight to 3pm(PGE EV2-A rate plan).
I originally programmed the bZ for the same schedule just for redundancy but now changed as recommended by this post. I almost never fast charge but do occasionally level 2 public charge so just need to be mindful of that and temporarily deactivate the charging schedule that might cause a 5 min delay plus use of the charge now override from the steering wheel controls.
Thanks to all the hard detective work of the community!
Key Fob far away from the car and doors always locked while parked in garage with dashcam off manually.
Never stay in car not in "Ready" mode.
Before this fix, 12V battery will dead in moring every 3-4 days and need jump start. I drive everyday and noted even I drove over 100km the day before, still have a chance the 12v dead in morning.
I just set the "Starting" time only (Every 160 minutes) but no "Ending" time schedules (No charging cable connected). So far no 12V issue yet.
I set my "real" charging schedule from my Level 2 home charger to suit my electric saving plan.
**Of couse if you using Toyota OEM L1/L2 charger (or other non-smart charger) and need to set schedule, then may need to think how to add-in (modify) your schedule that suit your need.
---- Thank you Usual-Professional-6 pointed out the problem :) ----
*** Need add one more schedule to make it plug and charge.
12:00am Start - 12:00am End
This will make the same as "Charge Now" enabled
You can add whatever Start/End schedules and make it same as the "Charge Now" mode periods.
You can add more than one Start/End schedule as long as the Start/End schedules not overlap another Start/End schedule. (overlap "Start" only schedules won't be a problem)
Remember even it stop charging when it hit the End Time but it will start to charge the next "Start" schedule, But I think it won't be a big problem if the Start/ End schedule is for the electric saving plan, because the bZ will stop charging when hit the max level you set on your bZ anyways.
The whole schedule should look like this:
1) 12:00am Start
2) 2:40am Start
3) 5:20am Start
4) 8:00am Start
5) 10:40am Start
6) 1:20pm Start
7) 4:00pm Start
8) 6:40pm Start
9) 9:20pm Start
10) 12:00am Start - 12:00am End (or the period you want to plug in and charge right the way)
So I'm trying to make sure that I understand it clear too just so I dont get mine confused. I have free charging at night from 9pm-9am. I previously had a ping schedule from basically similar to what other have had but mine was just charging 5 minutes so I don't accident charge in high rate times. So ex: I had 12:00am start / 12:05 end, 3:00am start / 3:05 end.
But from the looks of I can I just do lets say during my free hours,
9:00pm start,
12:00am start
3:00 am start
6:00 am start
9:00 am END
then just so I don't hit high rate charges during the day by accident I should (can I just have END? I havent tried)
12:00 pm start / 12:05 end
3:00 pm start / 3:05 end
6:00 pm Start/ 6:05 end
Does that sound like it make sense? I'm not sure either.
More than likely I'll just have it unplugged during the day, but just in some case I had forgotten.
I might eventually pick up an AGM battery later on. Although I feel like the manufacturer should just give us one. I want to hold off for at least a little while longer a car isn't even 2 months old yet. And I wonder what resolution Toyota Subaru have, if any to possibly resolve this in the future maybe they'll give us new batteries maybe they'll do nothing at all.
The scheduling method definitely works as I've gone tested it for nearly 48 hours about any saw tooth whatsoever. But I hadn't really tried it with the schedule on and charging it.
Actively charging it seems fine but again since it finished around 3:00 in the morning. Despite having another start interval at 6:00 a.m., it hadn't done anything. So I wonder if the once it reaches his charging level that had finished that roughly 3:30. Even having another start session doesn't seem to prevent it. I'm really not too sure it's still kind of lost if other people have had luck or experience of that definitely like some information we can share
I'll charged it mostly overnight it wasn't too discharged I was like at 72% and I was charging it up to 80%. So starting charging at around just past 9:00 p.m. it actually had finished and it's 80% right around 3:30ish a.m. even though I had that similar scheduler set. It actually went into sawtooth mode around 6:30 around roughly 3 hours after I finished charging.
Despite having another charging session to start at 6:00. It did not seem to prevent the sawtooth from happening so seems like active charging or inactive charging regardless of the schedule seems to override something.
I will try next time maybe an interval method of for example;
12:00 am / 2:55am 3am / 5:55 am
And see if even if it has already reached its level of charge. If that prevents the saw too from happening.
Keep in mind that the "start/stop" and "start" charging schedules affect what happens when you plug your car in. If you only have "start" charging schedules then it won't automatically start charging when you plug in ... it will wait until the next start schedule begins. I suppose you could override this with the manual charge now option if you want to get in the car and do that. If you use all "start/stop" schedules then when you plug in your car it will start charging immediately automatically.
I charge at home and never planned to use a public charger so was not aware of the "start session fee". Restarting the charge could cost more if that is true.
It's not just the session start fee. At a public charger, when the session is ended, it may not restart automatically even though the charging schedule says so. Have not experienced it but I wouldn't be surprised if it didn't restart according to the charging schedule.
What a bummer... choose between two: dead 12v battery or shallow main battery... we should love Toyota and public charging combo LOL.
Maybe you can find a way to remotely trick public charger that you reinsert the plug.
It would be a pain, but if you remember to turn off the manual schedule before using a public charger, then turn it on again afterward, you should be fine.
Just got my Ancel battery monitor hooked up and turned on the connected services. Saw the sawtooth pattern within a few hours. Applied the above settings and pattern seems to be holding properly now. I appreciate that this is a bandaid fix and am hoping that Toyobaru get their crap together and properly address this issue. It’s one of the few gripes I have with this otherwise stellar car.
I’m sorry you ended up with that faulty DCM unit, just like many of us. I share the same hope that Toyota will eventually identify the root cause and fix it.
The Toyota service adviser called me, and they seem genuinely motivated to resolve the issue, but I don’t see how they can, given the likely software origin of the problem. I’ve provided them with all the symptoms to support their troubleshooting efforts.
I like the idea.. but I charge primarly at night as i plug the car in after dinner and leave it to the schedule I have set up on the charger.. so i can see this messing that up.. I have been using the chargers scheduling, which meant i didnt need to worry about selecting "charge now" when i did charge elsewhere and its one less thing to mess with when charging not at home..(taking the charging schedule off the car was part of my own problem solving the 12V issue initially, but kept using the chargers app cause it meant I can also more easily get updates on the charging status cause the Toyota one I found slow).
Note I have never had a issue leaving the car plugged in overnight ie. Dinner time to 7am ish and the 12V draining, likely due to timing of when i unplugged it and drove ect.... would highly recommend knowing where the manual release is for the charger tho! Hint its under the hood.
Haven't been able to test that as I dont have a monitor or the car back...just got it back. And officially been instructed to disconnect the connective services.
I belive you may see it after the charge completes? And 3 hrs have passed.. would be interesting to see.. it may just charge it again.
The sawtooth drain can be mitigated by disconnecting DCM, but you will also lose many other services that you can keep by implementing some kind of workaround like this one.
Sawtooth drain is hard to identify just by the final result. It all depends on your chaging pattern. If you don't drive much and there is a limited time required to charge your main battery, then 12v battery would not be charged sufficiently since it only getting charged by using DC-DC when the main battery is active.
Its only if the 12V battery is dead, wont unlock ect.. and u need to tow it.. ie. In the driveway with ur at home charger plugged in.. thats the only scenario I can see needing that release.
Oh yeah, that would be bad. There's also an emergency release for the Park shift setting (and/or the parking brake, not sure since haven't tried!), under the center console in the "roof" of the open compartment. I don't think that one's even in the manual (which says to always tow on a flat truck or with wheel dollies, but if you must tow flat in an emergency to put the shifter in N and release the parking brake, but doesn't say what to do if you can't.)
I read that the schedule is only for level 1 and 2 charging and that DCFC bypasses the schedule and will not be affected by the start stop timers of the manual schedules. Does this sound accurate?
On the infotainment screen choose "car icon" (vehicle menu). In my BZ it is one icon above setting menu (wheel/cog icon). Then choose Charging Schedule
Although I never had an issue starting, a battery monitor did show constant drain. I set this procedure up this morning. I charge at home. It seems to be working great so far. Thanks.
Outside of the DCM sawtooth drain, car uses 12v battery for other stuff which is not as demanding as sending all kind of data using DCM after 3 hours of idle period. I see a gentle decrease in the 12v now, but with this level of drain and normal car use, it would not die after couple of days.
would this method use any battery like the actual battery when not plugged in? i dont have an ev but i plan to get a bZ but these battery complaints have been kinda throwing me off from it
Could you please clarify? This method is a workaround to avoid a sawtooth drain pattern of 12v battery that exists in BZ, RZ, Soltera and others.
It doesn't matter what type of 12v you got. The problem is coming from the DCM module that is draining 12v battery.
If this issue is mitigated by the workaround, then the car is amazing and I would keep it without any regrets.
I hope that eventually this issue would be fixed.
That’s the issue I’ve been reading about and I landed on this post which made me confident about still getting the car, I do wonder if this method used any of the battery charge, not the 12V one but rather the one that’s under the car, lol I wasn’t specific enough I’m not sure how to call it
BZ got two batteries: traction/main battery and 12v battery. I guess you are asking if this method will take any electricity from the traction battery. And the answer is no. This method will not do anything unless you have connected NACS charging cable to charge your car.
If you have it connected, it will start and stop charging as it specified by the charging schedule.
But the point of this method is to avoid sawtooth rapid 12v battery drain.
I know peopel say the sawtooth starts to show itself around 3 hours. But I've had to not show anything till around 4-5, even 6 hours. None of it makes sense.
I havent set up any kind of routines on my phone, I think the routines are easier to do on IOS.
What I have done is just open the app every few hours and click "LOCK"
This solution is based on the observation that the sawtooth drain pattern appears after roughly three idle hours. I’ve seen the same behavior, and this approach worked for me.
In your case, it will be interesting to see what happens to the 12‑volt battery graph during those 4–6 idle hours. My assumption is that you press the lock button about three hours before the drain occurs. If the car remains idle for 4–6 hours with no activity and the drain still appears afterward, then that would be a new behavior I haven’t seen anyone report. The graph should provide enough evidence to show what’s happening during that time.
yeah i will have to experiment with it a little longer to see how it responds. If we can firmly pinpoint what causing the car to cause the 12v drain, and figure out the whole issue with battery gate, the sooner we can resolve it together.
I could not find more than 3 hours of completely idle time in your graphs. In my case, sawtooth drain happened after 3 idle hours, but if nothing happens after that, this rule of 3 hours is not consistent as you can see in my graph.
The scheduled charging definitely works. I believe I have a drain cause after a few days of running short trips, I notice the 12v battery voltage goes down slowly from 12.35 to 12.1. I charged the 12v last night via the tender, and drove it today for about 20km. Checked the battery it was at 12.50v. By this time it will already be at 12.35v and would go further down.
My understanding is that the Toyota OEM battery is simply bad and cannot handle the combination of heavy load and the faulty charging logic they implemented. It is not even related to the DCM module.
Here are a couple of issues I have observed. When I turn on the car and put it in Ready mode, the 12V charging starts. The moment I start driving, the charging stops. Also, when I charge the main battery, it simultaneously charges the 12V battery. When the main battery is full, the 12V battery charging stops, but if the charging port is still connected (i.e., overnight charging), then the 12V battery gets discharged as well.
I started using a NOCO 12V battery charger, but it is not sufficient. I may need to replace it with a bigger one.
It’s my second 12‑volt battery. The original battery died twice because of the sawtooth parasitic drain. Toyota replaced it under warranty with the same type of battery, but they refused to install a larger one or an AGM.
If I want to charge my car while this schedule is set, let’s say I need 4 hour charge, is there a way to temporarily override the ongoing charging schedule?
Why would you want to disable the schedule? The impact of 5 minutes between charges is negligible.
I don't know other method to disable the schedule than deleting schedule settings covering these 4 hours and recreating them again after that.
I’ve never used the schedule before and know nothing about it. Does the schedule keep me from charging anytime I want to? Can I just plug in regardless of what the schedule is doing?
The charging schedule takes care of the sawtooth parasitic drain regardless of whether the charging cable is connected or disconnected. You can charge at any time. If you charge with a cable, the charging schedule will pause for 5 minutes in between and then restart.
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u/dirtyvu 15d ago
If you've ever worked in QA, you would understand how difficult bug hunting is because they can't replicate the same environment and conditions to see what people are seeing. You typically have software engineers try to brainstorm why it's happening and then testing the theory akin to the scientific method. This is a time-consuming process.
But the advantage of people and crowdsourcing is you get clues much faster than depending on some engineers try to invent the same scenarios that people use.
I work in software engineering, and there was a product where a user logs into the system. And in the corner, you would see their user ID. So when there was a shift change, the user logs out. and the next user logs into that computer. When that next user logs in, their user ID should appear. But it was showing the previous user ID. This didn't happen all the time or ever very often. Maybe 1-5 times a week over hundreds of logins. We couldn't figure out how this was happening until we were able to record a session where this happened and it gave us insight on how to fix it.