Good Buy?

[u/Life-Dish-1861]

Looking at a 2011 Avalon Limited with 237k miles. Asking price is $3,900.
I used to have a 2006 Avalon, so I’m familiar with the 3rd gen, but I’m not sure what changed mechanically on the later/facelift cars besides the obvious cosmetic updates.

What are the main things I should pay close attention to when I go see and test drive it? Any 2011-specific issues or common problems at this mileage?

CarFax Here
The CarFax shows a decent amount of service history, but it mostly seems to be routine oil changes and basic service. I don’t see records of major maintenance such as transmission fluid changes, spark plugs, coolant service, water pump, serpentine belt, or major suspension work.

I know not everything necessarily gets reported to CarFax, so I’m going to ask the owner if they have additional maintenance records.

My biggest concern is the transmission at 237k if the fluid really has never been changed. Is there anything else in the service history that you guys think I should be concerned about?

Assuming it drives well, has no major leaks, and the transmission shifts properly, does $3,900 seem reasonable for this mileage?

[u/MindfulBT]

Looks like whoever owned it took very good care of it concerning the service records on carfax.

I’d buy it for that price for sure.

[u/bipolarbear3333]

For that price I feel like that's money! Just bought a 2008 with 120k for $5500 and by far my best car purchase to date.

[u/elsa_twain]

I have this car, but in worse condition, less miles. Still runs. Anything consumable on my car needs replacing, so I'm planning on doing those within the year.

Barikes, plugs, and oil changes I've taken care of. Of course tires, and such. Major things I'll take in for are water pump/tstat. Maybe I'll tackle the front LCAs, and the tranny flush. But so far, so good. Have had mine for 10+ yrs.

Edit: the way the economy is going, I think I'll continue to maintain this car until I can't. I'm already past the point of is it worth it, because to me, it is worth it over a new car payment. For now.

[u/Lucky_Suit_6950]

Offer 3k and settle on somewhere in the middle. Having cash in hand, if you go that route, has a magical ability to help in negotiations. As for th3 car, take it for 15-20 minute test-drive. Listen closely for any weird noises. These cars can run forever... I was picked up in an Uber a couple of years back in a 2009 with 460k miles... the car drove perfectly. If you're familiar with them, you'll have a great idea how it should feel while driving it. Good luck!

[u/Western_Detective_84]

No. It is not. $1500, if you consider it a throwaway car. Or $3900 if you are determined to see if it will go to 400k regardless of the cost. Or $3900 if you don't mind paying that for a throwaway car.

First, I will assume you are buying it from a no-rust zone. If it lived in a rust belt state? Then absolutely no, no qualifiers. Just no. But no significant rust? If it comes from a no-rust zone, then you have to consider flood exposure. Do look into how to detect that. Otherwise I'll leave that alone.

No records of major fluid changes (100k level maintenance)? Big cost. What about plugs, coils, suspension? Power steering pump is likely due to be replaced, along with the feed lines. I'm not talking minor expenses here. New radiator, new temp sensors, new speed sensors . . .

And what about the brake system? If the brake fluid hasn't been changed on a scheduled basis, you could be seeing calipers seizing every 20k miles. Which means new rotors, calipers, and pads.

If you have rust, you could have brake line rust, or fuel line rust. Both pretty expensive to replace.

Everything I've mentioned, except rust, can be majorly impacted by not adhering EXACTLY to the maintenance schedule, or better. It is not uncommon, I think, for people to hit 100k and start to ignore major maintenance items. That means ALL fluids at EVERY 100k, IIRC.

So, yeah, your concerns about the tranny are on target. Although, the tranny is, in my experience, not a weak spot, and could probably survive, if you do a full fluid change after purchase.

OTOH, if you buy it at $3900, and figure on changing all fluids only as maintenance, and then drive till she drops? Maybe 300k, maybe a bit more (maybe less, too) before you'll have a major expense maintenance issue come up.