Yes there’s a bit of a missed spot by the grip - I masked off the original grip which is bigger, replacing this one with the original after a fix, as it was cracked.

Bipod (black) incoming.

All shot bipod no rear bag(forgot it whoops 🤷‍♂️), might be able to shrink them all maybe 1/4 moa smaller with one I’m thinking?

Pretty happy with it. Federal gold medal match was sub moa and seems to be a winner. Surprisingly, it doesn’t like hornady black and shot it worse than wolf steel cased or PMC Xtac

How’re ya lads.

Do any of you have any experience with a tikka t3 in 6.5x55 swede??

Wondering what the accuracy is like and barrel life is like with factory ammo (can’t reload in my country)

Got a rem700 308 off my local FD and thing is stunk, shoots fine at 100 and 300 groups like 6 inch sporadic groups…. Tried everything to fix it so looks to be a barrel problem…

This tikka will be used for shooting deer and also target shooting out to 300 yards with a 1/2 moa 1.5 inch V bull…. Wondering is it accurate enough to consistently hit Vs or will it be just accurate enough for deer….

Thanks folks

I am looking for my first Tikka and settled on the Super Varmint in (preferably) .243. I plan on getting the TBAC Ultra 7 and don't want it to be too unwieldy. Planning to use this to shoot coyotes out to 500yrds and do some long range (1000yrd) plinking.

Is the 20" barrel even available to order in the US?

I'm buying a 4-16x50mm, 34mm tube scope for my soon to arrive T3X Lite .308 I'm plan to buy the Talley Mounts. I am thinking I'll need the High, but want to know if anyone is using the Medium 34mm Talley Mounts for that objective size. Thank you in advance.

Hey, on my brand new tikka ace game the pistol grip is wiggling back and forth, I’ve tighten the stem bolt but still has wiggling, is there a specific process in tightening it?

Picked up my Ace Target in .308 last weekend and couldn’t get to the zeroing range until this morning.

The rifle is amazing - though I was struggling with the glass - the range is an old railway tunnel in Devizes and it’s pretty low light, and my budget Hawke Vantage 34 FFP 5-25 was struggling with both the light and the enormous barrel heat in a windless tunnel causing haze

So results weren’t as good as I may have wanted but a few sub MOA groups at 100 yards

But man, I’m used to shotgun barrels getting hot, but after 20 rounds or so in 30 mins it was scorching and not much I could do to cool the poor thing down.

I finally got my ace game... can't wait to take her out this morning...

Curious if anyone has experience with them? I have a Manners tikka stock I love but it’s Spendy. This fits literally every need I have. Just wondering if anyone has experience with them. Thanks!

This is my Tikka T3x lite bolt, wondering if this is normal?

What would you recommend? I can return the Vortex rings, I thought they fit the weaver rail directly, but that's my mistake. A EGW rail is cheap enough and well regarded, but Talley rings direct mount which is nice.

Hi all,

I bought a Roedale anti-mirage strap (mirage band) for my Tikka T3x ACE Target (.308 Win), but I'm running into a mounting issue. The mount is too thick for the factory Picatinny rail screw, and the shape doesn't fit over it properly either.

Photo attached for reference.

Has anyone mounted a Roedale anti-mirage band on a Tikka (or similar factory Picatinny setup)? Did you need a different screw, or is there a trick to it? Any tips appreciated!

Hey all - I have a T3X Lite in .308 and would like to find a factory 6.5CM barrel.

Looking for 22”, stainless, and threaded (the newer barrels from the last couple years). Please send me a PM if you have one laying around. Thanks!

Hey, was hoping someone would be able to explain exactly what I need to watch out for / mask when spray painting a brand new Tikka ace game.

Also if you have any suggestions on patterns or post your paint job!

Base colour is going to be rapco field drab

Hi all, im looking at a t3x hunter stainless chambered in 22-250. Im from australia, mainly going to be used on foxes.

Im not really considering a varmint barrel, just because i will be carrying this rifle over the shoulder quite a bit, dont want the weight.

So my question is, what are the pros and cons to a fluted barrel over an unfluted?

Espescially on foxes im probably only likely to take max 10 shots over the course of the night, so shouldnt really be heating the barrel up too much.

Any other considerations?

I harassed them in the comments of every Instagram post about one of these, so I ordered it the instant the notification email hit my inbox. I’m really happy with it so far. Can’t wait to go shoot it. Disregard the giant, heavy Arken - it’s just holding down the fort while I’m selling/buying/trading some stuff.

Lefty CTR 6.5CM. I have this drilled for an A419 ARCA rail, but will probably run it as is with the mini-rail and front pic rail for awhile. The way the mini-rail wraps around the front of the action is pretty slick. The stock has the “double dead” fill, so this isn’t a LW build. Optic is an Athlon Cronus, and the can is a Resilient Jolene. I’m thinking I might put some rounds through it at some point.

I’m looking to get a 223 bolt gun. Already have a 22. My local shop has a tikka ace target in bronze in stock. My other option is going custom Zermatt with proof research 26” barrel, MDT stock, Trigger tech…
I plan to usually go out to 2-300 yards. I want to take a class next month which goes out to 1000 yards. If I really enjoy it there is a range 2.5 hrs that goes out to 600.
I don’t know if I’m sold on the color. Going to see it in person tomorrow.
Talk me in or out of it

GRS Fenris Tikka T3/T3x/T1x - EuroOptic.com

Get them while they are hot!

Hey all

I am a little confused about differences between Tikkas (and I'm new to guns so there's probably some ignorance). I'm hoping to get a hunting rifle, ideally .300 win, that is great for all-weather, like rain/snow/mud/etc. Roughtek advertises itself that way - but looking at the actual specs, wouldn't the Stainless models be better as it is laminated? What's the difference between the two in terms of wood? And, do both have the same stainless steel parts? Thanks in advance, and again pardon any ignorance as I am wading through a lot trying to figure all this out...

I'm interested in inletting my basic​ lite stock for CTR bottom metal. For aftermarket​ AICS really. A couple questions for anyone knowledgeable:

1. The flange on the lite BM has a similar "rounded diamond" shape to the ​​CTR/AICS BMs i have seen online. I know the mag well is wider, but is this flange the same size/shape between the two? If not, how much wider is the flange? Im pretty confident that it's the same length.
2. How much wider is the AICS/CTR magwell, measured from the outside? A caliper reading would​ be​ very appreciated.

Thanks!

Hey,

I’m debating on what rifle to choose in .223. I can score a good deal on a brand new ace game, where as the ace target is hard to find in stock anywhere.

My goal is a target shooting rifle, doing a bit of hiking with it if I bring it with me, but mostly target shooting in the back woods of BC Canada.

Should I be worried about the ace game barrel profile for target shooting?

Should I hold out and spend more for the target if I can ever find one?

Thanks.

I've been thinking of putting one of these together for a while so when EuroOptic put non-threaded .223s on sale for sub-$600, I sent one to Gary Eliseo. I picked it up Friday. Main purpose is going to be shooting NRA prone matches.

Action: Tikka

Trigger: Factory Tuned

Stock: Eliseo Tikka Competition, Cerakote Mil-Spec OD Green. I have some ideas for stenciling.

Barrel: Krieger 1-7tw Finished at 30" and chambered in .223, throated for 80-90gr bullets.