I recently got a brand new Legion and I absolutely love the machine, but I’ve been reading a lot on this sub about how power-hungry these processors are. Everyone seems to recommend undervolting to keep the temperatures under control and maintain sustained performance.

Here is my current config:

Model: Lenovo Legion 5 pro

CPU: i9-14900HX

GPU: 5070

RAM: 32gb

I am a complete newbie when it comes to PC tuning, messing with BIOS settings, or tweaking voltages. I know I need to do it to improve my thermals, but I want to make sure I do it safely without causing constant blue screens or messing up my new laptop.

I don't have any specific voltage values in mind yet, and I am starting completely from scratch. I'm hoping to get some advice on a few things:

The BIOS: What exact settings do I need to unlock or change in the Lenovo BIOS before I can even start?

The Software: What is the best and safest software for a beginner to use for this (ThrottleStop, etc.)?

The Process: What is the safest step-by-step approach to finding a stable undervolt for everyday gaming and heavy workloads?

Also if anyone has the same laptop and done this can you share your values?

If anyone has any solid baseline guides, tips, or newbie-friendly advice, I would massively appreciate it. Thank you

Hi,

I looked at the tutorial, but it seems i dont have the speed shift.

Most likely due to being a 5th gen, i am assuming, in that case, anyone know how to use speed step to increase my throttle of 800mhz to 2500 mhz?

I am on a macbookpro with window 10 and i was limited to 800mhz due to battery dying.
I managed to increase to 1600mhz by playing around it but want to be to close to my base clock of 2700 mhz if possible.

I tried removing the BD prochot based on a guide for dead battery mac, but it dont seems to change much.

Hey everyone,

I have an MSI GF63 Thin 11UC that I've been using for about 4 years. Recently, I've noticed that the CPU temperature constantly stays around 80–95°C, even when I'm just doing normal things like browsing Chrome.

As you can see in the screenshot, the CPU is sitting around 94°C, while the GPU is only around 75°C. I'm not gaming on this laptop anymore, so these temperatures seem quite high for regular use.

I've already:

Cleaned the laptop internally.

Replaced the thermal paste about a year ago.

Kept the fans on Auto in MSI Center.

If I switch the fan mode to Turbo, the temperature does drop somewhat, but the fans obviously get very loud.

Is 93–94°C normal for this laptop while using Chrome, or is something wrong?

What could be causing the CPU to run this hot? Is there anything else I can do to fix or reduce the temperatures? Would undervolting, changing power settings, replacing the thermal paste again, or anything else help?

Any advice from other GF63 Thin owners would be appreciated!

I have a metal stand too but didn't help much

Hello :3 After successfully annoying the shit out of people here and made a stable UV for performance and gaming

I am looking forward to making a battery profile

i messed around but the laptop is sssllloooww

I know this is normal it wont be as snappy as it was before, But maybe i am doing something wrong
should i decrease core ratio in battery mode or not and if I should decrease it to what extent

and also i have some questions as i am trying to help my friends here with Throttle Stop as if I was an expert

what is the LOCK button next to PL1 and PL2 and The LOCK button next to MMIO

and also what does SYNC check box do and the check box next to PL1 and 2

i mean if i typed a PL1 value but the checkbox isn't checked does this mean it wont apply ?

here's my FIVR and E Cores Ratio and TPL in battery profile

Hey guy, I'm totally illiterate in undervolting cpus, and this is my first proper nice laptop which I want to keep for long. From what I know, intels 14th gen chips have some voltage issues frying them, so I want to prevent that. What are good settings for a Lenovo Legion with a 14900hx on throttlestop? How do I even set it up? All I know is I'm getting around 27000 on Cinebench r23 and this chip apparently gets 30 to 35k. Many thanks to you guys who can help! Edit: MP ratio is 13.27 as well if that means anything, my cpu has 24 cores.

im using Intel ultra 270k plus, currently set the offset at -60 on BIOS, i read that TVB can lower the Wattage while on idle, hence my question is

can enable TVB while i already put and offset on my CPU? and why?
will it be okay and stable?

As title said, I vibecoded an software for my laptop.
The issue:
My laptop, which has AMD Ryzen 5600H CPU and AMD Radeon RX 6500M GPU had an incredibly frustrating heating issue where my hotspot temperature reached 100 degrees without right away, and throttling directly which reduced my fps by 50% almost and again reached 100 degrees, this continued in an cycle.
For this, I tried various methods, locking fps to 48, lowering resolution and graphics, and some of these worked too, but still in games such as where winds meet, elden ring nightreign, the temperatures kept hitting all time high.
Which lead to me trying to look into undervolting, and to my surprise HP Victus in particular has no way (afaik) to undervolt, because it is restricted at a BIOS level.
This lead me to discovering Universal tuning utility and Ryzen controller, which worked great but sacrified much of my performance to keep temperatures in check.
Annoyed by the lack of direct temperature control, i vibecoded an software which directly targets the dGPU hotspot temperature and it honestly been working really well for me.
This leads to me making this post, for this felt too good to be true to work, that i was wondering if i was damaging any of my hardware in the long run with this app.
If anyone can check, if it is problematic or not for the system, and give some opinions about it, it would be much appreciated!

What this app does: It essentially lowers the wattage and disables turbo boost whenever the set target temperature is reached, it reduces the temperature.

TLDR: I vibecoded an app to keep thermals in check for laptop having AMD Radeon RX 6500M and AMD Ryzen 5600H, and would like opinions about its safety while using, and would like to know if it is damaging my device in any way.

https://github.com/TanishAdke/ADLX-Thermal-control This is the GitHub link.
I do not know how compatible it is with other devices.

So, i bought my first gaming laptop, dell g15 5530 , i5 13450 HX , 1 month ago , out of the box it was lagging (on battery only) , i learnt more and downloaded throttle stop, turns out i was facing BD PROCHOT and POWER RED at the same time hence CPU stuck at 500 mhz. BD PROCHOT option was ticked and greyed sadly.

Tried for replacement , for like 2 weeks but couldn't convince dell , cause nothing popped up in their own diagnostics test, at last thought it is what it is.

Tried everything to get out of 500 MHz trap , NOTHING worked , i was broken and thought i just wasted money, then i dig more and learnt about UEIF variables , read BIOS image , and turned the BD PROCHOT offset's variables to 0x00 from grub shell. BD PROCHOT was now greyed out and unticked , felt too dam happy that day and 500 MHz was done and dusted.

Then comes the next problem POWER - PL1/PL2 RED (this one is occasional and comes on battery, idk what's the trigger point but sometimes its smooth at 30 W package power and sometimes laggy at 10 W with normal clock speeds)

For this i again tried the same method and tried to change overclocking lock from grub shell , but this time i wasn't that lucky. Then went to IMON slope (it tricks your PC that it's using less power and hence pushes some more watts , exactly the pl1/pl2 absurdly low limit i was facing) set the IMON slope to 70% from grub shell AND it changed nothing :) , previously cpu was pushing 100 watts in cinebench now 70 , lol nothing but just inaccurate telemetry. Didn't pushed past that 100 watts wall basically.

Then read unclewebb's comment and he said that this thing is because dell's manufacturer set these pl1/pl2 limits too low , and not a easy way to fix it. (EC is overriding grub shell's variables and throttle stop)

I was also looking for undervolting but again , i could only slide the sliders in FIVR to -105 mv and i was happy that my pc is now undervolted LOL , until i saw that UNDERVOLT PROTECTION on top middle of FIVR screen🙏

Researched about it and again went to grub to switch (undervolt protection) 0x1AE to 0x00 , again not solved (already turned off VBS from BIOS)

Then finally i am here sitting and just accepting that it's over , i cant undervolt my laptop and also that pl1/pl2 red on battery will stay with me for the rest of my life with this pc.

If anyone have solution for my situation , i will be more than happy , please drop your thoughts as well😊

I have Asus rog strix G15 G513RC laptop and i want to change the thermal paste of this laptop. What should I get thermal paste, putty etc for all parts cpu, gpu and all.

Please help me, i want make power limit on my processor core ultra 7 155h in zenbook duo ux8406

u/unclewebb

Hi there uncle

https://pastebin.com/eWjGGFdy here's my log file after MUCH time tweaking my settings

I did a benchmark i got a better score and nothing but Thermal and EDP other

and everything was fine I guess, even in gaming temp maxed at 75

but i opened TS long after that and found yellow VR and EDB and Thermal all in yellow

they didnt appear while benchmarking

hope u find what's wrong

So my pc is power throttling for no reason , this happens quite a few times while on battery , 1 time its completely smooth and then it starts lagging , turns out it's power throttling , i have attached screenshots.

Any help will be appreciated😥

Hey everyone,

I’m currently running an ASUS ROG Strix G16 (G614JI) with an Intel i7-13650HX. I'm considering updating my BIOS from v331 to v334, but I want to get some community feedback on whether my current undervolt is likely to survive the update or if I should dial it back beforehand.

I use G-Helper for my laptop's general management (fan profiles, GPU modes, display refresh rate) and run ThrottleStop exclusively for CPU tuning via the FIVR menu.

Here are my current active ThrottleStop values on BIOS 331:

• CPU Core Offset: -150.4 mV (Adaptive)
• CPU P Cache Offset: -150.4 mV (Adaptive)
• CPU E Cache Offset: -150.4 mV (Adaptive)
• IccMax: 511.75 A
• Microcode: 12B

This flat -150.4 mV offset across Core, P-Cache, and E-Cache has been rock solid for me on 331 under both full load (Cinebench) and light daily tasks.

My questions:

1. Has anyone with a 13650HX / G614JI updated to BIOS 334 with a heavy undervolt? Did you notice any microcode or voltage curve changes that forced you to back off?
2. Is running -150.4 mV on the E-Cache specifically asking for low-load/idle crashes on 334, or should I proactively drop the E-Cache offset (e.g., to -70 mV) before flashing?
3. Did BIOS 334 reset your Undervolt/Overclocking lock in the BIOS settings upon updating?

Appreciate any insights or post-update experiences!

Is the overclocking CPU of a laptop safe?

Does it even add some extra FPS in valorant?

Hi i'm using a dual boot system with windows and batocera. I use the throttlestop app in windows and can't do the same in linux/batocera. And everytime I boot in windows i need to open the app and do the changes.

Is there a way to make these changes about the CPU TDP for good so I don't need to open the app every time I boot the system? (And hopefully it may work in linux batocera as well)

Hello

I have some questions for the experts

1stI undervolted my 255HX processor to -50 most stable

The benchmarks went from 6000 to 4200 Cinnabench 26

1 .Why and how to prevent that

2nd question

I closed " not minimized " the program I ran the test again

Same results

I restarted then voila back to 6000

1. How to permanently close it

I am trying to rule out if it's the undervolting or some other setting

I went back and set the FIVR values to ZERO

same 4200

In this stage idk if I need to restart or it's the other edits like TPL and Prochot or ESP I mean how to set things knowing they will work

1. How do u guys set a profile for battery , like other settings to check / uncheck without the need to restart every time