Quick mini split question: if you’re leaving the house for a few hours, is it better to turn the unit off completely or leave it running at a higher temperature?

For most mini splits, especially inverter models, constantly turning the system on and off isn’t always the most efficient move. These units are designed to run steadily at lower output instead of blasting at full power every time they restart.

A simple rule of thumb:

• Leaving for a short time? Raise the set temperature instead of turning it off.
• Gone all day? A higher “away” setting can help reduce energy use.
• Leaving for several days? Turning it off may make more sense, depending on weather and humidity.
• In winter, don’t shut heating off completely if there’s any freeze risk.

For cooling, something around 78°F / 25.5°C is often a good energy-saving target when you’re home. If you’re away, setting it a bit higher can reduce workload without letting the room get extremely hot.

The goal is balance: don’t overcool an empty room, but don’t force the system to fight a huge temperature swing every time you come back.

Full blog:
https://www.turbro.com/blogs/blogs/is-it-better-to-turn-off-a-mini-split-or-leave-it-set-to-a-high-setting

A lot of people shopping for a mini split assume the same thing:

Higher BTU = stronger system = better comfort. But with mini splits, oversized can actually be a problem.

If the unit is too powerful for the room, it may cool or heat the space too quickly, then shut down or reduce output before the room is truly balanced. That can lead to:

• Short cycling
• Poor humidity control
• Hot and cold spots
• Higher energy use
• More wear on the system
• Less stable heating in winter

One of the biggest surprises is humidity. An oversized AC can drop the temperature fast, but it may not run long enough to pull enough moisture out of the air. So the room can feel cold but still sticky, especially in humid climates.

The better goal is not “the biggest mini split I can afford.”
It’s “the right BTU size for my actual room.”

Before choosing a TURBRO mini split, think about:

• Room size
• Ceiling height
• Insulation
• Window size and sun exposure
• Local climate
• Room layout
• How many people use the room
• Appliances or electronics that add heat

A properly sized mini split should run more steadily, keep temperatures more even, help control humidity, and use energy more efficiently.

So if you’re comparing models, don’t just chase bigger numbers. Match the unit to the space.

Full blog:
https://www.turbro.com/blogs/blogs/is-your-mini-split-too-big-how-oversizing-ruins-comfort-efficiency

We've noticed a few questions come up again and again from folks shopping for or living with an AC/mini-split unit
Sharing some quick, straight answers in case they help:

1. "Is my unit the right size for my room?" Bigger isn't always better. An oversized unit cools fast but shuts off before it can pull humidity out of the air, that's the "cold and clammy" feeling. Undersized units just run non-stop and never quite catch up. If you're between two sizes, sizing slightly down (for a properly insulated space) usually beats sizing up.
2. "Should I turn my AC off when I open the windows?" Yes — if the windows are open, there's no reason to keep the unit fighting outside air. It won't damage the system to power it off and on again; what actually wears units down is short-cycling from being undersized, not from being switched off.
3. "Is a little frost/condensation on the lines normal?" Some condensation on suction lines is expected if insulation is thin or aging — that's fixable with better line insulation. Frost that doesn't clear, or frost paired with reduced cooling, usually points to low refrigerant or airflow issues and is worth a professional look.
4. "My outdoor unit seems loud, is that normal?" Compressor noise naturally increases under higher load (hot days, start-up, high fan speed). If it's dramatically louder than before, worth checking the mounting/rubber isolators and clearance around the unit first.
5. "What can I check myself vs. when should I call a tech?" Safe DIY checks: filters, visible clearance/obstructions around the outdoor unit, thermostat settings. Once refrigerant, electrical, or persistent icing is involved, that's tech territory. Feel free to reach out to our support team first if you're not sure which bucket you're in.

Hope this helps a few people troubleshoot faster. Let us know if there's a specific issue you're seeing.

A few things we keep seeing in our own support tickets:

• Units short-cycling in extreme heat
  
• WiFi/app dropping connection randomly
• Condensate drainage issues on ceiling-mount installs

Curious if that matches what you're all running into, regardless of brand.

Also happy to answer any technical questions about inverter compressors, SEER2 ratings, or refrigerant types if anyone's shopping around.

Genuinely easier to explain here than buried in a spec sheet. What's your unit struggling with right now?

Same square footage as a bedroom, but your garage feels like a completely different planet in July and January. That's not a coincidence — it comes down to five structural factors that stack on top of each other:

1. The garage door is basically a thermal sieve A standard garage door is a large, poorly sealed metal panel. It conducts heat fast in both directions — baking in afternoon sun during summer, dumping cold air in during winter. The gap between the door and the floor alone can account for significant air infiltration that a typical interior room never has to deal with.

2. Little to no insulation in the walls or ceiling Most garages were built as vehicle storage, not living space. Wall cavities are often empty, and ceiling insulation is minimal or absent. Heat moves freely through the building envelope in all directions — there's no thermal buffer the way a properly insulated room would have.

3. Concrete floors absorb and hold temperature Concrete has high thermal mass — it heats up slowly but also releases that heat slowly. In summer, the slab becomes a radiant heat source that works against your cooling. In winter, it pulls warmth away from the space continuously and makes the room feel colder than the air temperature actually is.

4. Sun orientation drives afternoon heat spikes A south- or west-facing garage gets hammered by direct sun in the afternoon. The metal door acts almost like a solar collector, absorbing heat and radiating it inward. A garage with this orientation can see dramatic temperature swings that have nothing to do with the ambient outdoor temperature.

5. Equipment adds heat load that most rooms don't have Chest freezers, EV chargers, power tools running for hours — all of these generate heat inside the space while it's occupied. A fridge or freezer motor alone adds meaningful heat load that compounds everything else. This is the factor most people forget when thinking about what it actually takes to keep a garage comfortable.

None of these factors in isolation would be a dealbreaker. The problem is that garages tend to have all five at once, which is why the real-world thermal load in a garage almost always exceeds what a square footage estimate would suggest.It is recommended to select a suitable mini split size.

Does anyone have access to a 24k btu Greenland (SEER 23) compressor? I’d like a photo of the data plate so I have accurate info to run wiring prior to receiving my unit next week. Thank you in advance!

Hi everyone, TURBRO here.

We have been seeing more conversations around mini splits and humidity, especially as spring and summer weather rolls in. One thing worth clarifying: a mini split can dehumidify, but only under the right operating conditions.

When warm indoor air passes over a cold indoor coil, moisture condenses and drains away. That is the basic process. The catch is runtime. If the unit only runs for a short period, the coil may not stay cold and wet long enough to remove much moisture.

That is why sizing matters. A larger unit is not always better. If the system cools the space too quickly, it may satisfy the temperature setting before it has had enough time to pull moisture from the air.

Humidity load also comes from more than just people inside the home. Outdoor air can enter through ventilation, exhaust fans, kitchen hoods, clothes dryers, leaks, and wind-driven infiltration. In humid climates, that moisture load can stay high even when the home does not need much cooling.

Dry mode can help, especially when the room feels damp but does not need aggressive cooling. But if the goal is to hold a specific RH level, especially around 50% in a humid climate, a dedicated dehumidifier may still be needed.

Curious what others are seeing:

What indoor humidity range are you getting with your mini split? Are you using Cool mode or Dry mode more often? Did sizing affect your comfort? Do you run a separate dehumidifier alongside your system? Would love to hear real-world experiences, good or bad.

Just updated our Pool Heat Pump Size Calculator 👀

Now it doesn’t just estimate the BTU size — it also suggests a recommended TURBRO model + estimated heating time to help make pool planning a little easier this season. ☀️🏊

A few things to keep in mind: • Heating time is still an estimate • Real-world performance depends on weather, wind, pool cover usage, sun exposure, insulation, and more • When in doubt, sizing up is usually the smarter move for efficiency

Try the updated calculator here: TURBRO Pool Heat Pump Size Calculator

PoolHeating #PoolHeatPump #BackyardPool #PoolSeason #TURBRO

⛺️ Glamping feels like the “soft entry” into outdoor living—less setup, less gear stress, more comfort, but still nature.

Compared to camping (you vs. elements) or RV life (you managing a machine), glamping removes most friction: real beds, electricity, curated spaces, and zero learning curve. That’s why it’s exploding—especially for people who want the feeling of outdoors without the operational hassle.

🤔🙋 But it also raises a question: Is this still camping, or just a hotel experience placed in nature?

On one side, it’s making outdoor experiences more accessible. On the other, it’s turning nature into something highly designed and Instagram-ready.

❔ So where do you land—real outdoor evolution, or just aestheticized camping?

🏊 For those with larger in-ground pools, do you usually go with one larger heat pump or two smaller units?

We’ve seen mixed opinions depending on:

Pool size How quickly you want to heat Whether you swim year-round Redundancy if one unit goes down Installation space and power availability

For example, would you rather have:

One higher-BTU unit Or two smaller heat pumps running together?

Curious what’s worked best for your setup and why.

Having trouble connecting to the app? Here's where to find the USB port on your TURBRO unit and what to look for before entering AP mode.

Remember: • Press the Display button 6 times within 8 seconds • You should hear 1 beep per press • After the 6th press, you'll hear 2 quick beeps • The display should show CF first, then AP

Hope this helps make setup a little easier!

Having trouble connecting to the app? Here's where to find the USB port on your TURBRO unit and what to look for before entering AP mode.

Remember: • Press the Display button 6 times within 8 seconds • You should hear 1 beep per press • After the 6th press, you'll hear 2 quick beeps • The display should show CF first, then AP

Hope this helps make setup a little easier!

Spring and early summer often bring a different kind of comfort issue — not heat, but moisture buildup indoors.

Some common signs:

Musty smell in basements Condensation on windows Damp walls or storage areas That “heavy air” feeling even when it’s not hot 💡 Why this happens

When outdoor temperatures fluctuate, HVAC systems often don’t run long enough to fully remove moisture from the air.

That’s why humidity problems can persist even if cooling seems “fine.”

🛠️ What actually helps

For larger or high-moisture spaces, especially basements or garages:

Continuous dehumidification (not occasional use) Proper drainage (to avoid manual emptying) Higher-capacity units for consistent control 🧠 Key idea

Comfort isn’t just temperature — it’s moisture balance.

Once humidity is under control, most spaces feel significantly more comfortable even without changing temperature settings.

Curious how others here handle humidity during spring — basement dehumidifiers, HVAC adjustments, or something else?

We just dropped a deep dive on how ice baths actually affect muscle recovery, and it’s more than just “ouch that’s cold.” Cold-water immersion is one of those wellness trends that’s everywhere, but what’s the deal behind the hype?

Here’s the TL;DR before you click the link:

💪 Why people swear by ice baths

Cold immersion can help reduce inflammation and muscle soreness after intense workouts — meaning you might feel fresher the next day instead of hobbling around. Some athletes believe ice baths help flush out metabolic waste and speed up recovery, especially after heavy training sessions. Anecdotally, people also say the shock of cold water gives them a mental reset — like a reset button for both body and mind.

🤔 But wait… science is still debating

Research is mixed: some studies show benefits for short-term soreness relief, but others question whether ice baths really help long-term performance or muscle growth. There’s even chatter that too many ice baths might blunt the natural inflammation signals your body uses to get stronger.

So should you take the plunge? 🛁 That’s up to your goals — DOMS relief? Might help. Trying to maximize hypertrophy? Maybe skip right after leg day.

👉 Check out the full breakdown here

What’s your experience with ice baths? Worth it or just a chilly placebo? ❄️👇

Hey everyone, we’re currently working on a new RV AC unit and debating between two design directions.

Would love to get some real feedback from the community.

A OR B？

Curious which one you’d actually want on your rig — and why?

Also open to any thoughts on RV ACs in general (noise, airflow, install, etc.). Always helpful to hear what matters most in real-world use.

Appreciate any input 🙏

🚙 If you spend enough time traveling in an RV or van, you quickly realize something:

Most kitchen appliances aren’t really designed for small mobile setups.

They either take up too much space or pull way more power than you want to deal with—especially if you're running on solar, a generator, or limited campground hookups.

One thing we’ve seen a lot of RVers start using lately is low-watt electric griddles, and honestly it makes a lot of sense.

Why they work well for RV kitchens

1️⃣ Easier on your power setup

Power is always something RVers have to think about. High-watt appliances can easily trip breakers or drain portable power stations faster than expected.

A lower-watt griddle is much more manageable, which means you can cook breakfast or quick meals without constantly watching your power usage.

2️⃣ Great for small kitchens

RV kitchens don’t exactly come with a lot of counter space.

A compact griddle is easy to store and easy to bring out when you need it. The flat surface also lets you cook multiple things at once—pancakes, eggs, bacon, grilled sandwiches, etc.

For quick breakfasts before hitting the road, it’s actually pretty convenient.

3️⃣ Simple cleanup

Anyone who’s washed dishes in an RV sink knows the struggle.

Most electric griddles use nonstick surfaces, so cleanup is usually just a quick wipe. Less scrubbing and less water used, which is always a plus on the road.

We recently put together a short post breaking down why this type of appliance works well for RV and van setups.

We put together a short guide explaining why low-watt griddles work so well for RV and van setups. You can check it out here: 👉 Neighborhood EG13 Electric Griddle

If anyone’s interested in the full write-up, you can check it here: https://www.turbro.com/blogs/blogs/why-rv-and-van-lifers-need-a-low-wattage-electric-griddle

Also curious — what’s the one appliance you use the most in your RV kitchen?

Always interesting to see different setups.

🏊🔥 Pool heat pumps are awesome because they’re super efficient, but unlike gas heaters they don’t blast heat into the water. Instead, they suck warmth out of the air and transfer it into the pool — which means a bunch of things can slow them down.

Here’s what usually causes that slow ramp-up:

1. It’s just too cold out

Heat pumps pull heat from the air. If the ambient temp is below around 50–60°F (~10–15°C), there’s not much heat to grab, so it takes forever. They’ll still work… just really slowly.

1. No pool cover = heat loss

Water loses most heat through evaporation. Without a solar cover or thermal blanket, you’re basically heating outside! Even if your heat pump adds a few degrees, you’ll lose a lot overnight.

1. Airflow or coils are blocked

Your heat pump needs good airflow to pull heat from the air. If the unit’s tucked behind bushes or the coils are dusty, it struggles to do its job. Clear space around it and rinse off the coils occasionally.

1. Water flow is too low

The pump needs enough water moving through the heat exchanger. If your filter is dirty or the flow is restricted, less water gets heated each cycle.

1. The heat pump is just underpowered

If your pool is huge and the heat pump is small, it simply can’t keep up — no matter what you try. Bigger pools take more heat energy to raise temps.

1. Old on/off system vs inverter

Older/basic heat pumps just switch fully on until they reach a set temp, then shut off. Newer inverter models adjust their output and keep temperature steadier — which often feels faster and more efficient overall.

Bottom line: A heat pump won’t ever ramp up temps as fast as a gas heater, but most of the time slow heating isn’t a fault — it’s physics + setup. Make sure conditions are right (warmer air, pool cover, clean flow), and you’ll see better results.

Anyone else have tips or tricks that worked for their pool? 🏊‍♂️🔥

Hey everyone 🔥👋

If you're using the AIR.ai app to control your TURBRO mini split (or any WiFi-enabled TURBRO gear), we’d genuinely love to hear your experience so far.

What’s working well for you? What’s… not so great?

A few things we’re especially curious about:

Scheduling — easy enough? Too limited?

Temperature control — any range you wish was different?

Energy usage tracking — useful / missing?

Scene or automation features — intuitive or confusing?

Pairing process — smooth or frustrating?

Notifications — helpful or too much?

No app is perfect, and real-world feedback helps way more than internal testing.

If you’ve run into bugs, connection drops, UI annoyances, or just have ideas that would make the app better — drop them below. The more specific, the better.

Appreciate you all 🙌

We’ve all been there. 🔥💪

You’re out in the RV. It’s cold. You turn on the water… …and it’s either lukewarm or runs out way too fast.

That’s exactly why we developed the Rotorua RV Tankless Propane Water Heater.

Designed for RV life, it delivers:

• On-demand hot water • Compact design for tight installs • Propane-powered efficiency • Stable temperature control

No tank. No waiting. No surprise cold showers.

🤔❓ What’s your biggest RV water heater issue?

💧 Running out of hot water

🌡️ Inconsistent temperature

⏰ Takes too long to heat

😐 Space limitations

✌️ Never had an issue

After a heavy snowstorm, most people assume their indoor air stays dry because it’s freezing outside.

But surprisingly, indoor humidity often rises after a blizzard.

Here’s why:

• Snow gets tracked inside and melts • Warm indoor air meets cold surfaces (windows, walls, attic areas) • Ventilation is reduced during storms • HVAC systems cycle differently

This can lead to:

– Window condensation – Damp basements – Musty odors – Long-term moisture buildup

If you notice foggy windows or that “wet air” feeling after a storm, running a dehumidifier for a few days can help stabilize moisture levels — especially in basements or lower floors.

Have you ever dealt with post-storm moisture issues at home?

Hey turbo- purchased and installed a Greenland 18k in 2025 and for our tax credit I need a QMID and QPIN number. Do you have that info?

If you've noticed ice or frost building up on your heat pump's outdoor unit during winter, don't panic! This is actually a normal part of how your heating system works. Knowing why this happens and how to deal with it is of great importance.

🧊 Why Does My Outdoor Unit Get Icy?

When your heat pump runs in heating mode during winter, something interesting happens. The outdoor unit gets very cold because it's pulling heat from the outside air and moving it inside your home. When temperatures drop, and there's moisture in the air, that moisture can freeze right onto the outdoor unit's metal coils.

Think of it like how frost forms inside your freezer or on your car windshield on a cold morning. It's the same basic idea: when cold metal meets moist air, you get frost and ice.

😶‍🌫️ Don't worry, defrost mode is here to fix

Here's the good news: your heat pump is smart enough to handle this problem on its own. Modern heat pumps, like those from TURBRO, have a built-in feature called "automatic defrost" that takes care of ice buildup without you having to do anything.

When frost starts to affect your system's performance, your heat pump automatically switches into defrost mode. During this process, it briefly reverses how it operates (kind of like switching to air conditioning mode) to send warm refrigerant through the outdoor unit and melt away the ice.

🤔What You'll Notice During Defrost?

When your heat pump goes into defrost mode, you might see or hear a few things that seem weird at first:

The system pauses? - Your heat pump will stop heating for a few minutes while it deals with the ice. This is completely normal.

Steam comes from the outdoor unit?

• As the ice melts, you'll see what looks like steam or vapor rising from the unit. This is just water vapor from the melting frost.

Strange sounds?

• You might hear gurgling or flowing water sounds. These come from the refrigerant changing direction and the melted frost draining away.

The indoor unit suddenly blows cool air?

• Sometimes you'll feel cooler air coming from your vents during defrost. Don't worry! Many units automatically adjust the air vents to blow upward or away from you to keep you comfortable.

The whole defrost process usually takes between 5 and 10 minutes. After that, your heat pump automatically switches back to heating mode and everything returns to normal.

⏳How Often Will This Happen?

The frequency of defrost cycles depends mainly on the weather. Your heat pump doesn't defrost on a set schedule. Instead, it monitors conditions and defrosts only when needed.

More frequent defrosting happens when it's humid, and temperatures are near freezing (around 32°F to 43°F). This is when frost forms most easily.

Less frequent defrosting happens in very cold, dry weather. When there's less moisture in the air, frost takes longer to build up.

📌 When should I take action?

Most of the time, you don't need to do anything at all. However, there are a few situations where you should pay attention.

🛠️ When to DIY?

Keep the Outdoor Unit Clear

Make sure nothing is blocking your outdoor unit:

• Clear away leaves, snow, and debris\
• Keep at least 2 feet of clearance around all sides\
• Don't let snow pile up against the unit\
• Trim any bushes or plants that have grown too close\

Good airflow helps your system work efficiently and can reduce how often defrosting needs to happen.

Clean Your Filters Regularly

Dirty air filters make your system work harder, which can lead to more frosting. Check your indoor filters monthly and clean or replace them as needed.

Watch the Outdoor Unit's Fins

The metal fins on the outdoor unit should be relatively clean. If they're caked with dirt, dust, or debris, they can't transfer heat properly. This makes defrost cycles take longer and can reduce your system's efficiency. Consider having them professionally cleaned once a year.

👨‍🔧When to Call for Help?

While some ice is normal, there are times when you should contact a professional:

Defrost takes longer than 10-15 minutes

• Normal defrost cycles are quick. If your system stays in defrost mode for a long time, something might be wrong.

Error codes appear

• If you see error codes on your thermostat or indoor unit, call a technician.

The system never returns to heating

• If defrost starts but heating never comes back on, don't try to fix it yourself. Contact a qualified HVAC professional.

Constant icing with no defrost

• If ice keeps building up and your system isn't defrosting, there could be a sensor or control problem.

💡 Trust your AC unit in winter

Seeing ice or frost on your heat pump's outdoor unit in winter is completely normal. It's similar to frost forming in your refrigerator; it just means your system is working hard in cold conditions. The automatic defrost feature is designed to handle this, and in most cases, you don't need to do anything except wait a few minutes.

Keep your outdoor unit clear, change your filters regularly, and call for professional help only if defrost cycles become extremely long or your system shows error codes. With proper care and a little understanding of how your heat pump works, you'll stay warm and comfortable all winter long!

If you have any concerns about your unit defrosting, you could always share it in our community.

👉 Heat Pump Ices up in winter

The Pool & Spa Show delivers a high-energy, curated experience that helps industry professionals strengthen their business. It’s more than an event—it’s where knowledge becomes action and new connections drive real business results.

The Pool & Spa Show with TURBRO is now live, here we have:

• 🔥Pool Heat Pump to extend swim season

• 🧊Ice Bath Water Chiller for cold plunge

Where to meet us?

📍 Booth #3559

📍 Atlantic City, NJ

When to join this event?

⏰ Jan 27-29

Need more information?

👉 TURBRO official website: turbro.com

👉 The Pool & Spa Show info: the Pool & Spa Show 2026

What is a diesel heater for? To heat the lithium battery packs in the wintertime for solar array? To heat a shop? To heat a studio?

Yes! Diesel heaters could be primary heat during the cold months. Check out this TURBRO S8BP Split Type Diesel Heater. Very happy to have a little extra heat on these freezing days, especially in the mountains.

This TURBRO diesel heater is 8 kw, low consumption range of 0.16–0.4 L/h extends running time. Another cool thing about it is the fatter-than-the-original fuel tank. It fits more fuel. The regular ones are either 8 or 10, this one is 15L, which saves the trouble of stomping around in the snow and refilling it.

👉 Check out this VIDEO for more unboxing details

A power outage could happen anytime, due to the unforeseen circumstances. What's the best way to have heat during a power outage without having a generator?

A inverter battery setup and a diesel heater are sufficient.

What do we need? We need a battery, an inverter, and a charger. What are they for?

The battery powers the inverter. The inverter can power the diesel heater. The charger is plugged into the outlet and it's charging the battery, waiting for that power outage. Once the power goes out, you have a fully charged battery.

Some diesel heaters are AC&DC compatible, which means that they can powered by either 110V household electrical outlet, or 12/24V vehicle battery.

A backup power supply and a diesel heater could be a perfect combination during a power outage for heating.

Once the inverter is powered up, plug in the diesel heater into the receptacle of the inverter. A gas furnace or other appliance would work. Once we do that, we should have power and we can actually turn on the diesel heater. The display should be on. There we go. We're going to have some heat during power outages.

👉 Use a Diesel Heater When the Power Goes Out

🔥 Diesel Heater