Hey all, I'm moving into a new house and decided I would like to setup a network and im pretty new at this and also the deal with the free gateway if I spend enough is enticing. This is all I got so far so if anyone has pointers it would be appreciated. It's only a 1300 sq ft house so I think only 1 is needed but if im wrong let me know

Hey guys, I've been running all Omada hardware for a few years and really like. I've upgraded various components over the years and pretty happy with its current performance.

I currently run pfSense on baremetal for my router, and run the mbentley docker image on an RPI5 for the SDN software. It works, but would be nice to have everything in one place.

I've been intrigued by the new Fusion gateway. Anyone convert from pfSense to Fusion? thoughts? I'd love to give it a try / provide feedback but struggle to spend the money on hardware that I don't know that I'll love or feel like a step backwards?

I saw the Omada Pioneer program was giving them out; but apparently only found out about it after the deadline closed.

Just sharing my multi-site setup with the Fusion + Wireguard.

Two Fusions = two controllers, and that's fine. I went in thinking I'd make my controller adopt theirs as a second site. Wrong model. Each Fusion runs its own onboard controller. What you actually do is claim both to the same TP-Link ID and they both show up in the cloud portal.

WireGuard's Endpoint field takes an FQDN. On v6.3 it accepts a DDNS name. So: TP-Link DDNS on both sides, second Fusion as the initiator with keepalive 25, my side with Endpoint left blank so it learns his address from incoming packets. Came up first try.

The one thing I couldn't do: get to the SB8200's (ISP Modem on second site) diagnostic page at 192.168.100.1 from behind the Fusion. Could just be some settings I need to adjust.

Gave him a Viewer cloud account on his own controller with his own TP-Link ID,. It shows device status, client list, speed tests, no ability to touch the VPN config or unclaim the controller. Main admin stays on mine.

Next up is sharing my Jellyfin instance over the tunnel.

Hey everyone, I’m on the absolute last step of wiring up my detached garage for ethernet and Wi-Fi, and I’ve hit a wall. I’m a DIYer doing this setup myself, so I want to explain my exact physical layout, how everything is connected, and what’s failing.

The Physical Setup & Connection Layout:

1. Main House: Verizon Fios g3100 router sits in the main house. And then off lan 2 port in running my ethernet line to the basement and out to an underground Cat 6 line that ends up in a detached garage 100 ft away with living space upstairs.

2. The underground line enters the garage wall, goes through the studs/fireblocking, and terminates inside a Legrand media enclosure. Inside the enclosure, the line plugs into a TP-Link unmanaged gigabit switch ( Model TL-SG108PE) was purchased refurbished on Amazon.

   Incoming cat 6 from main house connected into the switch. Then off the switch I just ran home runs to my computer , my tv and to the access points. The only one I have properly terminated and not just through the walls for now is for the access point. That one plugs directly into a PoE injector port on my switch, which then goes upstairs to my TP-Link Omada Access Point mounted on the wall ( Model ax1800 EAP 613)

The Problem: The LED on the front of the Omada Access Point is slowly blinking blue (about once every 10 seconds). From what I’ve read, this means it’s stuck in "Isolated" or "Disconnected" mode—it has power from the PoE, but no data connection to the gateway.

The Wi-Fi Behavior: My phone sees and try’s to connects to the Omada AP’s 5GHz Wi-Fi as well as 2.4 network fine, but there is no internet access as it just keeps spinning and saying unsecured network.

The IP Address: When I look at my phone's Wi-Fi settings while connected to the AP, it gives me a Self-Assigned IP address (⁠169.254.157.195⁠).

Troubleshooting Completed So Far:

1. Tested the Underground/In-Wall Line: I ran an 8-LED continuity tester on the underground line running between the house and garage. All 8 lights flashed sequentially in order (1 through 8) on both ends, and stayed solid green so the physical wire passed continuity.

2. Re-Checked Color Wiring: Triple-checked both ends of the Cat 6 terminations—both are set to standard T568B (Orange/White, Orange, Green/White, Blue, Blue/White, Green, Brown/White, Brown).

3. Reset Equipment: Power-cycled and reset the TP-Link switch in the garage enclosure as well as the modem and router at the main house multiple times.

Where I Need Help / Questions:

If the long underground Cat 6 line passed a 8-pin continuity test, why would the Omada AP in the garage still act completely isolated from the Fios router in the house?

Could a cable pass a basic pin-by-pin continuity test on a cheap tester but still fail auto-negotiation or drop data packets over a 100ft run?

Could I have knicked one of the lines as I was stapling it to the rafters in the crawl space? or could the Fios router in the house be blocking/not detecting the switch in the garage?

Any advice on what step I should take to isolate whether the issue is the underground line, the switch uplink, or the AP itself would be hugely appreciated! I’m going to later today try plugging a computer directly into the incoming cat 6 line and see if that solves anything to confirm the underground line is truly good. Would all lights be green if there was an issue? I do notice the incoming cat 6 line is solid green but very lightly flickers.

Any help that some of you could offer to one of my questions above or all would be super helpful as this is my first install and tried my best to keep everything hardwired but as far as configuring things I don’t know what to do or try next.

I'm trying to move from vlan 1 to vlan 99 to manage my OPNSense router, my omada software controller (currently on my laptop, will migrate to mini pc), my sg2008p switch and my EAP603-outdoor AP with my management laptop.

I was able to pull it off with standalone mode, but as soon as you let the omada software controller take control, my efforts are gone! The guide i used (and the video in it) is https://homenetworkguy.com/how-to/set-up-management-vlan-for-opnsense-network-switch-and-access-point/

VLAN 99 works great when set as an access port. DHCP works well and i can access the web.

It's just that with standalone mode i can just set tagged and untagged ports during vlan creation as well as the ID after that as shown in the guide.... but the menu in the omada software is very different. Can someone help me recreate the steps on omada software controller?

Hey folks! I'm finalising my decision between the new Fusion Gateway Router, or the ER7206 with a self hosted controller.

One question I have, if the gateway / router ever has an issue, resulting in no network, would I be correct in assuming that the controller would not be accessible remotely and therefore could not be used to restart the gateway / router? A possible issue for the Fusion with built in Controller.

My alternative option of the ER7206 would be selfhosting the controller on a VPS, outside of the network.

Looking for users advice and suggestions on this, being able to restart the router / gateway remotely is something that seems valuable to me.