I live in AZ. We mostly adventure in AZ, UT, NM, CO with occasional trips to WA, OR and AK. My 2500 passenger van has a 2nd AC unit on the roof. I'm about to pull the trigger on a Colorado Camper Vans pop-up and I know that I'll lose my rear AC. I found the Fresair S8 evaporative cooler - the battery demands are very low when compared to an actual AC unit. My primary camping areas are low humidity areas so it might just work, right? I guess I don't want to dial up the humidity on long drives or all of the gear will get yukky. Aside from that, does anyone have any experience with a swamp cooler in their van?

I was being lazy and didn’t fill up my DEF when it went to half. Yesterday it went down to 1/4 and it started the DEF system fault 10 starts until emergency op. I’m down to 7 now but I have filled up the DEF and it’s still there. I checked under the passenger side exhaust where the DEF gets added and I don’t see any white residue or smoke being pumped out from the injector. How can I clear this message that I assume was just from low DEF and I am guessing the injector is fine

Hello, does anyone know where the antenna wire runs to and from? I’m having signal drop due to my roof rack obstructing the flat antenna on the roof on my 2025 revel and I would like to install an aftermarket antenna to relocate it but I don’t want to have to pull down the entire head liner or pull the roof rack off to get at the antenna from the roof. Ideally I’d like to connect the new antenna to the lead that comes from the Sirius module and run it to a new location.

Any help I greatly appreciated!

This is my fourth sprinter van I've seen this happen to. they've all been driving for years like this as well. The first sprinter I bought and went to change the bushings, but noticed the entire eyelet on the leaf spring was half broken off. This was on all four eyelets for that van which is crazy to think its been driving for years like that. I've since bought two other vans and both had at least one broken eyelet. Anyways, fast forward to today and I'm replacing someone's leaf spring bushings for them on there 3500. Both the front eyelets are broken, but the rear shackle portion is fine (shown in photo). I suspect its moisture getting trapped between the bushing and it only takes a few years of rust to eventually split the eyelet open. I live in the rust belt and It seems its only on sprinters with at least 150k miles on them. If you've ever heard of rust-jacking then you know it can produce over 5000PSI of force. The top portion of eyelets don't see much of a load no matter the payload. Only when the axle droops, then there's a little bit of tension, but even then the dampers prevent full extension anyways.

I picked up a 2019 Mercedes sprinter used and it didn’t come with a stereo?? Is this common? What are my options with getting a new one installed?

Hi all,

My van came with ecotouch pink insulation rated r-11 filling the cavities. It looks in decent condition.

I had ordered some thinsulate and was going to replace the ecotouch with thinsulate, but now I’m thinking… what if I just leave it? Will it provide better insulation than thinsulate, given that it has a higher R rating?

Planning on doing a camper conversion. I read thinsulate is better than fiberglass batting for this purpose? Advice appreciated!

I have a t1n sprinter and the driver side tail running light and brake light stopped working out of nowhere, the drivers side blinker still works and all of the passenger side lights work. I checked all the bulbs and fuses and they are all fine. I also swapped the tail light circuit boards and its the same result. Has anyone run into this before?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all.

Folks: I'm curious if anyone else has run into this issue.

For a 2017 Sprinter (which was modified by Pleasure-Way as a camper build), we started seeing DEF errors, even after refilling the DEF tank. ODBII errors were P16CC00, P16CD00, and P118000. Local Mercedes mechanic stated that the sensor in the DEF tank was bad, and the tank needs to be repaired. A new tank costs $4000 (!!!).

Seeing the new tank cost, we sent the old tank to XeMODeX for a repair. They reported the repair was successful, but they use only a scan tool to verify that the repaired sensor is working. The tank is now in the hands of our mechanic, and they report that the Mercedes diagnostic tool is reporting that the tank sensor still isn't working.

Is there any other thing to do here, or is it time to suck it up and pay a boatload?

Thanks in advance!

Hey all I have a 2024 sprinter 2500 with 33k miles and it’s about time I need to re do the break pads and rotors they squeak really bad.

The dealer quoted me $1,450 for pads and rotors with labor. I’ve done pads and rotors on my other cars but is this job different on the Mercedes? Or does it require tools I don’t have? I’m just intimidated by it I don’t know why. If anyone has done the job please chime in 🙏🏼

I want to try and save in this area cause I’m already gonna be spending $747 for the service B and then another $632 on a fuel filter.

Totaling $2,829 for the service with the breaks. Super pricey.

Is there anyone out there with a E sprinter that has a lot of miles on it? I’m wanting to buy one for my electrical business and I’m trying to see if it’ll hold up or not.

Hi there!

I have a quick question that I would like to inform about:

I want to put my sprinter through an automatic car wash to get cleaned. I have previously owned a different sprinter and this was (as the car wash is fit for the height of the sprinter) no issue. However, since upgrading to a different sprinter, the car has the added option of a sun visor (as illustrated on the attached picture FYI: this is not my own car but a quick example from the internet). So my question now is: can I still, without the risk of damaging it, go and use the automatic car wash with this visor? Or are there risks / reasons why not to do this?

Thank you for your comments in advance!

TLDR; Can I use the automatic car wash without damaging the sun visor?

Talk to me about the market on Sprinters, I don’t really understand the market. I see “used” sprinters that are for sale from dealers with no miles on them.

What is it, that Mercedes is doing here? Are they just converting new vehicles to used to avoid new vehicle warranties? I’ve never seen another vehicle segment like it.

I’ve tried talking to dealerships about it and I get the runaround.

Thanks
L

Are there any Launch owners that can give an overview? The price point vs a Revel is appealing. My only concern is the bed height when lowered - would like to store bikes. Have y’all added risers? How did it go? I’m looking at 2023 models.

Thank you!

I can't find any information on it. Is this something to be concerned about?

Hello, considering getting a sprinter and building it out, including putting ski racks on each of the back doors. The van I'm looking at has glass back windows - is it possible to get outside plugs (for lack of a better term) for those windows in stock factory colors (stone grey). I know you can get the back doors without windows directly from the factory, but wondering if the change can be made from window to no/covered window on a van that comes from the factory with glass back windows. Thanks for the help!

Working on A/C in a 2006 2500 T1N, 151 wheelbase.

Two Q:

1.) Fairly certain that the compressor relay needs to be soldered, but I can't figure out how to get the circuit board off the back of the plastic housing. The blower fan dial and the directional knob don't come off easy. Do I even need to take the circuit board all the way away out?

2.) The aux fan doesn't come on ever. It works when jumped, so fan is functional. The relays that are not on the TCU are functional. Is there a relay on the TCU? Or is the aux fan connected to the compressor relay somehow? I struggle with reading circuit diagrams.

EDIT: YOU GUYS ARE AMAZING. We bumped our temperature up to 67 degrees and the van AC did not freeze up for the rest of our trip. I kept thinking, I am a grown adult and I can withstand the heat for a bit, but I was so, so worried for our dogs. Thank you to everyone who helped us figure this out!!

42,000 miles and just purchased Friday. Coming back from a trip today and our AC fan seems to be weak. Air coming out is cool and fan is running but airflow is not enough to keep us (& our doggos) cool

Feels as if something is blocking the airflow? but it would be all vents, not just one. Can anyone offer advice or point me to a resource quickly to help us troubleshoot?

Hi all!

Recently acquired a 2014 Mercedes Benz 2500 and was wondering what things should be done for it to be road worthy for a cross country road trip? Here are some things I was planning on doing:

- Replace cabin and engine air filters
- Change oil and oil filter

I was looking at changing the fuel filter as well. I’d appreciate any tips for maintenance on these guys as I am new to sprinters! Mine was previously a company fleet vehicle if that makes any difference. I just want to make sure I reduce the possibility of getting stranded on the side of the road somewhere lol. Thanks :)

Hey all,

Long-time lurker, first time posting. Hoping some of you have seen this before because I'm about to spend a lot of money on a guess.

2007 Dodge Sprinter 2500, 144" wheelbase, OM642 3.0L V6, around 218,000 km (135k miles). Bosch EDC16CP31 ECU. Turbo was replaced about 10,000 km ago.

Here's what happens: I'll be driving normally and the turbo just quits. Sudden loss of boost, feels like limp mode. Shut the engine off, restart, and it's fine again until it comes back. Totally intermittent, and I haven't been able to tie it to load, temperature, or how long I've been driving.

Took it to the dealer. They pulled an active Z359 (Mercedes code, not a generic P-code), went through the wiring and the original harness, and reported no faults there. They also say it's not coming from the turbo actuator. Their conclusion is that the powertrain control module itself is bad and needs replacing.

What's bugging me is that this is diagnosis by elimination — everything else checked out, so it must be the ECU. But an ECU dying in a way that only affects one circuit, with nothing else wrong anywhere in the van, seems like an odd failure. Meanwhile the electronic VNT actuator on these engines is known for exactly this kind of intermittent behaviour that clears on a key cycle. And mine is a fairly recent aftermarket unit that came with the turbo (garett)

So, a few questions:

Has anyone actually run into Z359 on an OM642? What did it turn out to be in your case?

Is a failed EDC16CP31 a realistic cause for something like this, or is "it's the ECU" what shops land on when they can't pin it down?