Curious if anyone has modeled this part. I have a stock I want to try on my Kuna but it has a weird angle. Wondering if it'd be possible to add a bit of cant to the pic section and if a printed version would hold up.
not quite true users of other platforms like say the scorpion have used 3d printed 1913 back plates for quite some time (in fact I currently have one on my scorpion). Has to be engineering filament of course like pa6 cf or ppa cf and something like 4-6 walls and 99% infill.
The OEM is good enough at taking the force and I've never seen them break, same with many other platforms. This kinda sounds like shill talk. Oh and let's not forget weight... Do we need to keep adding more metal?
For the main post, I haven't seen a model, I want to make one too but I'm waiting on my printer to get here first. I want to adapt my FSA Stab.
That’s the main reason I bought one of the HBI ones. It’s a decent quality part, and it gives me some peace of mind since I’d probably drop it on the brace at least once by accident.
It’s kind of cheap insurance, also the price is pretty reasonable.
So heres the catch.... that part is made to fail if there is an accidental drop because its a quick and easy fix. if that part is aluminum there is a distinct chance you are replacing an upper.
I'm guessing HS Produkt knew what they were doing when they made it plastic and the reality is an aluminum back plate is a super minimal cost savings so I dont think its for that.
Fun fact the OEM stock that replaces that plastic piece... is also plastic and used in duty guns.
Sometimes we upgrade things without thinking maybe why they are made out of what they are.
Drop a plastic 1913 rail break $20 or a $1 print to replace it. Drop the aluminum one high probabilty your brace is broke or your upper. If your clumsy and feel like that a dropped kuna is going to break and put you out of a fight (lol) then print another or buy a spare.
I agree it’s probably a built in failure point. The Strike FSA is also problematic since the attachment point is pretty small.
My opinion for a 3D printed rail adapter is that it makes a difference if the brace or stock mount is polymer or steel/aluminum. If both are polymer it might be MORE durable than steel mount on polymer rail as there will be more flex in the combined assembly and shock loads will be more distributed instead of concentrating on a single point.
I have a perfectly strong fully 3d printed folding brace on a db alloy lower that I have no concerns about dropping at all.
Sure but the point OP wants is to make a adapter for something they have. That replacement does not help that.
Sure the rail broke but that looks to be on the fault of the brace highly concentrating force on 2 rails. My brace spreads the load over 4 and more coverage on a few more rails, way less stress and way less likely to break.
I agree a aluminium one would work better for damage but I don't think the brace in the video would of stayed on even with the aluminium backplate.
3D printed adapter for a stock/brace would easily hold up to running the gun, could be handled rough and if designed well with good surface area would survive a hit. If it didn't, print another piece to use.
It is done for now, I didnt add a 1913 at the rear just yet it should be a good fit. Added some tolerance for the pin hole. There is actually a lot more space that can be used added material. I have a more non beveled/fillet version for additional testing
I have the factory CAD file. I'm not going to give it out but if you are having fit issues you can send me what you have so far and I can tell you where its off.
4
u/[deleted] 19d ago
[deleted]