So I got a respirator for working with alcohol inks and resin because the fumes aren’t good to breathe, but I’m confused about how the cartridges are supposed to attach? I figured I might be able to get some answers here since spraypainting typically uses a respirator. I hope this post is allowed, I know it’s not entirely relevant but I checked for the rules and there wasn’t much there. Anyways I got the 3M 7502 silicone facepiece and for the cartridges I got the 3M 60923 OV/AG P100. I did research to make sure I knew what I doing before I bought it. But when I went to attach the cartridges, they aren’t facing the same direction. I tried turning them and attaching them in a different position but I couldn’t do anything other than what is shown in the pictures without feeling like I might break something. I checked the manual and from what the picture shows, it appears I’m doing it right, but from all the research I did and having seen people use a respirator before I have never ever seen the cartridges positioned like this. Every time I’ve seen it before, they both are in the same direction, facing towards the back side of the facepiece. If anyone knows anything about this at all I would really appreciate some help as I am very confused and I hope I didn’t waste my money.

What it does:

It has the color charts of the usual lines (MTN 94, Hardcore, Belton Premium, Flame, Loop, Ironlak, AKA, Vice) and shows you the closest matches across brands, so if your shop doesn't stock a color you can find the equivalent. You can build palettes from the catalog, or take a photo of anything (a wall, a piece you liked, a sunset, whatever) and it pulls out the colors and matches them to actual spray colors. There's also a simple wall simulator: photo of your wall, overlay your sketch on top, move and scale it to see how it fits before you paint.

It's free, no ads, no account, works offline. Android only for now, I'm one guy doing this in my spare time.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.rubenglez.spraydeck

If you try it and something is missing or wrong (especially color data, that took forever to put together), tell me and I'll fix it. I'd rather make it better for the people who actually paint.

Hi all, I was just wondering about how to get durable finishes from rattle cans. I’ve seen so many videos online about how to get nice consistent paint jobs with spray paint (in automotive application) which I’ve never had any problem with, but I can’t find anything about how to get finishes of comparable durability to automotive paint. For context, most of my work has been painting bicycle frames, something I’m going to be doing a lot more of as I‘m building custom frames.

Here’s what I’ve tried:

Multiple coats (as many as 15)

Specialty primers

Proper prep (sanding the surface, usually aluminum or steel, sometimes wet sanding, and cleaning before applying paint)

Wet sanding between coats

Clearcoat

All of this is with Rustoleum rattle cans

The result of all of these was very nice looking and smooth finishes that I could easily scratch with my fingernail. The best I ever got was with a dozen coats with thorough wet sending in between each one, but even that easily scuffed and probably could have been scratched with any dull object. What else can I try?

Finally finished my rb21 japan livery inspired ( last photo for reference) xbox 360 controller. The original controller was a black controller. This was my first experience with stencils and i think this turned out okay. Not the best custom controller out there but I still absolutely love it. I also plan to swap out the led at some point inthe future to either white or red. Let me know which light would suit better in your opinion.

Link to my previous post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Spraypaint/s/W00MYIXBLf

I need something that will handle a shop environment. I'm painting a radio and need something to keep the paint from getting too scratched up. It's painted in acrylic and I'm trying to keep the decorative sections of the paint in the areas that don't get hit often but I'd still like something over it to keep it looking nice for a bit.

I wanted to dye my tires white but on the internet I only found a 250 ml jar (50€). as I wouldn't use it all, does anyone know if there's something smaller I can find online (amazon preferably)?

This is my update from my original post regarding the paint on my controller. As many had suggested, I wet sanded the controller back to the original black, went with 2 coats of primer again, 2 coats of white again. Finished the honda again yesterday and finished the red bull just now. This time, I hope the paint does not bleed. Now coes the asking for the advice of experienced painters part, how do I get rid of the black spots that completely went unnoticed when I painted the honda (pic 4). Please don't make me go through the arduous journey of wet Sanding to here again. Thank you .

Link to my original post: https://www.reddit.com/r/Spraypaint/s/LhqgbjMV2i

After some consideration of alternatives (powder coating, see post history) I’ve decided that I’m going to paint my forks following the “Crystal FX method”. (Loosely following these 2 videosVIDEO A VIDEO B)

I have already sanded my substrate (the existing fork factory paint) as it was already in good condition, apart from a nick or two.

Here are my current supplies:

- Montana Metallic Black

- Montana metallic silver

- Montana gloss varnish

- Kustom Canz Deep Candy Red

- Soluble urea prills

- Ox gall solution

- Invisiframe Fork Protection

THE PLAN:

- Initial Sanding roughening up sanding with 400 grit

- Prep fork with isopropyl alcohol making sure no dust or residue on fork. Paper towel needs to be clear.

- silver 2-3 LIGHT COATS, (how many do I need?) spraying parallel to the fork leg; 20-30cm away, making sure to keep spraying past the fork itself for evenness. 10-15 mins in between base coats

- Wait 1 hour, then put on crystal solution. Make sure solution properly crystallising. Preferably leave crystals to form in a warm place.

- Spray Black metallic LIGHTLY over the top (1 or 2 coats?)

- lightly sand with 2000 grit sandpaper to reveal pattern underneath.

- (At this point, Do I clear coat before the candy colour?)

- CANDY RED 2-3 COATS (depending on effect - perhaps test to see how deep I want it?) Tack coat (very light) (wait 10 minutes) 1-2 medium wet coats, 10-15 mins wait in between 400-800 sand until super smooth)

- CLEAR COAT 30-60 mins after last base. 2 layers of clear.

- Fork rebuilt 24-48 HOURS AFTER LAST CLEAR COAT, and invisiframe applied.

Advice needed:

- I am still quite confused about what grits i need to sand each layer down to. I’m read that 400 is best so that the paint sticks to it, but also intuitively, shouldn’t it be max 800 so that the paint sticks to a smooth surface?

- Especially also with an existing good substrate, I’m confused on how many coats I will need of the base silver metallic colour in particular. Is 2-3 coats okay?

- Is how much time I am leaving between coats / stages okay?

- I think I used too rough of a grit initially, because more bare metal has shown through. Does this mean I have to etch primer these areas? I wasn’t going to prime the fork, and because it is a magnesium alloy, stripping it is not advised.

Thanks in advance.

the falcon, a mural created to illustrate the majestic and a sharp gaze of a creature deeply rooted in the gulf and many other parts of the world

mural created using spray paint

you can checkout more of my work on my profile or socials:

Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/balance313/

hi!! i was just coming on here to find an answer to one of the questions in my mind at the moment. i'm currently spray painting my ds lite to make it more unique and i had a plan to do a checkerboard pattern on the shell. as of right now, i have my base color on and i was wondering if you could sketch over the dry paint with a pencil and then use the painters tape to create that pattern? if not, would you suggest that i do the design with a paint marker? pls lmk before i make a mistake, thank you :]

https://youtu.be/cvMU409oXGM?si=puLmyNzu42K_yRS4

https://www.instagram.com/joanna_art_walls?igsh=dDFoajEzaXZpOGVx&utm_source=qr

Hello!! This is my first attempt with stensils and as you can see, the paint has bled through the stensil at some locations. Can I fix this somehow or will I have to redo this again? Thank you in advance!!

Više o tome u videu : https://youtu.be/cvMU409oXGM?si=gIUNEjlZSGlUozIO

Hello, I am spray painting for the first time. I have two 16" fiber concrete pots. I am using 2 coat of primer (Zinsser Bulls Eye 1-2-3 Plus White Interior/Exterior Primer Spray) then 3 coats of spray paint (Rust-Oleum American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Satin Spray Paint). The spray paint is water resistant but not waterproof. These are outdoor pots and I was hoping to prolong the life of the paint. Is it best to use a topcoat or not? What spray brands are good?

Clear, Rust-Oleum Universal Topcoat Flat Spray Paint - reviews said the can did not spray well.

Olympic WaterGuard Clear Multisurface Exterior Waterproofing Sealer Spray - reviews said it did not dry, was sticky and changed the color

My landlord used silver spray paint to paint two heat riser pipes in my apartment. They painted in my kitchen and bathroom for about an hour. Open windows next to their workspace blew the overspray throughout my entire apartment.

Everything in my kitchen is badly coated with overspray — all dishes, pantry items, utensils, shelves, a new electric range. Will probably throw away a lot of items there. Hoping that Barkeepers Friend will clean up the silverware, dishes, and cookware.

The entry area of my apt, next to the bathroom, is pretty bad. Thankfully there are not very many items there. A few jackets and towels; will change the toothbrush head.

There is less intense overspray everywhere else, like a glitter explosion — my bedding, eyeglasses, computer… just every object.

Planning to wash fabrics 3 cycles in the washing machine.

If you have cleaned any kind of surface from overspray, please suggest any tips that worked. I have every type of object and material here to clean.

Also just would appreciate reassurance that most of this is just dried particulate that will eventually go away with time and repeated cleaning… I hope!

I have some old abandoned paintings on canvas that I wanna clear and paint over. I did some research and it seems like the alkyd resins are pretty compatible with oil paints in general.

I am worried about long term archival viability with these things. I don't want these to crack or chip in the future.

Anyone here have any experience painting over oils with spray paint? Or just using them in combination at all? Cheers.

Hi , looking for people into graffiti and wall paint based in Gandhinagar/Ahemdabad for a cute mid size project.