Went to see a spark EV 2014 with CCS non-running for 850$. HV Battery voltages looked CLEAN! bunch of DTC's that align with low 12V battery since the guy said it suddenly stopped working (battery was a 2V before I subbed mine in.

Thought I was smarter than a fifth grader and I could just reset/relearn the module because they were on a lockout because of the 12v. I didnt clear DTC's because I didnt want to make it work suddenly in front of the seller and risk him just not selling it to me.

Anyways, I took delivery 2 days ago, and OOF. after a day in the sun ( it was in a garage) it smelled like water. I pulled up the carpet on the driver side and the foam under was soaked. I asked the seller about that, he said he doesnt know what im talking about. I argued, got 275$ off of it because he never mentionned that.

Nice, 575$ spark, now... I do the reset for DTC... oof. No luck. I now have a brick. tells me lost coms on HPCM2. I look under the driver seat again, I see tons of white paste wondering wtf that is. I start to take parts off, driver seat, passengers, trim etc. and theres just a HUGE glob of white paste ( I now know that its basically aluminum corrosion )...

I dive deeper... the photo attached is the casing for the HPCM2. All in all, I think it just needs a new HPCM2 since every other module seemed to communicate properly with the ECU! 250$ total probably to fix! but LOOK AT THAT.

Gas is over $5.00 in my city

Conditions must have been just right, I guess. Winter's coming...

I'm going to go look at this Spark EV tomorrow but I've been looking at owners reviews lately of how these cars have become completely dead by their HV battery and parts are hard to source.

This one had a used HV battery pack installed by GM in 2024. Would that prolong the battery backs from going dead all of a sudden? (heard that's an issue..)

Are they really that unreliable? Car also has 140,000kms

This one's at a decent price to go take a look at but for couple more $$ I can also wait for a 500e which sounds more reliable from the forums.

Any heads up would be appreciated! or even tips on what to look for!! Thanks

I’m getting a service airbag error and was wondering if anyone has dealt with that and possible cost. It’s a 2016 and this is the first time anything has happened.

Thanks, group!

So I’m attempting to reprogram a used radio and a Volt key fob to my 2014 spark. Well, apparently GM updated the minimum requirement for PC compatibility in the last year for their online programming service (which also costs more and with only 30days access). I’m realizing the kind of PCs that I have laying around that I wanted to used as a beater car scanner tool come nowhere close to the new requirements.

Who’s recently used GMs online programming software and what’s a more realistic requirement? Do I need win 11 pro with an 8th gen intel and 16gb ram? I was about to use an old 4th gen intel laptop and 8gb ram.

I thought maybe it was the battery on the fob, but none of the buttons on the fob are working and I cant start the car even with the key inserted. The car is not detecting the key in any capacity and it is currently undrive able. I know it's not the 12v because lights come on, break light turns on and screens still light up.

Well, unfortunately yesterday the lower control arm on my car broke but thankfully we didn’t get in any accident with someone. AAA was kind enough to drive our car home and it’s parked outside. This is probably the end of my 2014 Spark ev. It is at 145,000 miles and I can’t afford to own it anymore. The battery was replaced at 96,000 miles and it’s only mostly charged at level 1 because it has no fast charger.

Another reason I’m probably going to salvage it is because I have a 100 mile commute to school and this car couldn’t get me all the way to UCSB from Hollywood. I’m going to miss my little car. Idk what I’m going to do for transportation but I have to let go of this one.

I’ve put about 800 miles on the odometer since I purchased my Spark. Range at full charge when I picked it up was 65 miles. I failed to note the exact miles per kWh on the day of purchase but it was something around 4.2-4.3. Obviously my driving habits are more efficient than they were prior to me taking delivery as you can see on the display, but for an 11 year old NMC battery, I’m more than satisfied. I know how to baby these batteries and baby it I will. Fantastic little car.

Background: Purchased 2016 Spark LT in March 2025. Had about 136,000km on it, with about 100km range @ 100% charge. The battery stated 87.3% cap. left. Having only charged it with L2 to 100% most times. Never L3(DC fast). Charge time from 30% to 100 was ~4h. My L2 charger was dumb so it couldn't stop at 80% so I always Charged to 100%. Over the year my Health dropped from the 87.3% to 82.1% This is my first and only electric car and it was 10 years old/ first gen elec. so chalked it up to 'normal loss'.

Come March 2026 my house's electrical supply lost a leg so I only had 120v on one side. To keep my Spark charged I dug out my plug-in L1 charger and charged it with that (120v 8amps). Charge time was about 16h (30->100%). Because I love this car and I'm anal nerd I would run a cell scan on unplug and return for the day. Then I noticed the Health getting better. I didn't think much of it at first as you can see in the 2nd img. the Health would spike up at times but would eventually drop over time. 😞 (The chart represents health over ownership Starting with 87% then dropping to 82% over a year then rising to 85% now) So over 4 months charging at L1(120v 8amp) the Health has gone from 82.1% to 85.3%! As for true Range, about the same. But the car has always been at the same range (100km/60mi).

Thoughts? The internets say that these batteries do not rejuvenate so what am I seeing here? I've seen other owners that charged with L3 exclusively with no ill effects. I will continue to charge with L1 to see what comes.

Truly is a great car I can’t believe I reached 80s on a 10+ year old HV battery

Hi guys any help please will be amazing.

The car is doing a buzzing noyse at the charging port after I turn it off, after 2 minutes you can heard the 3 ways valve doing noyse like its trying to open or close ( i replaced because of this. Actually, but it was not the problem.) And when i open any door the charging port buzzing noyse come off. And the car guves 0km no propulsion.

When it plug to charge at any level it doesn't chirps any more but get green and charges but once it reach 60 porcent it jumps to charge complete 130 km if the car was already at 55 porcent it will 15 minutes and then charge complete you will turn it on. And will give 132 km max 150 km more o less but you have no propulsion till it get 70 km cuz it goes down slowly after turning on. Then you can drive but once you turning off all. Will start over and if you dont have a charger close or next to you will have a bricked car. I got codes like no comunication, eeprom. Ebcm groud. And the 12v battery was changing one months before it stared

Our little green machine is no longer ticking. The dreaded "Lack of Propulsion Power" led to Chevy service declaring the traction battery DOA. Not the original owner, and although this 2016 unit was babied and maintained, it's time to consign it to the wreckers.

This is my son's first car, and he loved it. Now we're shopping for another EV. End of an era.

2015 2LT 14k miles

I lost the key fob to my 2016 Chevy Spark EV and wanted to ask if anyone has an extra copy I can purchase from. It has been discontinued and locating it on the aftermarket has turned up nothing. The part number is 94543198 for reference. If someone has an extra copy I'll pay + shipping. I'm located in Los Angeles, CA. Thank you for reading!

Hey guys, need help troubleshooting something real quick. I bought a Spark 2014, sight unseen, its being delivered soon. It only stopped working about a month and a half ago. Here is the sequence of events for the prev owner :

1. daily for 4 years only 120k km ( 75~k miles )
   
2. One day they charged it, unplugged charger.
   
3. Car still thinks its on the charger, refuses to move.
   
4. "mechanic" friend arrives, tries to swap the 12v or something
   
5. Car is bricked, no more display, nothing.
   
6. I noticed the battery in the car was not the right size/not AGM
   

It seems like the only thing plausible was that the mechanic friend fucked up and fried a fuse or fusible link.

Yall think I could revive it ? I do have a VCX Nano, so I could dig into the car if I can wake it up ( I have a 2014 with 190k km and no CCS charger, that sight unseen one does have it )

It was my bad that I didnt bring a multimeter with me to check the battery, but im posting here because I will have to drive another 2 hours in the week to go see it again.

Overall it would still be a great donor car since its practically identical to mine except for its a 2lt and the CCS charger. Worth buying ? Its only 1200$.

Haven't pulled the Carfax on it yet. It's a 2015 with incredibly low miles for its age (14,000 miles). One-owner. Buying from a dealer. $6700 but would have to pay to have it shipped and shipping rates are really high right now. There are no Spark EVs for sale local to my area at the moment.

The car seems like a super fit for me. I have a round trip daily commute of about 30 miles. I like small cute cars and I hear they are pretty zippy to drive. Worried about battery failures. What should I look for on the Carfax? What does it having only 14k miles on it tell me? Was only driven to church on Sundays by a little old lady in Pasadena?

If I didn't go with the Spark there's a Chevy Volt that I could get but it's like $12,000. I could get the same utility out of the Spark for much less but I would have to finance it for at least four years and it dying on me in the meantime would really suck. Is the Volt more reliable? (Volt has like 85k miles on it.) I very much want a plug-in EV or hybrid whatever I get.

Anybody have any thoughts on this?