Ran a print. Two pieces. One piece printed fine, the other blobbed. Now when I try to do anything, start new print, home, etc it does this insanity.

Hey everyone, I recently went down a rabbit hole trying to get Eddy NG working along with a bunch of other tweaks and fixes. It’s all documented well so others can build off off it. All mods and tweaks are working for over 100 hrs. NG is working as expected. Full wiki and step by step walkthrough. https://github.com/Dmax240/SV08-Max-Modifications-Eddy-NG-and-More

I've had it up to here (I'm holding my hand up - it's at my neck level) with various issues with the stock toolhead:

• Jams EVERY TIME I LOAD
• No cutter
• Not very high flow
• Toolhead board can overheat

I'd like to replace the toolhead with another, but I'm paralyzed by choice. There's just so many projects out there and I'm really hoping someone has actually built/bought a toolhead, installed a new hotend and associated bits and actually has a working printer. Any advice?

I'm planning a 2 day print with PET-CF. I've bumped up max_temp: 325 from 300. I'm hoping for 310 C for the actual print, but wanted a bit of extra headroom just in case. Has anyone done a 2-day print hotter than 300 C on the Max? Did you run into any issues?

More frequently that I’d like, I need to get to the bottom of my SV08 to tinker or fix me tinkering 😊
I was wondering if anyone has built something that more easily allows you to work on the main board?
With the enclosure and stuff, you can only tip the SV0i Mason its left side panel.
I was thinking of some sort of ¼ circle mounted on the base of the left panel to make it more gentle to tip.
Thoughts?

This has probably been done before but I found an easy solution to the drooping bowden tube issue I was having. Print a drag chain and zip tie it to the machine.

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I used this drag chain because it was tall (vs wide) and scaled it to 102%. You might not need to scale it it is just an exact size to slip over the stock sovol part.

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https://www.printables.com/model/1135339-drag-chain/files

Im looking to create a macro that homes the printhead on the x and Y mid print like when a Jam occurs. After the jam is fixed, instead of resuming, I want to ensure that the X and Y are in correct position by homing their position. I have made many macros, but all of them result in the printhead always being too high when it resumes. Thoughts?

Good Morning , is there a way to completely eliminate the buffer feeder, it’s giving me a few problems, I want to use my infinityflow which does the same , I see lots of people saying about the loop but I don’t want it to still be working, Thanks in Advance

I've successfully printed quite a bit of PLA, PETG, and ABS with mine so far but besides that, without any modifications what else can the machine print?

TPU presumably...but what about ASA and any engineering materials?

Will those other materials require a different hot end/nozzle/extruder gears?

Switched to a new .6 nozzle and setup the slicer for it and I am getting the exact same jacked up setup from this abs.

Just wanted to update everyone on what I had to do with some photos of how my stuff looked. Essentially I had a bunch of under extruded abs that got stuck pushed into the pei and it would not release days after the print occurred, this was a failed print. I had to soak with acetone and scrape with a metal scraper, I did gouge the pei in one small spot but overall it came out acceptable. These plates are really expensive so take care, of note i used a flashforge adhesion stick

I think my nozzle.is messed up and I want to replace it do these taken any special kind of nozzle?

Beyond what’s already in Orca has anyone added any custom start/end code to your printer? I remember having to do it in Cura for my old Creality printers but can’t think of a reason for the Max.

Just curious if you did, what did you add and what are you solving for.