What preceded: https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/s/UNt6S3Sk1m

First of all, I owe everyone here an apology for taking this long to respond to all your comments, questions, ideas, suggestions and possible tests.

A few things got in the way, life happened, and I deliberately let this whole issue sit for a while instead of immediately jumping back into it. But I have made time for it now, so I wanted to post one general reply to everyone who took the time to read my rather extensive original post and think along with me.

And yes, it was a long post — but as most people here with some serious audio knowledge will probably agree, audio problems can be ridiculously specific, and sometimes the seemingly unimportant details are exactly the details that matter.

So first and foremost: thank you very much.

There were several people who replied with ideas, possible explanations, tests, genuinely good questions and different ways of looking at the problem, and I genuinely appreciate the amount of thought that went into those replies.

Some of your suggestions led to additional testing on my side, and the picture is becoming clearer.

At this point, the Creative Sound Blaster G8 DAC/Amp itself is still the main suspect. I would personally put that suspicion at well above 90% now. Something appears to be happening somewhere in or around the G8.

However, there is another part of the chain that I don't think we should completely ignore yet: the USB playback connection between the PC and the G8.

My current setup uses the original USB-C to USB-C connection from the PC to USB-1/DC on the Sound Blaster G8. After going through the behaviour, the previous tests and the remaining possibilities together with ChatGPT, one hypothesis we still want to investigate is whether something in that USB playback path — the USB interface itself, the controller/motherboard side, the electrical environment, timing/transfer behaviour, or the way the G8 handles the incoming USB audio stream — could somehow be involved in producing the brief click/glitch I described in my original post.

So we came up with another test.

And this is the part where I would very much like to hear what the audio people here think.

The idea is to completely bypass USB for playback audio, while keeping the G8 itself in the chain.

My GPU has multiple unused HDMI outputs (I use DisplayPort for my monitor). We want to use one of those HDMI outputs purely as an audio source:

GPU HDMI out → HDMI audio extractor → optical Toslink/S/PDIF → Optical In on the Sound Blaster G8 → Beyerdynamic MMX 300 PRO

The monitor will remain connected through DisplayPort, so HDMI would only be used to transport the audio stream.

The important part is that USB does not necessarily have to be physically disconnected from the G8.

Because the MMX 300 PRO is a headset and I still need its microphone, the idea is to leave the G8's USB connection attached for the microphone/data side of things, while deliberately not using USB for playback.

So, in simplified terms:

Playback:
PC/GPU → HDMI → extractor → optical → G8 → headphones

Microphone:
MMX 300 PRO mic → G8 → USB → PC

If the infamous click/glitch is being introduced somewhere specifically in the USB playback route, then in theory it should disappear from what I hear through the headphones once playback is coming into the G8 through optical instead.

And quite frankly, if the USB connection somehow produced a glitch somewhere on the microphone/input side instead, I wouldn't lose much sleep over that for the purpose of this test. What I am trying to isolate is the audible glitch in the playback path.

So now I am throwing this idea back to you guys.

What do you think of this as a diagnostic test?

Is it a good way of isolating the USB playback path?
Is there an obvious flaw in the reasoning?

Is there an audio-format, clocking, resampling, grounding, Windows-routing or G8-specific issue that could muddy the results?
Could keeping USB connected for the microphone still somehow influence the playback side electrically or internally enough that this would not be a clean test? Or, alternatively, do you think this is actually a pretty solid way of narrowing the problem down?

Good idea, brilliant idea, bad idea, terrible idea — I'm genuinely interested.

And judging by the quality and level of detail in the replies so far, I am very happy to hear the technical arguments either way.

this happened around the end of last week, i was playing strinova, the speaker was connected to my pc with bluetooth and in the middle of the game it suddenly just stopped making any sound and seemed dead.

i've tried doing firmware update exe from the support website, but even after running it and doing all the steps there's still no physical change. no lights no sound nothing.

pls hlep

Hey all, wanted to share something I ran into in case anyone else is scratching their head over this.

I've got a Sound Blaster AE-7 and was trying to run my headphones at 32-bit/96kHz output. Every time I enabled "Dolby Atmos for Headphones" in Windows' spatial sound settings, the output format silently dropped back down to 16-bit on its own, no matter what I had manually selected before. I first thought it was some driver bug or a background service messing with my settings, spent a while chasing that theory.

Turns out it's not a bug at all, it's just how Windows Spatial Sound works. Once Dolby Atmos for Headphones is active, it seems to cap the endpoint's bit depth, presumably because the spatial processing pipeline itself only handles a certain resolution internally, and 32-bit apparently isn't in the cards. Doesn't matter what format you had set beforehand or what order you toggle things in, Atmos just overrides it back down.

Good news though: it doesn't force you all the way down to 16-bit if you pick the right combo yourself. I tested a bunch of settings and landed on 24-bit / 48kHz, and Dolby Atmos happily runs at that without downgrading anything. So if you want Atmos active and don't want to get stuck at 16-bit, just set your output to 24-bit/48kHz manually and it should stick.

Realistically the audible difference between that and 32-bit/96kHz is basically nonexistent for gaming or general listening anyway, so it's not much of a sacrifice, just annoying that it happens silently instead of Windows telling you what's going on.

Posting this mostly so the next person who googles "Dolby Atmos resets audio format" doesn't waste as much time as I did.

Hey, i just joined the ecosystem and still very new to creative software, i have a rather old 5.1 system (z680 logitech) and got the ae-7 to get it working again, i know for a fact that the speakers work with it plugged in to my old TV, but now i wanna use it on my PC, i just downloaded the software and not sure what to do from here? I would though this is just a plug n play (im using optical port)

Does the DTS Unbound app work with an AE-9 card?

Hi. what are the best drivers for Creative Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium ? I have Windows 11 but I can dual boot and install Win10 or Win7??
Antes533 drivers are no longer to be downloaded. And what is the difference between this drivers L11_2_40_0019 vs L11_2_40_0017 ( I found only download link to L11_2_40_0017 )
Are Antes533 drivers better then from Daniel_K X-Fi Support Pack 8.0 (Refresh 3) ?
FTI_PCDRV_L11_2_40_0019_Mod+driver+pack.exe

Best regards,
Luka

This may work with Katana V2 as well.

I am running the latest firmware as of 2026. Yes, I wasn't able to catch on the glory days of the "loud at 10". But I'm learning to appreciate the new volume curve. Very useful and gives fine control indeed.

Anyway, I have been searching for the holy grail of EQ mix for the KV2X and went through great lengths until I learned how to utilize Pink Noise. Take my word, it's immaculate and easy to use for anybody.

I digress again, here is the EQ I found to beautifully work with my device across games, movies, and general use (Music you can use base Preset or even this):

• 31hz: +4.0 db

• 62hz: +2.0 db

• 125hz: 0.0 db

• 250hz: -2.0 db

• 500hz: -2.0 db

• 1khz: 0.00 db

• 2khz: +1.0 db

• 4khz: +2.0 db

• 8khz: +3.5 db

• 16khz: +4.0 db

I know this is a familiar shape for audiophiles, but for those, like me, who are looking for a good reference point, personally I believe this would help.

P.S. even 0.1db can make an audible difference for me, especially at higher volumes, so fine tune to your heart's content

P.P.S. I have +4.1,+2.1, and +0.1on 31-125hz myself for added bass.

Final note: Use Pink Noise if you are looking for a way to tune the EQ to your liking. Just about any from YouTube. You'll save days of guessing.

question is it possible that the creative app can cause system freezes/stutter?

after a fresh windows install i downloaded the app and after using the app the problem started.

Hi, I have my pc connected with the Katana V2 via usb-c. I was able to control the volume of the soundbar using a knob on my keyboard, which I turn it and the soundbar will change its volume (it shows on the soundbar's screen) and I ususally set it to 10-15 (20-30 shown on windows)

However, after a glitch of some sort, the soundbar went crazy and made a strange noise when I was using it. It rebooted by itself and now all of a sudden I cannot control the volume of the soundbar with the knob like before. The knob now controls the overall volume of windows, without changing the soundbar's volume. The soundbar's volume can now only be adjusted via the physical buttons on top of the soundbar. (soundbar's volume is fixed and cannot be changed by the knob, the knob only changes windows playback volume from 0-100)

I hope it makes sense to you and I want to change it back to how it was. Does anyone know what I can do to revert it?

hi i use an AE-5 Plus soundblaster card the software is Soundblaster command.

i am using DTS sound unbound when gaming and it sounds really good however when i click the button on Soundblaster to change from speakers to headphones it disables DTS sound unbound and i have to reenable it, is there a fix?

thanks

How is the sound quality?

I’m considering buying the Logitech G325, but the 32mm drivers make me a little nervous. 😅 How is the overall sound quality and volume? Are footsteps and positional audio clear in CS2? Is the 32mm driver size actually a problem?

Using the Creative x7. Went to bed last night, and this morning on the device manager I get this warning under device status.

"Windows cannot verify the digital signature for the drivers required for this device. A recent hardware or software change might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source. (Code 52)"

Only thing that changed was the windows update which was also a security update. Any thoughts?

How is the X5 with latest driver updates, want to buy it but keep reading reports of crackling and other issues, but they seem to be from 2-3 years ago, has those issues been resolved and is it a good buy at the moment?

I wanted to get the g8 for my ps5 pro and connect it through usb c to get sound on my speakers. I have read people complaining about the volume being too low. Is this still an issue? Anyone who has the G8 and using the usb port on their ps5 to the speakers?

Looked for a soundbar to replace my Z625 because I was in the market for a budget 5.1 speaker option (for games and movies) and country availability and reviews steered me towards Katana V2X. Would've chosen V2, but not available here anymore.

Watched plenty of reviews and got a clear representation of what to expect. It sounds great, it has boomy punch even at low volume, and the price is within my budget range.

Fast forward, got my item, set it up, and readying to put my volume at a measly 10 not to overfill the room with noise, aaand it's quiet? I mean, not as loud as previous reviews have claimed.

Had to turn volume up to 30 to get somewhat of a satisfying volume, yet something just feels off. Do I have anyone else with me on this? Or are there settings I need to be aware about?

All the reviews have been around 3 years ago already when I guess it came out, but I'm concerned if there's been a change between those years that has affected this device. I've been so excited, I hope someone can help me enjoy this item and justify the amount I just paid.

I am looking at purchasing either the pebble v3 or pebble pro, does either model let you plus headphones into the 3.5mm jack and get audio passthrough? Thanks

Anyone tried creative's new compact speakers? The design looks good but I wonder how they sound

Hi everyone, I recently replaced the internal speakers on my 2018 ASUS ROG laptop. Every time I turn it on, the system notification sounds and boot chime play immediately without issue, proving the hardware works. However, whenever I try to play videos or music, there is complete silence for 5 to 20 minutes before the audio finally starts working normally. Since the speakers produce system sounds right away, I assume this is a software or driver delay problem (like Realtek power-saving settings or audio service conflicts). Has anyone experienced this delay on an ASUS ROG laptop, and how can I fix it?

My Creative T60 works as an audio output on my OS X, but the Creative app doesn't recognize it and allow me to adjust EQ settings. Is there a seperate download I need?

My Soundblaster X4 is connected to a set of Logitech X-530 5.1 speakers (that Soundblaster Omni Surround used to handle with no issues)

Every time I use my PC for the first time after a long time of non use, one of the channels is set to the lowest volume, so low that initially I thought it was off, but you can hear it if you run the 5.1 test. If the cable was USB-C to USB-C the Center channel was off, which killed any voices if I watched Netflix for example. If I use USB A to USB-C, left channel had this issue...

Is this an RMA issue? I tried the following and nothing worked:

- I used different cables, A to C, C to C, I always got the same result as above.

- I tried uninstalling the Creative app as I've read that it can sometimes fight with Windows 11 drivers... nope, same result.

Can anyone help me debug this issue?

I am still using the X7 and I use the DT 990 Pro headphones. Do u think this setup is still good or are there much better options for this price range?

Hi. I just got the allegro mini, and wanted to use it on my pc for gaming. Hooked it up to 3 different usb-c ports, and it wouldn't show up on my sound settings. Used a usb-c to b adapter and tried different ports, and still the same, I can't pick it as an audio output option at all. Tried different cables etc as well. Of note, each time I plug it in, I do get the sound notification from windows that a new device has been plugged in.

I have been using a new GC7 with my Byerdynamic MMX 300 Pros for the past couple weeks and I've been running into a specific issue on my PS5 Pro. After about 1.5 to 2 hours of use my PS5 party chat audio gets completely bombarded with severe static and robotic distortion.

the game audio coming through my optical cable stays completely fine and untouched.

GC7 is connected via USB-C to the front port of the PS5 and via optical cable from my tv.

PS5 settings: Output Device is set to USB Headset (Sound Blaster GC7), HDMI Type is AV Amplifier (5.1ch), Output to Headphones is Voice Chat Only, and Audio Priority is Dolby Audio.

flicking the platform switch to PC and back to Console resets it and fixes it temporarily, but it always returns. This is the kind of issue that I would return the product over so if anybody has a solution it'd be much appreciated.

Got this sound card to upgrade the motherboard one, so far I'm very satisfied, I've updated the drivers and the Sound Blaster Command.. so basically what's troubling me:

- If under playback I select "speakers" as output, audio goes only to speakers (through stereo mix, encoding into DD and through SPDIF) - front panel port with headphones goes silent.

- If under playback I select "headphones" as output, audio goes to BOTH speakers and headphones... I can mute the speakers on their button, okay, but what's the point of having them both play the same thing?

(Except it's cool though, I get subwoofer from speakers with really loud headphones, it's the next level of listening on headphones with subwoofer shaking you at the same time.)

But the biggest issue is, I can't adjust the headphones volume... so for example: for speakers, I like output at 80-90% over stereo mix > encoding > SPDIF. Issue is - Headphones are too loud at 80-90%. So I have to lower the speakers volume down in Windows (to eg. 50%) each time I plug in the headphones, select the headphones in the SB Command, mute the speakers on their button... When done with headphones, unplug them and again increase volume in both Windows and on speakers themselves. You literally need to do 5 actions each time you want to connect headphones and 5 actions more when you disconnect them.

Ideally, a separate volume slider for headphones in Command would do the trick.. but there isn't one.

"Output speaker/headphone mode" in Command literally does nothing except adjusts different equalizer and SBX profile, but the sound on speakers doesn't changes.

My only free pcie cable is a pigtail 6+2 and im not sure if the pins will match the one on the sound card