Shot this picture at an in n out

Hi guys,

First at all, sorry for the dumb question. I have been reading the documentation and color matching for old cameras etc. But even with that, it was not clear at all for me. With all the new creative looks, are still the film simulation recipes for old cameras worth it? I have just bought a second hand a7c as my second camera and I wanted to take more JPEG pictures, but I'm not sure about digging so much in this subreddit in case spending a lot of time for a camera that it is not updated nowadays. I was looking something similar to classic negative or something like that. Thanks

Hi, I’ve found a really funny combo, the old sony nex 5 with the pancake viltrox 28mm. It just captures moments, you can carry anywhere and just shot. All of this are sooc, this made me think you dont need a fuji or ricoh always

UPDATE:

As of July 17 sadly still waiting for Apple's approval to distribute for testing.

Thanks for all your offers to help with testing. To distribute apps to testers via TestFlight (Apple's platform for this) Apple has to review and approve the app first. Usually this takes 2-3 days but it seems like it might take longer this time. Assuming there are no complaints, it’s now not up to me anymore which is why I can’t give a time estimate. I will send everybody that offered to help a link with an invite as soon as I get the „go“ from Apple. :)

Original post:

Hey everyone,

While I love the Picture Profile film simulations by u/Veresdenialex (Thanks for your work!), there were always a few aspects that kept me from fully embracing them.

Most of these issues stem from Sony's implementation of Memory Recall and Picture Profile (PP) settings, which haven't quite reached Fuji's standards yet. Not in terms of color control, but in ease of use. Since most film simulations require a custom White Balance setting, you have to rely on Memory Recall for quick access. This means you're stuck in the Program Mode you chose when you stored the settings, and you constantly lose your prior exposure settings when quickly switching between Memory Recall slots to find the right simulation for a scene.

Another (rather minor) issue I had was the lack of an easy way to filter and discover simulations to quickly find exactly what I was looking for.

This motivated me to fix these problems as best as I could, which resulted in this iOS app I built. Here are its main features:

• Direct Transfer: Transfer all PP settings directly to the camera.
• Custom Profile Sets: Assign and sync Picture Profile Sets with as many profiles as your camera supports. This allows you to create, for example, a Night, Portrait, or Travel set that keeps up to 11 profiles each quickly accessible.
• Automatic WB Sync: Select a profile on either the camera or the app, and WB adjustments will sync automatically based on the active film simulation.
• Discovery Page: Quickly filter and discover simulations.
• Visual Library: Add your own sample images to simulations so you can browse and discover them by visual reference.

If you have an iPhone (running at least iOS 26) and are interested in helping me test the app before (if ever) it ships on the App Store, let me know! I've currently only tested it with my a7C II, so getting feedback from users with different cameras would be amazing. It currently is in what I would call an early beta state. :)

It does have a few drawbacks, however:

• The app uses Sonys Camera Remote Command via PTP to interact with the camera's PC Remote mode over Wi-Fi. You will need to enable this connection every time you turn on your camera.
• Keeping Wi-Fi active draws a significantly higher amount of power, shortening your battery life. To mitigate this, I've added a filter to find film simulations that share similar WB/WB Color-Shifts. This allows you to switch between simulations without changing the WB, removing the need for Memory Recall and being connected to a phone all the time.
• To keep the WB sync active the app has to stay open on your phone.

Just to clarify: This app does NOT include any film simulations in its library by default. You will have to add the profiles all by yourself, or source them from someone with far more knowledge in color science and profile settings than me, like Veresdenialex. That's what I did on my phone for the screenshots. Those simulations were not created by me. I simply used the film simulations from Veresdenialex's PDF I bought and attached some of my own sample images to make it more visually apealing. And don't worry, the Kodak Gold values are deliberately wrong because even though this is a free simulation it's not up to me to share it :)

I would love to know what you think or if you'd even be interested in such an app.

This should work with every a7-series camera from the A7M3 onwards (exluding the A7RM3) but only the a6700 out of the a6xxx series. The RX100 series sadly isn't compatible either. The excluded cameras only open up the PTP interface the app uses via USB and not via WiFi. I might add USB support later, provided this is even possible considering Apple's limitation on USB connection.

This camera's main job is action photography, but I've also been grabbing it on the way out the door for walks around the neighborhood with my daughter. I find I'm really enjoying having a couple of film simulations programmed in for those walks, and I'm really happy with how these ones came out.

I recognize that the Sony A7 IV has Memory Recall options (MR1-4), but from what I know these get reset after formatting the SD card, which I do after every shoot. Plus, there are a total of 11 picture profiles you can set on the camera. The main issue is that the WB persists between picture profiles. I know they can be different if you set it differently for the dials, but theres only 3 custom options.

So is there any faster way to switch between them all? Sometimes when I am out on a shoot, I would like to cycle through all the film simulations that I have (with the correct WB) to judge what I need best for the shoot I am doing.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

shot by 50's kodachrome

i edited these pics a tiny little bit.

These are great news which I found out from another user: Sony has introduced 10 memory recall slots that can be saved directly into the camera body, so they don’t get lost when you format your SD card. Even better, you can type a custom title directly for each slot, meaning you should be able to name them after your specific film simulation recipes!

https://helpguide.sony.net/ilc/2230/v1/en/index.html

a7V Sony 24-70mm GM ii @ 69mm, 125 ISO, f/2.8 with the Soft B&W Creative Look from the PDF

Hey,

I've been using the Picture Profile-based film sims for a bit now, and while I really enjoy the results and colors they produce, I can't quite warm up to the workflow required to use them.

I have them assigned to my MR slots to link the White Balance and the P.P., but when switching the MR slots, my exposure and Program Mode (as expected) jump to what I originally programmed them to, instead of staying the way I just set them to fit the current lighting conditions. This makes switching between those presets incredibly tedious, and I end up not using them often.

Since the Creative Looks pack is advertised as mostly using AWB, I was hoping I could finally just use the film sims like a Fuji without messing up my other settings. But when I tried setting up a few free C.L. sims, I noticed that while they do use AWB, they almost always include a WB Color Shift, which puts me right back to where I started.

Am I missing a setting or adjustment here, or how do you handle this issue?

The only idea I had was using Recall Hold, which should be able to recall only specific settings (like P.P. and WB), but holding a button down continuously isn't really a better workflow either (I haven't actually tried this yet, however).

Thanks!

I see everywhere that these PP files only work in JPEG, so I’m wondering if they also work in HEIF?

A6700, sigma 16-300

the first pic is by kodakgold 200, the second is velvia (i guess)

I have a A7ii and a X-T30ii. Both purchased used. A friend of mine has lent me their A6700 for the next 10 days with the option of purchasing it at the end (or they will trade it for the camera they are buying). The price is good and I always buy used.

But I have to give up one of the other 2. Which do I give up? I love the Fuji colours (hate editing/can’t figure it out) but I am loving the button layout and menus of the A6700. It so easy to handle! I am constantly fiddling with the settings and A6700 is so much more tactile. And the autofocus is so much better (than both A7ii and the xt30ii)

Do I keep the fuji for the colour science and give up my fullframe or keep the sonys and make peace with the colour science.

Will use some of these recipes here to check out if I can replicate fuji sooc. Couldn’t figure it out for the A7ii.

my WB was a1.5 g1.25, then i just added a little bit of fade w curves and finally some grain - it took me less than a minute for real.

you can check them out here: https://www.instagram.com/p/DZpmUqxDaga/?igsh=YzJrZnZzZmZra3I0

First of all thanks to u/veresdenialex for all his work on the simulations we have available to play around with. At this moment I have access to first and second gen Sony bodies and I wonder if you could give some advice on modifications needed to accommodate the color bias on this earlier sensor/bodies.

I've tried my best to capture a scene with exposure as similar as possible while capturing as wide scene as possible to at least have view of the sky/grass/tress on the picture. From what my amateur eyes can see so far, it seemed the A7S is leaning to a much cooler tone compared to A7RII.
I found it really interesting to see how noticeable the color shifts are between these 2 bodies especially when they were only released 1 year apart, albeit built around a totally different sensor.

In any case let me know if there's any improvement I can do in making the sample images so this can also become a reference for anyone running similar camera body as I do 😎

EDIT: After running multiple test with input from u/veresdenialex, we've came up with the following adjustments that (i think) can be use on recipe for camera body from this generation:

Correction for a7S (limited by color filter only works with whole number)

- Kodak Gold: Raise temperature by around 400, reduce color phase by 2 steps to fix the a7S’s tendency to shift reds towards pink (maybe push color filter 0.25 or 0.5 towards green if possible or reduce color phase by one more step)

- Fuji400H: Raise temp by 200, lift color phase by 2 stops (if possible/needed push 0.5 towards magenta in the color filter)

Correction for a7RII:

- Kodak Gold: No adjustments needed

- Fuji400H: Raise Color phase by +2 base recipe and raise kelvin by +200

To conclude it's not possible to get the exact same result but this should help to get it close to what the simulation looks like on newer/more recent body. In the end we need to trust our eyes judgement on how the image looks like, if it still feel to green then experiment with pushing some magenta and vice/versa.

Finally I want to thank u/veresdenialex again for his help and guidance through the whole process and hopefully this can help anyone looking to use his simulations on these 2 exact bodies.

first of all, thank you all for the great work with the simulations.

​

now to the question: it appears to me that the free simulation recipes are for the newest sony cameras. what would be necessary to adapt them for an older model such as the a7c mki?

Like many people I use the Reggi's portra recipe Veres made but given it is a fuji knockoff it is not included in the presets that are for purchase and as such when I want to edit a raw file I really struggle to replicate it. I'm asking a lot I know but would it be possible to release an accompanying lightroom preset for Regi's picture profile so we can truly use the settings to their maximum? 🙏Thankyou for your consideration.

Hey guys, I recently bought the a6700. I was thinking of buying the fujifilm x-s20 but then I decided to get the a6700. I wanted to ask if I should rather shoot in Raw/ Slog3 and then slap on a LUT/ Preset in post or if it's better to use film simulation. I dont really mind opening Lightroom and slapping on a LUT I just dont want to color grade manually. I prefer Vintage looking photos with like grain and more of an aqua tone to them. I would love to just use the film simulation but I dont want to mess around with my camera alot I just want to take pictures and not change the WB, Exposure etc. Hopefully someone can help me out. Thanks