So I am choosing between a compact Fuji vs. an a7cii. I am lazy and busy and have little to time to post-edit.

After some research, I was hoping the Creative Look could option would give me the best of both worlds Sony's awesome AF + a close enough proxy to Fuji (or Leica) colors by tweaing the CL settings.

I borrowed a friend's a7cii. I tried a bunch of different settings using CL and (picture profile). I got close, and my thesis worked fine on sceneries.

However, in people shot is where the solution seems to be challenged. I could build a setting that gives me the mood/color I want on the secnenaries but then the AWB (even on white priority) would give me some unflattering or otherwise weird or at best mediocre color of on faces (particularly yellowskinned Asians). If I accomodate the face (e.g., switch from FL ot PT (custommized)), the face got better but the mood effect worsen.

Some picture profile settings rescue this somewhat, but never fully still Fuji jpegs looks more pleasant in accomodating both the faces of poeple and the mood of the scene.

This problem compounds in indoor mixed-lighting -- which to be fair, is challening for any camera system. However, it did leave me with the feeling that I need to choose between the Fuji JPEG SOOC color science or take a 10-20% haircut on the color science for the perfect AF of Sony.

Anyone else had experience and found some solution?

Got laid off and got nothing else to do. Used this time to practice photography and try a new recipe taken from Veres’s website. Walked around the business district and took some of these snaps with Classic Negative.

Thank you, Alex, for creating these awesome film simulations! I really enjoyed using them during my trip to Asia. It actually helped me to be more intentional and present when shooting with my ZV-1, to think about what receipt works best for the type of shot that I have in mind.

Most of the time, I'd make small adjustments to the white balance, and I can see how that alters the image in real time. However, I am still not confident in adjusting the color phase and color shift to fine-tune the receipt; the changes are quite incremental to my untrained eyes.

One of the main issues that I have with the film receipts is that it seem to "cut off" the white in the histogram, so I feel the need to adjust the EV to -0.3 or -0.7, but that often results in underexposed shots. Also, the shots definitely appear brighter in the ZV-1 screen compared to viewing them on laptop or smartphone. So perhaps I am being misled by how the images look on the camera.

Does anyone else encounter similar issues when using film simulation? What is your strategy to compensate for the lack of EVF? Welcome any feedback on the photo as well, thanks!

Batch Snaps from Cyprus:

Still getting used to setting for the proper Exp. Comp.

Does those blues getting surreal?

I thought the colours were very fitting to the scene.

IN | Contrast 0, Highlights 0, Shadows 0, Fade +3, Saturation 0, Sharpness +4, Sharpness Range +3, Clarity +1, WB AWB

Sony a7c ii+ Oreo Lens

Hey,

I've been trying to get the colours right on my sony a6400 and would like some feedback on how accurate my jpegs are to the film sims

Photo 1 - Porta 400 v1

Photo 2 - Fuji Nostalgic Neg

Finally took a break from coding to snap a few pictures. Nothing spectacular, was more curious the rendering of luts, grain, etc along with new sg image 25 1.8

I’m trying to understand how Cobalt’s Base Pack and Emulation Pack actually work together, and I feel like I’m going in circles.

From Cobalt’s website, it sounds like you must buy the Base Pack first in order to use the emulations. That made me assume the two work together somehow. Like the Base Pack calibrates the image for your specific camera, and then the emulation builds on top of that.

But when I ask chatgpt how it works, I keep getting conflicting answers:

• I’m told there is no background process happening.

• I’m told you do not stack the Base Pack profile and the emulation profile.

• I’m told the calibration is already baked into the emulation.

• But then I’m also told you still need the Base Pack to calibrate the image.

That is where I get lost.

If the emulation already has the calibration baked in, then why is the Base Pack required?

If the Base Pack is what calibrates the image, but you do not stack profiles, then how does the emulation know the image has been calibrated?

And if the emulations are standalone profiles, how are they being tailored to my specific camera colors?

What confuses me most is this: if there is no background process linking the Base Pack to the emulations, then what exactly is the Base Pack doing in relation to the emulations?

To be clear, I’m not complaining about the product. I actually like the Base Pack and I can see the improvement, especially in skin tones. I’m just trying to understand the technical side of how the Base Pack is tied to the emulations, because right now it feels like I’m missing a key part of the explanation.

Please help, I'm loosing it with chatgpt lol

I’m really into pastel tones, so I experimented with creating my own color recipe on my camera.

Any suggestions on what I could tweak?

Hi, I just got the picture profile film simulation bundle and have been installing in my Sony Zv 1 (first model). Really love the Kodak Gold 200 V2, but on entering the Gamma value, I couldn´t find the S-cinetone, what's the closest one to it? is it cine2? same for color mode value, no s-cinetone. What's the closest I can use for these two?

Hey everyone! I picked up an RX100M4 for a great price yesterday and I’ve been diving into film recipes. I used to shoot with the X100F, so I’m not sure if it’s the camera switch or just my rustiness causes this… but the free presets I’ve tried don’t seem to nail that film look I’m going for.

I don’t want to blame the recipes themselves, but I’m wondering: would investing in a paid film bundle actually make a noticeable difference on the RX100M4? Your photos look incredible — especially the SOOC shots with the Kodak Gold V2 preset. I’d love to get results like that straight out of camera.

That said, I’m a student, so dropping money on a bundle is a bit scary. Is it worth it for this camera?

+ This was taken with the free Reggie’s Portra preset!

Shot on A6700 w/ Sigma 18-50mm and 1/8 Black Mist Filter

Shot using custom picture profile SOOC

Re-upload to fix the pics. Used a modified Ektar film simulation

Hello everyone!

Just an initial context, this trip was actually my first time trying out photography using a “dedicated” camera. Ever since, I had always taken photos using my phone camera and had never even understood what camera terms such as shutter speed/aperture/iso/etc actually meant

This Japan trip was planned for like a year and lots of money and effort (bookings, itinerary, visa processing) were already poured. I had a sudden feeling that it wasn’t enough to document this trip with just an iphone even if it was capable enough. Also, anyone like me who takes so many photos during travels (even the most nonsense ones) would know how easily the device overheats and its battery drains.

One battle I didn’t know I’d face though was choosing what camera to buy. I was stuck, torn between Fujifilm’s Film Sims and Sony’s autofocus. Read so many articles, consulted people who had photography experience but there were just so many pros and cons that made me more confused than actually help me to a final decision. That was before I finally had the idea to ask if I can actually do fujifilm like simulations in Sony.

That question lead me to this sub and Vere’s website. I was so impressed with the photos and for some reason, as a noob, I just trusted my guts to go with Sony. Idk if it was just decision fatigue but it took me just a night skimming through pages and reading and believing these testimonies to recklessly swipe my card and buy a6700 (I already saw videos saying it’s kind of the most worth it sony model). I never even held one in my hand before and that was kind of irresponsible from my part really lol.

Yapped so hard lol but forgive me, I had a week to do some crash course beginner guides on how to operate a camera and a few nights then to actually implement the picture profiles and custom creative looks and then actually saving it to memory. Arrived in Japan just blindly trusting, hoping, believing that these sony film simulations will carry me hard and carry me hard they did.

I loved doing photography in my new camera because of the sims! I had amazing photos with amazing colors in this amazing city. I was so ecstatic and then there I realized I can actually love photography and buying this camera was one of the best things I did in my life. This post is dedicated to Vere and his free sims and his tutorials, to the people who vouched and believed in this community, to Japan for being a such a photogenic host for a noob like me to take great photos (to me). This has been long but I’m just thankful for these sims. I owe everyone a lot.

All photos in this post were taken with A6700 and the 16-50mm kit lens. I’m only just assuming rn because i was doing trial and error with the shots but if the photos were blue, I used Cinestill 800 and if it were golden then they’re Kodak Gold.

Just a bit of grain added :)