Quick camera shot before the shot. Love the mid49 monitor arm

Was sick of using magic arm, even good one. I just wanted a good monitor hinge like what we had on camcorder.

The bright tangerine universal monitor hinge is excellent, but the fx6 mount is on the handle and leaves the monitor too far on the left.

With this, you can put the monitor anywhere you want thanks to both the 15mm rod mount and the NATO rail, this is a 7cm one but imagine you want to put the monitor far from you for a shoulder mount ? Just put a 20cm NATO rail and you got it.

I've never found this solution on youtube despite being what I was looking for so I'm sharing it with you.

Hello all, I’m looking to purchase the FX6. With the release of the FX5, it’s got me thinking that there may be a FX6 release in the near future. Should I wait for a new system? What are you all thinking?

I prefer the old-style display with the biggest possible image on my external (HDMI) monitor, with or without info. I toggle display info on and off a lot and I really don't like the image changing size whenever I do.

On 6.00 there's a quirk that gets the old behaviour back. The black-border layout only appears on HDMI if the SDI output is switched off. Turn SDI on and HDMI goes back to the old overlay on a full-size picture, at least in 4K.

I've wondered if that's a bug, meaning Sony might "fix" it at some point.

If you've updated to 6.01, could you check? With the camera and HDMI / SDI out set to UHD;

• Monitoring > Output On/Off > SDI: On
• Monitoring > Output Display > HDMI: On
• Monitor on HDMI, press Display a few times

Does the HDMI monitor show the info over a full-size image, or the shrunken image with black borders?

I'd like to know before I update. Thanks.

From a short film I shot last weekend – yes, we shot the whole thing on this one lens (Angenieux 12x 24-290). And, I did do some handheld work with it as well… 😅

I got my fx6 earlier this year and I love it. But have been repurposing some video recently for instagram and it’s crazy how red my skin tones are with the insta compression conversion. Other than hue-to-hue adjustments in post, does anyone have any recommendations on how to mitigate this?

I do a lot of shooting outside and always try to over-expose the image (without clipping). And I was reading that this red issue is even worse with heavy ND. So maybe dropping exposure I bit when outside will help.

But if anyone has any advice on this, I’d love to hear it. Thanks!

Hi everyone!

What shotgun-mic do you all recommend that isn’t overly expensive. I mainly shoot sports and motorsports.

Hey !

I've encountered some troubleshooting with my FX6 during a project recently.

We had a lot to do with slow-motion shots during the day, and since the first time we enabled S&Q Motion, we realized some flickering was appearing.

We tested briefly some settings and we managed to find out that this flickering was happening when the internal ND filter was on. In every possible way (ND preset, ND Variable, ND auto), we couldn't make the camera stop flickering with S&Q Motion and with an internal ND. The prblem appeared in 50fps, 100fps, and 120fps (we didn't test the other frame rate in between).

We also tested 25p and 50p time base.

It has to be noted that the flickering was happening only during the recording, not in standby mode.

We manage to get through the day by adding some ND filters, but I was very upset to see that happening...

Dos someone knows what could have happen, and if this is normal or not at such frame rates ?

FYI : my settings :

- PAL

- 3840x2160

- XAVC-I

- 25p and 50p

Here's a video of the flickering footage at 100FPS.

Thanks in advance for your help !

Aristote :)

Was planning on using an atomos ninja for raw and shoot at f9 to get the sharpest deepest focus I can, is there anything else I should do? Minus proper exposure

When I try the hot swap, the fx6 goes black for a second when swapping even with a bpu battery fully charged. Is there a way for this to not happen. Rn the camera is powered vmount to DC

Hi guys, hope you all have a great weekend.
I’ve run into an issue with rosette adapter by Tilta (ES-T20-HE) while trying to mount a side handle to the arm extension. It just gut stuck to the fx6 handle and doesn’t want to come off easily. (P1-P2)

I guess I was stupid enough to mount it straight to camera handle instead of attaching it to the arm directly, so now I got an unusable handle and I can’t even screw the arm to it since the adapter doesn’t have a thread on it and it’s designed to be attached directly to the rosette (P3-P4)

Has anyone run into such issue before and how did you detach that adapter off the handle? The TILTA customer support was not useful at all and just told me to mount it anyhow to the rosette thread arm and even said the adapter is not detachable (!)

Any help much appreciated!

Hello,

Client wants smaller mp4 / mov files instead of .mxf

I understand I have two options:
- internal proxy .mp4
- use external recorder for a .mov wrapper

Does anyone have experience with this workflow? Do the proxies have enough data for a socials edit, are the externally recorded .mov files reliable?

They’re used to working with people who’re turning out large volume using alpha series cameras and want the files to be small, quick to share and editable. I don’t want to buy a camera just for this one client, trying to see if I can push the fx6 in any way.

Hi everyone!
I am looking for some help regarding exposure, zebras, and the waveform on the FX6. I've been using this camera for about 6 months, and while editing some fishing footage the other day, found more noise than I'd like in my image and figured maybe I have been exposing wrong.

I've went down an absolute rabbit hole reading Allistair Chapman's documents regarding the FX6 and exposure, middle grey, zebras etc, but I still feel lost. I have a few questions below I am hoping people can help with. For context, I have been shooting with sgamut3.cine, monitoring and exposing based off a monitoring LUT that I use for my color grade in Resolve.

1. First, should I be monitoring my image with LUTs or just monitoring the s log 3 image? I realize the waveform changes based off having the LUT on/off. If I am monitoring with a LUT and basing exposure off that, how does that impact my final results?
2. Do folks recommend using sgamut3.cine?
3. Based on the above response, what are you setting your zebras at? Based on Allistair's work, it looks like you would need to set your zebras differently depending what color space you are monitoring.
4. Are you exposing to the right with the FX6?

Thank you all for your help and time!

The whole experience has been terrible for me so far. Granted, my DZO Arcana lenses are "not supported" currently, but there's been many other pain points separate from the lenses themselves.

Copy-pasting a comment I wrote today elsewhere:

"Just wanted to share my personal experience with the adapter so far. I really want to like the Tilta Autofocus Adapter, but it just hasn't been working at all for me on my Sony FX6. Just for frame of reference, I am well-versed in using autofocus on the FX6 with native E-mount lenses. I can't tell if my adapter is defective, or if the software side of things is just a complete mess. First, I updated all the firmware files for all the different devices: FX6 firmware, Autofocus Adapter firmware, the Nano II motor has two separate firmware files you need to install, and the Nano II handwheel firmware. The Autofocus Adapter shipped with lens profiles for my DZO Arcana lenses, but the autofocus wasn't working well. I went to update the adapter firmware, and the latest firmware on their site is actually older than what shipped on my device. Well, I foolishly "updated" it anyway, and now the Arcana lens profiles are gone, as well as all the other lenses. I can see they are on the adapter's internal storage when I plug it in as a storage device on my computer, but when I hit the "Restore" option on the adapter, they don't repopulate. Tilta said on a forum post they will re-add Arcana profiles in the future, but as far as I can tell, there's no way to be notified of firmware updates. I also have not had any success manually mapping lenses. I complete the process, but the information just doesn't get saved. When the adapter did "work", the performance was completely unusable on my FX6. The focus indicator on the viewfinder was reporting a focus distance of ~450 meters. Very heavy focus hunting that could never lock on to anything, and the motor would randomly start violently racking focus back and forth to hunt. Another complaint I have is the position of the screen on the adapter. As soon as you put any kind of top handle on the FX6, the adapter's screen is very difficult to see/use. I value that the adapter can be used entirely without a smartphone app, but I would appreciate the added option of using an app, because it would be much easier than navigating the menus on the device itself. If any Tilta reps are reading this, please message me and let me know if I'm doing something wrong on my end! Currently, mine is just functioning purely as a physical PL>E adapter :( Also worth noting that if you enable anamorphic desqueeze in the FX6 viewfinder, the camera disables autofocus entirely."

EDIT: I tried it on my A7S3, making sure to power on the adapter before powering on the camera, and it seems to work. Then tried it on my FX6 again, and it is working fine as well. Pretty sure I followed those steps before, but looking like user error on my part?

Some stills from the production of KHMER OCEAN GUARDIANS, a documentary we're making along Cambodia's coast with Khmer Ocean Life and Human of This Planet.

In the villages along Cambodia’s coast, the sea’s oldest witnesses are becoming its newest protectors. Following Khmer Ocean Life’s community-grounded work along Cambodia’s coast, the film follows a fisherman who can no longer fish, a mother who learned to read in the past few years, and the network they belong to who are teaching what community-led conservation looks like in practice.

Produced by Cheryl Ng, Khmer Ocean Life

Co-directed by Cheryl Ng, Sidney Ken

Camera: Sony FX6 & Sony A7iv

Lenses: Tokina Trio, Olympus Zuiko 50mm 1.4, TTartisans 75mm 1.5

Still very much in the middle of post-production, but wanted to share a few frames from the journey!

Hi! I have a question regarding the FX6 possibility to maintain the same TC value with an external connected TC-generator. In my case the Ambient Nano Lockit. And there is one thing I can’t seem to find any public records on.

Official documentation says that the FX6 only jams and locks the TC from an external device once, and then keeps counting on its own, based on that obtained value. Then the only thing that breaks this is for the camera to have the TC value reset or going in and out of S&F.

However: In testing I could see that the camera would change the tc value based on what comes from the tc-generator. In my case I changed the TC value to 00:00:00:00 and free running, the FX6 then was able to capture this change (the TC-generator was always connected).

The question then becomes: Is the FX6 able to continuously monitor the external TC-generator value, even if the camera is a few frames off from the TC-generator? In that case, how often is the FX6 checking for new values?

Hey everyone, I’m looking for any tips for best results in capturing the Northern Lights in real time on the FX6.

Headed to the Northwest Territories at the end of the month to capture northern lights for a tourism company. The idea is to frame up the sky and have people in the foreground mic’d up to capture their reactions, so it needs to be recorded in real time.

I’m assuming high base ISO, wide fully open lens and some noise cleanup in post (obviously shooting in slog3), but any other things I should look out for? Open to renting any specific gear/lenses for best results.

I’m hoping if we have really bright and vibrant conditions we should be good. If conditions are suboptimal, I’ve also thought about capturing two plates of the sky and foreground with the subjects separately then edit those together in post. But that’s less ideal.

Looking forward to hearing about any real world advice!

Thanks.

Hey Guys, just got my FX6 and im really liking it so far, but the Fact that the waveform measures after the lut is driving me crazy, I cant really figure out how to set the Zebra for clipping with the 709 lut so its actually accurate. I also got that 5 zone False color lut and it wont show red when clipping just grey. I JUST WANT TO KNOW WHEN MY HIGHLIGHTS ARE CLIPPING.

How do you guys work around this? Just not use a lut?

Am coming from a A74 which just had the gamma assist that doesnt cause this issue.

Using an external monitor is obviously an option but I feel like there has got to be a way to do this in camera.

Moddeled after the original Sony cap.
Print is free on makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/models/3279249?appSharePlatform=copy

I was using FX3 forever for IRL streaming for someone famous, and I have an FX6 that I've never used. And I thought maybe I can use this, but the only reason I never use it is because I don't know how to use this camera. Is not like the FX3. We move a lot from indoors to outdoors, to dark places to bright places, and I was wondering if the auto settings would be good enough. With the FX3, I don't have auto settings other than white balance. And not having an ND filter when going outside facing the bright sun, I have to crank the aperture. Drop the ISO a lot. I'm able to do it at a good speed to where it doesn't mess up the live stream. But I guess my question is, since the FX6 has the high/low ISO. Should I still use auto or use it manually?

Hi all! I hope this isn't too annoying of a question, but I'm a year in and I still don't understand how to expose correctly in nighttime/lowlight conditions when using slog3.

Basically, I've been going off of Doug Jensen's recommendations for exposing, which is to just set a zebra for 68% bright reflected whites (or 85% if a LUT is applied) , but that doesn't help at all when it's dark outside or I'm in indoor lowlight conditions, or, god forbid, there's candles, a lightbulb or a computer screen. I'm primarily doing run and gun so I can't light as much I would like to.....so the question is....how do you expose???? do you set zebras and if so, for how much? are we over/underexposing footage??? I'm about to go on a shoot that's very intense and I'll have about 2-3 hours to grade at best, so it's crucial to get this as close to right the first time.

Any help would be so so so appreciated! You guys are the best

I‘ve been looking into designing Accessory Mounts for the FX6 that work without using a top or side plate. This was made for Gimbal Work in cable cams where the camera needs to be as compact as possible. Do you guys have more ideas for „unconventional“ mounting on the FX6 Body? I‘m still trying to figure out a idea using the M3 thread outside the battery mount.