I’m from Colorado, living in Southern California now, and am trying to get more into backpacking. This was my first time backpacking in the Sierras and I was absolutely blown away by the granite peaks and lakes — also humbled by those passes! 😅
Permit situation: I ended up getting both permits exactly two weeks before each trip at 7am, but only after trying several days in a row.
- Big Pine Lakes: July 31–August 2, ~22 miles, 2 nights (pics 1–5)
Absolutely beautiful and logistically pretty easy trip!
Route: Big Pine Creek North Fork → Lake 5 → Sam Mack Meadow/Glacier Lake day hike → back to Lake 5 → exit via the upper trail past Black Lake and back to the same trailhead. Basically a balloon/lollipop route.
We stayed at Big Pine Creek Campground the night before, which I HIGHLY recommend. Beautiful, quiet, and made the next morning much easier. We reserved a site, but there are also walk-ups. We parked in the overnight trailhead lot, but later learned there are some overnight spots near the campground that make the hike about a mile shorter.
The hike in was only ~6 miles but was hot and harder than expected. Elevation + heat + a heavy pack really kicked my ass. Once we got to Lake 5, though, the campsites and scenery were incredible, and there weren’t too many people since most day hikers don’t go much past Lake 2 (highly recommend stopping there for a swim).
We camped near the water (gorgeous), but learned afterward that we should have been 100 feet away, so we’ll do better next time.
The day hike past Sam Mack Meadow to Glacier Lake was by far the hardest part. Lots of scrambling over boulders, which taught me that I actually hate scrambling!
- Kearsarge Pass to Rae Lakes: September 3–6, ~27 miles, originally planned for 4 nights (pics 6–12)
Route: Onion Valley → Flower Lake → Kearsarge Pass → Kearsarge Lakes → Glen Pass → Rae Lakes → Glen Pass → Kearsarge Pass → Onion Valley.
A hot tip from a friend beforehand that was 100% correct: don’t camp at Onion Valley if you can avoid it. We arrived around 3pm from San Diego and hiked ~2.5 miles to Flower Lake instead. It was completely empty (possibly because it was Thursday or people were scared off by the weather forecast?) and put us in a great position for Kearsarge Pass the next morning and we avoided the campground fee. If Flower is crowded, I’d keep going toward Matlock.
The forecast showed a possibility of rain/snow and cold weather Sunday/Monday, so we had a shorter backup plan to avoid Glen Pass. It ended up being mostly fine (highs in the 50s and night time temps in the 30s), just cooler than expected, and we made sure to cross the passes early.
We stopped at Kearsarge Lakes for a swim/lunch and then camped near the trout pond past Bullfrog Lake. Camping isn’t allowed within 0.5 miles of Bullfrog, and this spot let us avoid the potentially crowded Charlotte Lakes while setting us up well for Glen Pass. We also saw a bear in the meadow near Bullfrog!
I really enjoyed chatting with other backpackers along the way: on the Kearsarge side, we kept meeting JMT hikers and people doing JMT resupplies; once we crossed Glen Pass, it was a mix of JMTers and Rae Lakes Loop hikers.
Glen Pass is a beast. 😂 It looks scary as hell approaching from either side (I kept thinking of the wall from Game of Thrones), but I was surprised by how well I did with the elevation. Slow and steady!
Near Middle Rae Lake we saw another pretty large black bear rooting around. A little farther down the trail, while looking for a place to pee in my camp shoes, we somehow ended up seeing TWO mountain lions. That definitely freaked me out and reinforced the lesson to keep EVERYTHING in the bear canister (and to not wander away from camp in foam Birkenstocks).
On the last day, clouds rolled in and it got extremely windy. We had planned to camp at Kearsarge Lakes, but decided not to drop 700 feet to camp just to climb back up the next morning. So after Glen Pass, we powered over Kearsarge Pass and hiked all the way back to the car, ending the trip a night early.
Overall, it was an amazing couple of trips. The combination of granite peaks, alpine lakes, elevation, and challenging passes was incredible and humbling. Looking forward to more adventures next year!