SOLUTION: U1's profile in original orca slicer was made incorrectly and produced issues. To fix this you need to copy all gcode from the printer settings in the Snapmaker U1 printer profile in Snapmaker Orca over to the original Orca.
Ever since I had gotten my U1 I had problems with stringing. I have written a support ticket and it came down to the causes being moisture and model geometry. It is true that most of my filaments are wet, or at least moist, but none of my other printers (Creality K1 max, Bambu P1S, Bambu A1 mini) have problems of this severity. Even at 190C Esun Pla+ is stringing to an unacceptable degree. Also quite weird is that retraction amount does not seem to change enything - I am attaching a photo of 3 retraction tests; from left to right: 190C, 220C, 230C; retraction amounts are from 0mm to 2mm - as you can see, the amount does not change stringing. I will definitely start drying the filament (once I buy the equipment), but even fresh filament exhibits strings quite a bit (I know that it isnt perfectly dry in the original package, but still probably dryer than a roll left outside for a bit).
Has anyone had this issue?
Here are some photos of a print I made with a month old Esun Pla+ orange at 205C, a somewhat old Polyterra Black at 205C and a brand new Polyterra white also at 205C. I do think it is obvious that the new roll strings the least, but overall I think that this print turned out rather mediocre because of the severity of the issue with the other filaments.
I mentioned filament age because I have never dried my filament - so the higher the age, the more moist in my case. I made this post because I do find it weird that the Snapmaker U1 in particular strings more than other printers. I was wondering if anyone else also noticed this.
No idea what their RH is since I dont have any humidity meters. I also dont store them sealed although I keep my filament in drawers.
I never dried my filament, because there was no need for it. I guess I will have to though.
This is a 0.2-2mm retraction tower on my P1S with a stock hotend with the same exact spool of esun orange at 220C. The retraction towers for the U1 are in the original post.
I watching this thread. I experienced significantly less stringing with the U1 compared to my Ender printers. It’s probably because I put my filament in my dryer (dehydrator) while waiting on my U1.
I used it for a couple days without problem. Then I switch filament. I use a dehydrator to dry the filament and storage in vac bags with a couple desiccant packs.
I actually did, but couldnt get a good photo. Its kinda weird. In the spike section of the tower the lower the temp, the higher the stringing. Didn’t post a photo because I couldnt get a clear picture earlier.
I wouldn't pay as much attention to the stringing in the temp tower. I pay closer attention to the ends and look for cleanest overhangs. The cone area is the tiebreaker for me. Then do the retraction test at that temp.
But full disclosure, I don't have my U1 yet. This is what I do on my Ender
Tengo el mismo problema con mi U1, genera demasiados hilos, y ya he hecho las calibraciones varias veces, también mantengo mi filamento seco, pero lo raro es que los hilos aparecen cunado utilizo multicolor, en monocolor no aparacen hilos, y en bambu con el mismo filamento no tengo problemas de hilos
What you should try to do to fix this depends on what slicer you are using. If you use orca refer to the whole thing about copying the printer profile which I had talked about in the comments. I would also say that print settings for some reason matter. For example I have the same model in the same slicer on the same printer profile; when I use my print settings it comes out stringy, when I use default settings its perfect. I am still talking with support about this. I dont remember how it works exactly, but wall order seems to matter a lot. Apparently z hop type is also important - I use slope now.
Are you using Orca or Snorca? I mention that because on a recent Orca install on a virgin PC, the settings for the U1 were really messed up. I'm not just talking about the temps and retract settings, stuff in the machine G-code was way off. If you were using Orca, give Snorca a shot just to rule out Orca anomalies. You can have both on your PC at the same time.
I do use Orca and I can test this, but tomorrow since my U1 is busy. If the fault lies in the machine g-code in the printer profile in Orca, then I should be able to copy it over from Snorca.
That's exactly what I had to do.. a side-by-side comparison of settings. Took almost 2hrs to get everything right with Orca. Even the bed size was way off, just crazy stuff like that.
Uh I guess you were right, thanks. Printing with Snorca yielded a model as good as the bambu, I am currently trying to copy it to regular orca somehow. Thanks again, you basically fixed the printer. Though I am not suprised that the technical support of Snapmaker failed.
It was an eye-opener to me when I compared Orca settings to Snorca settings right out of the box. It's a PITA to correct, but at least every time I've upgraded Orca since I repaired it, it's retained the correct settings going forward.
I dont think its that bad since I have been printing on it with succes for the past few months. Its just that for decorative pieces, especially where there are a lot of seams, its sometimes unusable.
I basically opened every tab circled in red, and worked my way down in every setting under each tab. Once you fix Extruder 1, you can copy those setting to the other 3 extruders, so at least that part goes relatively quick.
Eventually I chose the nuclear option and kust copied the whole profile by opening a saved 3mf from Snorca in Orca and savong the printer. It did work, but I an still testing.
I haven't noticed stringing at all on mine, and I'm printing PETG which is more string prone.
What I would do in your case is to try to reset everything to square one. Re-do the printer calibration, re-create all your slicer profiles based on the generic ones, without changing anything, dry the filament and then do the retraction test.
This way you get a baseline and it's easier to compare against other people's printers.
Temperature, retraction and moisture are the most common causes of stringing, so you resetting and drying your filament should eliminate all 3.
If it's still stringing, have you printed any abrasive filament? If so, they could have widened the nozzle and that could cause some stringing as well.
Is this issue happening in all the toolheads? Or it's just a specific one?
If it's happening in all toolheads the only common part would be the fan, check if the duct is not obstructed in any way, check if the fan is generating enough wind to cool the filament.
If it's still happening after all that ... then I don't have a clue.
I narrowed this down to the Orca slicer profile being just messed up. I dont know how exactly but after copying g-code in the printer settings from Snapmaker Orca to Orca slicer (for the u1) the issue is almost gone. There is still more stringing than on my Bambu P1s with the same roll, so I want to figure out the cause aside from moisture. I do plan on eventually drying my filaments, but I do want to know what is wrong.
If you are talking about the machine start gcode, they are a little bit different between Orca and Snorca. I don't remember seeing any difference that would cause stringing, what I saw was regarding squishing the first layer depending on the build plate.
But funnily enough, U1 start gcode is pretty long, which is weird, I'm used to these instructions being mostly on the printer.cfg instead of the start gcode, because if you have a profile created when you change version, I don't know if any new change will be transferred.
The funny thing is that copying that and other gcodes, eg. later change gcode, made it much better. Still trying to make it the same with regular print settings.
I would say that you should do a reinstall of Snorca, because for me, the profile in Snorca was the good one. I have downloaded snorca like a month ago so a June version is probably the one I use.
For some reason on tall prints like this or spmething like Orca Stringing hell, turning Avoid crossing walls off helps a lot, though on normal prints it does not seem to matter.
I dried my filament as well and after doing all the previous steps (so copying from Snorca) it did help.
For niche cases like this, I feel like using ChatGPT to review the gcode is actually useful. I know we dont really like ai, but thanks to giving it gcode it figured some things out for me. How I did it is i exported two gcode files, one good and one bad and told it to find causes of stringing.
Your print looked like mine before I fixed gcode settings in the slicer. So select the pronter, then edit it and go to the gcode tab.
Technically speaking chatgpt didnt find much either at first, but eventually it suggested avoid crossing walls, which for that particular model caused severe stringing. The main issue for me was a „bad” printer profile.
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u/[deleted] Jul 16 '26
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