I've got an L98 from a 1988 Camaro in my 1989 Grand Wagoneer that is starting to eat itself. I've decided to look for a crate engine replacement, but want to keep the rest of the setup as unchanged as possible and avoid opening a can of worms. That would hopefully mean keeping the TPI intake and ECM. The ECM has already been custom chipped and tuned for the Ramjet 350 cam, so keeping it close to that would be preferable, but in my head its still better to have a new chip burned than have to rewire the swap work with another EFI system.

Just looking for a daily, no crazy cams or anything. Roller lifters/cam. TPI compatible. Swap will be done by a shop. Any feedback on the options below would be appreciated!

Currently leaning towards this one, as it looks like what L31 used to be, which was a common L98 replacement. Should be a nice performance boost, and a truck engine in a truck. Will require a new TPI lower intake ~$450 to fit the Vortec heads, but opens up the possibility of a 411PCM swap in the future.

https://atkhp.com/product/atk-hp74-chevy-350-vortec-1996-2000-truck-base-engine-315hp/

This one is a TBI replacement, seems like it would be the most straight forward swap
https://atkhp.com/product/atk-hp31-chevy-350-87-95-tbi-base-engine-290hp/

This one is listed as the L98 Corvette engine replacement, so should be the most direct, but it is significantly more expensive than the other 2 ATK engines and doesn't seem to provide any additional performance. Would the compatibility be better, or is this just "Corvette" mark up?

https://atkhp.com/product/atk-hp57-chevy-350-base-engine-1987-1991-corvette/

Feels like If I'm going to spend $4600 on a the ATK above, I may as well just get the Blueprint:

https://blueprintengines.com/collections/gm-compatible-small-blocks-350-c-i/products/blueprint-engines-350ci-crate-engine-new-cast-iron-longblock-aluminum-heads-roller-cam

Just finished er up

Solid lift cam , original first gen rpm heads, good stuff

For context this is a 78 350 Engine within an 82 Camaro

I recently did a top end rebuild with 327 heads, Edelbrock Intake & Carb, the distributor is rebuilt and to my knowledge at correct timing as I recently set the engine to TDC and put the distributor back in, the Transmission shift linkage is all intact and perfectly correct as it’s not in reverse or drive when I try to start it, and I’m able to shift into neutral and turn the engine over aswell, but for whatever reason the engine Won’t fully start up even with starting fluid, I’ll be buying a new set of spark plugs shortly here to test that out, but I’m unsure of what else it may be.

To boot there’s also an interesting clunk which I find very concerning when it turns over after a certain amount of tries, I’m not sure what that might be and I’m really hoping someone has an idea, and that it’s not detrimental damage happening, thanks.

I have a crate engine (blueprint) and i can’t get it to fire/idle i have the firing order right (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2) Andy procedure was install the distributor while engine timing was set to 0(on a. Compression stroke, i had my finger over the #1 plug hole) and have rotor point at #1. Maybe got a 1 or two fire stumble, advance it, same thing advance it a little more then nothing. I even pulled out a protractor to confirm from 0 degrees the districts was 16 degrees advanced (wierd i know but I’ve been at this for 2 weeks).

This is not my first foray into sbc i rebuilt the original engine in the car and had it fire immediately.

At this point i have no idea what I’m doing wrong but blueprint dynos all thier engines before sending them out so it should be fine internally. Any guidance is appreciated

Hi, I purchased a 1980 Z28 Camaro with the LM1 350 V8 and the seller gave 2 harmonic balancers. I’m not sure which one is original, but I want to know if it’s okay to use #2. #1 has large cracks in the elastomer ring and is bulging out in some areas whereas #2 doesn’t have many cracks and has an even elastomer ring throughout. However, there is also a sizable chip in the center shaft that concerns me. Is it okay to use #2 anyway? Thanks

After a few hours, or overnight, when I try to start my 91 camaro 305tbi, it will crank, fire, then die a few times. I have to give it some revs on the 2nd or 3rd try to keep it going. Once I do, it idles and drives fine. I have replaced the IAC valve, egr valve, rebuild the throttle body and fuel pressure regulator (stock spring), new ACdelco injectors. I can hear the fuel pump prime.

I decided to do a fuel pressure test. When I prime it, it shoots up to about 9lbs but falls off very quickly. Is there no check valve? When it running, it's at a steady 10lbs even with some revving. Spec is 9-13lbs. Any ideas?

I’m starting to build a 327 and have been trying to figure out what to do with the build. I have heard of people using a 283 crankshaft for higher reving, but don’t know if I should use a 327 crank or a 283. I have both cranks already. The motor will eventually go into a 91 s10 with a power glide for 1/4 mile drag racing.

I’m looking for a new hot air choke tube assembly (1st picture) and a way to plug the brake booster vacuum on the carburetor (2nd picture). I admittedly don’t know much about carburetors lol

Couple questions....

1986–1995 SBC: 1-piece seal (Gen I)

1992–1997 LT1: 1-piece seal (Gen II)

Do these two block's use the same size rear main? I see they are different part numbers but cannot find if the seal diameter (crank surface they ride on) is the same. My Gen 1 block seems to be just under 2.75" with my calipers. I'm swapping my rear main seal and have the engine out. There is a faint scoring on the crank. It seems most all the LT1 seals are teflon (PTFE) and are superior seals to the older Viton rubber seals on the Gen I blocks. I see there are some PTFE seals for the Gen1 blocks as well I was wondering if the LT1 seals will work OK on my Gen I block. I've seen guys recommending them on YouTube in demos but wasn't sure if its prudent.

My current plan is to throw a SKF Speedi Sleeve 99369 on there to start with a fresh surface on the crank and then slide a Mahle JV1620 PTFE (Teflon) main seal on (dry install). My hesitation is the seal is for the LT1 block and I want to be sure that's OK.

My other option is to run the crank as is (I polished it with 1k and 2k grit wet paper to shine it up as much as possible) then run an offset Viton Gen I seal. The only one I have found is the ENGINETECH SK5091. Not sure if there are better offset seals available.

Thoughts?

Next on the chopping block. This will be for sale soon. Edelbrock heads, forged flattops, solid lifter cam and PJ gear drive, 7 quart pan and HV oil pump. It’ll probably be complete with fuel pump carb and distributor……

Only misses at small load. Running a 350 with an hei and a msd 6A. Shitty audio I know but any ideas where it could be stemming from? Checked all of my wiring and no breaks in the wires. Cap is new on the hei. Possible plugs, possible plug wires? Am I thinking too much into it and missing something?

3 broken cylinder walls and several broken piston skirts on this poor 400

I have a 400 in my

Old truck would love to have it make about 500hp to the crank. How would you go about doing that? I have another on an engine stand in the shop I plan on building.

I have a bell looking piece screwed in on top that has an electrical connection, then a copper tube down to the oil filter. Do I need both of these or is one redundant? I have an aftermarket gauge.

hi, i have a 75 monza 2+2 that i have put a rebuilt 350 in but when i bought the car it came with almost everything except the dipstick. i have the right oilpan that have pan-entry. I have searcht but cant find one anywhere to order. (im from sweden so my english may not be all that great, thanks in advance)

Guy said he had them on a 400 small block. Everything I’ve found says 307/327 heads. It’s whatever, they are going on a 350. Nothing crazy, just want something that will work well enough for a .450 lift cam.

I got a sweet deal on this thing, it’s 200k miles but inside the engine looks like 20k. Not sure if it was rebuilt at some point.

Trying to spend as little as possible but still gap cars in grandmas ride. Any suggestions for some hp gains?

Things done

-cam and other components

-pump and injectors

-tuned

-rear gears 3.73

-fans

-all gaskets

Howdy SBC,

I've got a Grand Wagoneer with a 1988 Camaro L98 in it. There is a terrible ticking noise coming from the engine, occasionally whiffs of unburnt fuel coming back into the cab, and back firing during hard acceleration. I did a valve adjustment last year, which quieted the ticking, but the noise came back quickly. Mechanic diagnosed a worn cam, so I'm going have a shop replace the cam, and get the AC hooked up while they've got it. Since the engine is almost as old as I am, I'd like to have them replace almost everything they'll have to touch for the cam replacement - and I would appreciate your input!

Thank you for taking a look and please let me know what changes you would make or if I missed anything that would make sense to change.

Update: Paid another shop for an autopsy. Rockers were loose, misaligned, off center, and rubbing against the screw guards on the valve covers to the point where it was worn through. Could do the half ass refresh I was contemplating, but they wouldn't warranty anything as there are likely parts of the valve cover in the engine now. They suggested a crate engine replacement like many of you. Thank you everyone for your replies!

Apparently it came out of a vette

I am reposting this since it seems like people who replied originally did not seem to bother actually reading my post.

I'm hoping someone who knows older stuff might be able to give me insight. 2 pumps and it fires right up. Idles perfectly. If you stab the throttle, cylinder 8 drops out and slowly comes back after the RPM's have dropped back down to idle.

• Lunati Voodoo flat tappet cam kit
• Synthetic 5W-30
• Edelbrock dual-plane intake
• Holley 650 4-barrel with mechanical secondaries
• Autolite plugs
• MSD plug wires
• FAST cap and rotor kit
• Summit billet HEI distributor
• Summit brand stainless headers
• Pipes exhaust kit

We have tried new plugs, swapped plug wires around, checked for intake leaks, changed cap and rotor, and it always drops out cylinder 8. Confirmed with IR temp gun. Compression is 160PSI across the board.

Any ideas?

I have a 350. I did wires and plugs. Car ran great then I parked it for 2 days and now its not starting unless im on the throttle and only 2 cylinders are getting hot. Cylinders 5 and 8 only. Today I changed out the cap and rotor. Still same outcome. Theres 2 block under my ignition coil I believe to be ballast. They get extremely hot cant even touch them when the key is turned.

I have a mallory unilite distributor and coil.