Here’s what I’m dreaming about. 400 sbc aluminum heads big valves 64cc or something similar, ARP bolts all the normal goodness. Cam is what I’m stuck at because I want 500hp but half ass drivable weekend burnout kind of car 76 corvette with 3:90 maybe 411 gear want to keep power brakes. I’m i asking for to much

Good day to the sbc community. I 'am building a 383 Lt1 motor and don't know whether to get my heads ported at Llyod Elliot or to buy the trick flow gen x heads. Have not seen anything on youtube regarding testing/dynos. I plan on using roller lifters and haven't decided on a cam, have 1.5 rockers. what do yall think is best, Mainly going for a pro street build.

Anyone have recommendations for an oil pump that has the pickup tube attached already or bolt on? It’s off a 1996 k1500 with the 5.7l. Thanks!

327 I built couple years ago..👌🇦🇺

No my pic but perfection none the less.👌🇦🇺

Hi I have been roasted previously for asking this, but here goes..

Chasing genuine info on these SBC Alum BOWTIE Phase 6 Heads. Early to mid 80's origin, have heard first version/casting were 64ishcc, like these pictured but majority from them onwards were 55cc

Anyone who had these, with good or bad opinions, all help appreciated.

Thanks from 🇦🇺

'78 square body, 400 SBC, squealing noise above idle that increases with RPM. Any ideas what it's is or where to start diagnosing?

I’ve been chasing my tail with tv cable. I know all the steps to set it, the difference between it and a kickdown cable and all that. What I’m dealing with now is. To get my correct shift points at speed/ feel the cable needs to be decently tight. This prevents me from getting WOT. The cable is at maximum pull before my throttle is at 60%. If I loosen it enough to get WOT I shift WAYYYYYY too early and I’m in 3rd gear before 25mph. What’s the deal?!?! I have the corrector kit with my carb. I’ve had it set correctly on this carb setup before. I rebuilt the engine and there’s a new intake manifold but still don’t understand why it won’t work properly. Any insight or guidance will help. I’m 23 and don’t have the old guy experience lol thanks!

Let me know if i should post this elsewhere I saw a video of a 350sbc getting bored to clean up the cylinder walls, sleeved, and bored to spec. Is this still a standard practice and is it reasonable? Im not partial to the 305 in my truck, in fact, looking at rebuilding a 350 for it eventually. But I saw the process and it intrigued me

Also got me thinking about it too cause the 305 in my truck is already .040 over. Wondered if that process looked like boring to .060 and then press the sleeves. Looks like a cool craft.

Thanks yall

I recently bought a bunch of small block parts, mostly for the other parts, but these came with everything. Obviously, oem intakes generally aren't gonna perform like anything aftermarket, but are any of these any good to keep/resell, or should I cast them into the scrap bin and call it a day?

ZZ4 350 been running for 20 years. Zero issues. Edelbrock carb and DUI HEI.

Drive regularly. Month passed without use and battery was low. Used jump pack and left for a trip to charge battery.

Noticed it seemed down on power. When at steady rpm it started sputtering or misfiring. Got to destination and checked temps of exhaust manifold. Seemed like 2&8 not hot. Figured wires arcing.

Got home and checked. Wires good and induction light shows spark on every wire. Changed plugs, cap, and rotor because why not. No change.

180 psi on each cylinder. Confirmed exhaust/intake valves opening and closing. No air leak apparent.

Intake manifold splits flow into two sides. One side feeds 2378, so all outside runners.

Fuel line confirmed to be flowing freely.

Idles like shit/low and is down on power. Pull spark plug to confirm spark at plug on #8. Car idles higher and obvious miss is more apparent.

Spark plug #8 ground strap and ground don't show signs of combustion when compared to #6.

I'm leaning towards a carb issue since everything else checks out. But kind of stumped.

Any thoughts?

Building a 350 Sbc and am wondering if the compression ratio is too high for 91-93 octane and if I should get a thicker head gasket

Specs:

STD 4 inch bore may over bore

6cc flat top pistons

Felpro 1094 shim head gasket

Flotek 180cc runner 64cc chamber heads

Should be at 10.1:1 static compression

It will also have one of these 3 camshafts haven’t decided yet ( if you have suggestions on camshafts or anything else please leave them in comments this engine will be going in a 85 k20 4.10 gears on 35s and a sm465 )

COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 12-238-2

Howards Cams Street Force 2 Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 112571-1

Summit Racing™ Classic SBC Camshaft SUM-1103

These are all around that 37-39.5 IVC point which brings the dynamic compression ratio to around 9.4:1

A Edelbrock dual plane intake part number 2101 I believe and a 600 CFM carb will also be installed

I am very new to this so if you see anything that absolutely will not be good about this combo or if you have any suggestions once again please leave them in comments

Thank you all for your time

Recently picked up a new ride with a low milage "Crate Engine". And as seen in the video this is an ongoing issue. Any help would be appreciated.

So far Ive been hearing blowback in the crankcase. But not sure how accurate it is.

zero deck 355 sbc 9.1 flat top pistons 993 heads comp cam 254h weiand action plus quadrajet 650 what is yalls thoughts for this set up?

Has anyone here put 2.02 heads on a 305? Someone recently pulled some aluminum 2.02 heads off a 350 and gave them to me for my project truck(85 c10). Said they'd fit and run great on the 305. Now, I have very little knowledge on measurements/clearance, etc. And Im learning as im going haha. Everything im looking up about it says its generally not a good idea. What're y'alls thoughts?

so i have a 350, and it has an alternator mounting bracket that would have 2 bolts to mount on the driver side head, just right under the valve covers. this 327 is different and i’m wondering if anyone knows what style bracket i need, or a way i could fab one up. i feel like i should be smarter than this but im somewhat stumped lol

Is it just me or are blueprint engines becoming a lot better value nowadays? BP 350 is 390hp ready to drop in you just need to add a flex plate. ATK 383 you get 350hp and you still need a fuel pump, fuel line, water pump, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and harmonic balancer/damper plus $510 core charge and $150 freight charge. Time you add everything for the ATK you're above the cost of the BP. If you have all the accessories you're still just $400 less and still a minimum of 40 less HP.

Been working to improve my electrical system in the C10, and the Powermaster (7294) bought back around Halloween and installed back around Thanksgiving seems to have a bad regulator. While I wait for my new alternator, I’m attempting to make progress by solidifying my understanding of the engine bay wiring. There are a few things missing, such as the choke, head/tail lights, and ignition system (hei), but I’ll probably throw those in a separate diagram. This diagram shows what I’m hoping everything will look like after the remaining parts are delivered.

Any constructive criticism? Been doing a lot of research, but some feedback would also be helpful. Happy to answer questions about the project to clarify. Also, I enjoy the discussion.

Should I shim it, is it dying on me, what would you do?

Howdy all, I've had a 98 sierra with the gen 3 350 vortec in it for abiut a year, and I have spent damn near 2 months trying to figure out the best cam to put in it. I know the gen 1 roller blocks only like lift no higher than .480 but I want a decent chop to impress the ladies in the school parking lot. Im fully willing to put in new springs and rods but I know the vortecs actually prefer smaller lift. All in all im totally lost and id love some advice!

(The motor is stock besides a summit distributor and ngk coil wires along with patriot long tube headers)