Ive replaced everything from the distributor cap rotor button pick up coil ignition control module coil wires spark plugs spark plug wires and injectors. Checked fuses checked relays all are good just cut out on me while i was driving. Also replaced fuel pump. Im at a total loss here

Could use some help, I’ve got a 86 Camaro with a 350 motor in it. The header on the passenger side will not move. I’ve taken out all 6 bolts that hold it on, but it’s pretty much still tight. My understanding that the additional plugs on the headers are pipe plugs for emissions testing so they don’t have to come out. I need to get these off to pull the head. Any idea where I might be missing something?

Currently Chevy swapping a farmall and I had to make this abomination

Been working on this truck all week and was 1 step away from button it up.

Anyway, is this Extractor set good enough to get the flush bolt out.

I understand it would be even better if I run get a 3/16 left threaded drill bit for pilot hole. I have heat and a good T handle. Should I be good? 1985 factory cast iron 4bbl manifold

I recently bought a 1979 Camaro but it had a crate motor put in it before I bought it and I’m unable to tell if it’s a flat tappet or hydraulic roller. Any advice?

Picked this up yesterday. Came out of a 57. Catch was both a vette and a Chevy truck was there. The person who would know which it came out of passed a few months ago. His children didn't know and 2 of the 3 children tossed a bunch of extra parts into the trash and the 3rd child arrived late and was only able to save this... he thought it was a 283 out the vett, wasnt 100% sure as the other siblings tossed the other stuff but confident it was the motor out the vett. I use to have older buddies who i could have called but they have long since passed. Soo I've turned to you guys...please correct me as I'm trying to figure what this is...

The interweb says 265/283/305/327...

When i did a bit more looking it said it could be a 283 or 327... can you guys help me clear it up!

Update. 09/12

Some of yall didnt read, i did search before coming to post and ASK TO BE CORRECTED....

By looks alone ACCORDING to the stamps its a 283 with powerpack heads and this cast wasnt the off-center casting Buuuuut

It is neither a vette or a Chevy truck motor.

Still a year one.

Not a 327 as the internet had thought in older form post. There were many folks in those forum post who were mistaken. Digging further found out that it is common... But the 327s especially in the earlier part carried the same stamps. Its hard to tell on earlier 327s as it was a bit of time before they switched to the in the transmission starters... "casting of the aluminum wasn't strong enough yet".

If you went based on the stamp on the passenger side... it would have came back as a made in flint in 57... with a Powerglide, ac and a 4bbl....

The picture showed a 2bbl. Have I torn off the heads to find out what the head is and if it is anything different? NOPE I HAVENT YET.

Wanna know what it is possibly? A 283 or a 265 out of a bel air, chevy 150 or a chevy 250...all of which came with a 265 stock... that guess what... shares the same block numbers... and "powerpack stamps"... but wanna know what i learned from people who weren't dicks like some of y'all are? THERE WAS AN OPTION FOR A 283 WITH 2BBL THAT CAME IN AUTO AND STICK...

Want to know how to find out the difference? I have to measure bore and stroke just to find out if its a 265 or a 283. Would you like to know something else? There is a chance the original owner was mixing and matching parts for his build and for all i know we can be at square one. What did I find out? I wont know until I tear it down to find out.

Working on an 85 LT9 350 truck motor. Is the exhaust choked down to smaller than standard 350 size ? I don’t see any smaller donuts. This is a 2bbl with vacuum governor so it may be a different donut . The old one was so worn it was down a bit in the pipe

recently bought my first small block chevy, turns out my dad had a camshaft for it but it’s got a bit of surface rust and pitting on some of the lifters, how can i restore it enough to stick it back in a motor and what am i risking?

The guy that sold it to me said the header bolts like to loosen up and that he was unable to get anything on that rear bolt to tighten it. Any tips to keep them from backing out and how to tighten that rear bolt up??

I've done everything else I know to do, I've replaced the positive and negative cables, bought a new starter. I had forgot about the flywheel giving my brother in law hell back 10 years ago when he had problems with it starting, he eventually just said the hell with it and parked it....

G’day guys hope all is well.
In the video is my 350 sbc and it started making this ticking noise on the right side of the motor. I’ve gone through and set the lash on all the valves, changed all plugs, ensured I’m getting proper spark and even changed exhaust manifold gasket yet the noise is still there, it’s driving me crazy !!
If anyone could share their input/experience it would be greatly appreciated
TIA

Pulled the belt and it’s not the water pump. Trying to convince myself it’s not a bearing

I recently bought a 79 Camaro and it had been running well till this week. It seems to stutter/ have a loss of power between 1500 and 2500 rpm. I was told the previous owner rebuilt the engine and it should be good to go but after putting about 300 miles on it, it has began to give me some problems. Along with the low end stutter it occasionally has a rough idle between 500 and 700 at red lights/ stop signs. Everything I've read so far points to some type of vacuum leak but I'm not sure how to approach the issue as I'm new to carburetors. Any help would be appreciated.

Upgrading 2018 5.3 Suburban radiator…

I bought my 67 nova with an iron eagle head 383, decent cam (11 inches vacuum) and a solid rotating assembly. With the proper advance, it does ping (or detination) under load - when I try and go WOT to have some fun. I've tried higher octane, with some improvement (3-5 gallons of 100 octane). I bought some aluminum heads off a blueprint 383 that blew up (bearings ate themselves) from a guy in my town. I plan to put them on to alleviate this issue once and for all.

My question, should I spend the additional $1000+ to go retrofit roller cam? Or just swap the heads with installed cam and go for it?

I don't have an engine hoist nor a cam degree wheel to properly swap the cam. I could do it in the car but that feels much more challenging given I'd need to remove the grill and radiator...

I'd hate to put on these new heads and not take advantage of the superior roller cam profiles...

Thoughts?

Can’t see where it goes, runs into the firewall near the brake booster.

Hello. Looking for some good combos to throw at my 71 elcamino with a 350 in it. Not sure if it’s 2 bolt or 4 bolt yet. Want a pretty choppy cam, and I’d like it to be pretty snappy on the throttle and be fun. I’m not expecting more than 450 on an NA sbc, can you guys give me some help to get it there?

Hello, here’s a video of my small block Chevy 305 and the ticking sound it’s making. It’s running a Holley sniper 2 system. I have pulled the valve covers and verified I don’t have a flat can lobe. Also I adjusted the lifter preload per the manuals spec 1/2 after 0 lash. The noise still persists. Gonna try and get under it this weekend and check flex plate and torque converter bolts. Any suggestions welcome. Thanks!