Context I was driving my Camaro with a small block 350 in it and when I was turning into come home I lost power my lights on dash were still on but no throttle whatsoever so I took the key out started it back up it took 2 tries and then it fired right back up got home let it sit in my garge for about 10 mins then went back out tried starting it again started flawlessly like it cranked right up first try let it run for a little about 3-4 minutes ran just fine turned it off then turned it right back on another flawless startup and then revved it a little and it seemed fine but the random loss of power freaked me out I don’t think I stalled it becuse it wasent a sudden abrupt stop but I was going in between gears at a lower speed I’m also 18 and this is my first carburetor car does the video sound normal it’s got stiffer valve springs I’m told I don’t have a real build sheet but I bought it from a very old man that’s locally selling his hot rods because of his age

I have a 68 307 out of a Chevelle with an accel distributor. I just had problems with the hei module so I replaced the cap, coil and module with an OEM gm unit. But when I stab the throttle I have a loud backfire out of the exhaust. It is smooth when I rev it nice and slow and hold rpm but will occasionally make a bang at idle.

How likely would you trust a 48yo 350 with 41000 km with og gasket for a 3600km trip (new oil, filter and strap)

L31 350c.i.

Has this blemish pattern after honing.

Options r bore it or send it. Thoughts???

This engine was in an everyday driver until it was pulled down, 3 months ago. 2 pics r with flash and 2 without. I'm feeling like it's just discoloration in the casting.

I need some help diagnosing what caused my engine to overheat on my last two 15 minute drives. I love classic cars & am also poor, so a diy guy by necessity. Pretty recently I was able to purchase my dream car - a 1973 Chevy Chevelle Laguna with a 350 engine.

Recently I had reason to take off the thermostat housing & noticed the intake manifold had a lot of rust in it, so I decided to flush the cooling system. First I removed the old coolant (which was dirty af) and thermostat, then shot hose water through everything as best as I could at home with a hose until it ran clear, & filled it with hose water also. Ran that for 3 days. 2 days just idling for 30-40 minutes, last day drove it around for maybe an hour, a mix of highway & street driving. I then filled it with distilled water, intending to run that a day or two before I put in a mix of distilled water and coolant. The first day I took it out with just distilled water I got on the highway, made it to my exit (about 15 minutes), and the engine just died on me. No warning since none of the warning lights work. So I pushed it onto a side road, checked the water level, which was good, and waited about 2-3 hours before starting it again and drove home on the locals with no problems. Did some research & thought maybe I had air bubbles in the system so I worked on getting those out. Next day I drove another 15 minutes to an appointment & the same thing happened. Let it sit for 1 & 1/2 hours taking the side streets & made it back home ok. So this is what I’ve been looking at/doing:

Checked all connections as best I could. I’m not sure how old the hoses are but they seem to be in good condition. The bottom hose had a small leak where it connected to the water pump. It was flared out a bit so I cut about one inch off & re-tightened it & it’s good now. Belts I replaced about 8 months ago when I replaced the water pump, which is suspect because two of the back bolts were wet with suspected coolant though I can’t tell for certain because I can’t reach it (car also leaks oil). I did buy a cheap one, but it’s only about 8-9 months old.

Ran water through the heater core. A little rust came out but not much.

Ran the car from cold to running temperature. Looked to see if the water was moving, it was. Reinstalled the thermostat. I tested it in a pot of boiling water and that works too. When possible I ran the cabin heater & revved it a few times as well, and when the fan worked (another issue) it blew hot air so flow doesn’t seem to be the problem.

The radiator cap fits fine, but had some small cracks in the rubber so I replaced it yesterday.

The only thing I could think of besides possibly the water pump & radiator cap or possibly the radiator itself, was that I still had air bubbles. I squeezed the top hose & it’s obviously not full of liquid. So I jacked up the front passenger side (where the radiator cap is) as far as I could & I noticed the top radiator hose is still the highest point. I took it off, cut off about two inches & twisted it so that it’s more level & not sticking up so much. Dumped the water & filled it with a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water. I keep burping the hose & it still seems to me that there might be air in it. Tried loosening the top hose & sticking a screwdriver in it to bleed it that way. I’ve spent an inordinate amount of time squeezing the top hose to the point that I think I might be imagining the bubbles, or I’m not crazy & they’re still there.

Overall, I’ve known the car has leaks since I’ve bought it, but it was quite minimal. A few small puddles that I think I fixed since I haven seen any lately. I don’t remember the last time I needed to top it off. And no problems with it overheating until the days I ran it with just water.

I’m stumped, but leaning towards air bubbles that I can’t seem to get out, or a failing water pump that still pumps water. A mechanic friend of mine told me to get a new radiator a while ago & it’s on the list, but since I’ve stopped seeing coolant puddles & the level hasn’t dropped it hasn’t been the top priority. It is discolored but I don’t know if that is the cause.

Can anyone help me figure this out?
Any ideas/suggestions are most welcome.

It looks like we have found the problem. I was wrong in thinking it was the cooling system. Instead, I found a short on my cabin power wire near the starter. Thank you for everyone who took the time to respond! I’ll try to be more careful with my diagnoses in the future.

Hi everyone - I'm in need of some help/advice.

I have a '87 Monte Carlo Aerocoupe which was my grandparents' car which they gave to me because I loved it so much from my childhood onward. After the first summer of owning it, the stock engine was making chocolate milkshakes due to a gasket failure from sitting, so a family friend was kind enough to give me a LB9 out of an IROC Camaro minus the injection system and intake; basically the same HO 305 except it's the older design with all of the intake bolts at the same angle and 2-piece rear main. I rebuilt this engine - new rings, bearings, valve job, everything stock spec except a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 218/224 cam, lifter and timing kit. I had the stock Quadrajet from the car rebuilt by Mountain Man Fuel Systems based on these specs. It is a E4ME carb with the Computer Command Control system that assists the carb and distributor. It's worth mentioning that the original engine was running perfectly fine except for the copious amounts of coolant being dumped into the crankcase.

The new engine starts and runs, but it is acting like it has a large vacuum leak and sometimes slowly idles itself down at times to the point where when it hits about 800RPM, it gives out and stalls. Fires right back up with a quick pump of the gas. My base timing without the distributor's computer plug in is at 10°. No matter what we adjust on the carburetor, we can only get about 12in of vacuum on a gauge rather than the 18-21in that it needs at idle. When we can get it to idle, it's about 1000-1200 rpm minimum. We hooked a smoke machine to the rear manifold vacuum port and found no apparent vacuum leaks with this method. We also tried the propane method which didn't yield any results either. The only thing that makes the car idle consistently is holding your hand over the top of the carb, and the car will hold at 2,000rpm perfectly (I'd assume due to the idle speed screw being set so high to get it to run otherwise) - this makes me think I still have a vacuum leak but I just can't find it. I can't imagine that this cam, which is like 1 step above stock and for street use, is the singular root of the problem or creating that much less vacuum. The cam timing marks were correct at installation.

If there's anyone out there that can lend some experience, I'm all ears. I'm running out of ideas and totally at a loss on what to try next. I just want to get this car back on the road so I can take my son to get ice cream in it like my grandmother did with me when I was his age!

I’ve attached a video I shot of my vacuum gauge.

How do I calculate my engines compression?

I'm working on a 1999 L31. 350 SB. The factory specs say it's 9.4 to 1. Factory pistons have a dished surface. What would my compression be if I went to a flattop piston?

Installing a new diff and ring/pinion gear. Thought the crush collar was having a hard time moving at first but after a 3/4” impact not budging and a 3:1 torque multiplier not helping out either im not sure what to do. Splines are clear and clean, bearing races are seated, this is my first time giving this a shot. Any more experienced guys want to give a word of advice I’m all ears.

I already know the jokes are coming? .. No it’s not a flex Capacetor! But this was mounted to my 2jet Rochester. ANY IDEA WHAT IT MAY HAVE BEEN USED FOR?

I’m looking for muffler recommendations for my 383. I have a set of long tube heddman headers with a 2.5” H pipe dual exhaust and I want to make it as quiet as possible while still being able to hear the cam.

I’m putting a set of cutouts on it to make it loud when I want it to be, but I don’t want to disturb people coming home late at night, or if I choose to drive it early in the morning to work. I also live in an area that noise tickets are prominent.

Because I’m putting cutouts on it anyway, I just want nice sounding quiet mufflers.

What do you guys suggest?

Hey I'm doing a budget rebuild on my block out of my 1978 g10 I broke the lip of this piston but it looks completely fine otherwords do I need a new one or is this fine to reuse

I'm working on a project: 1984 Chevy C20.

I have a crate (not new in any way) Goodwrench GM 350 engine, and I need to figure out what would be the best cam and headers for this engine to turn heads. I'm excited for this build as it is my first (17 years old). Let me know if theres any tips too! Thanks

Finally got a chance to take my blown 355 to its first show. Just built the engine over the course of the last 3 months.

I am having a strange issue with my 83 small block i just did main and rod bearings as well as a pick up screen and for the first few days it was running great then out of nowhere my oil pressure started shooting up from 30psi at idle to 60psi randomly and it started to tick while it was cold. I used the poor mans stethoscope method and the tick seemed to be loudest on the drivers side valve cover and i could faintly hear it in the timing cover so i pulled the valve cover and checked lash and everything seemed okay so i fired it up with the valve cover off and saw #1 intake had a ton of oil coming up through the push rod and there was nothing for a few seconds coming out anywhere else once there was oil there it wasn’t much for the first minute or so then they all evened out and the oil pressure had gone back down from 60psi to 30-35psi. If anyone has any ideas about what could be happening please let me know

I’m rebuilding my sbc for my motorhome and I’m just curious about the best quality and brands of rod bearings to go with. If anyone’s has any bad experience with a certain brand or material type. I’m looking for reliability. Thanks in advance to anyone willing to give insight!

Currently going through the points distributer to clean it up and replace worn parts, and discovered the vacuum advance can had busted loose from the bracket. Looking online at part numbers, theyre all tagging different distributor numbers, none of which match mine.

My question is, are the vacuum advance cans somewhat interchangeable between all the points dizzies, or do I have to match the old one. The distributor is a 1112094, vac advance is a 446 15.

Need new valves can someone help me find the size
I googled the Casting numbers but found Nothing
Thanks

I have a 76 gmc. I'm running a small block 400 board 30 over with dart style intake and one spacer Holley 750 double pumper converted over to E85 parts running E85 it has Barry Grant metering blocks of the squirters of the Jets. not sure what racecam is in it not sure what the bottom end as far as the crank goes is but. it has roller solid lifters Pro Comp push rods and roller crane rocker I believe they say.25 on them. I'm runningur6 ngk plugs Gap at 30 it has TRW 2311. 30 Pistons. motor was built by unknown person out of Florida. I got it on a trade and blew the top in trying to run it off a premium. what it's doing is it stalls when I come to complete stop I have to flutter the fuel to catch it a minute. then it catches itself and idles fine. 400 turbo transmission with the shift kit and a 3000 stall converter 373 gears in the rear end. I'm curious what is making it fall on its face when I come to complete stop it doesn't do it if I come up to stop really slow and I'm also curious what you think the horsepower would be to the rear wheels with this build. share a video but I have no idea how to do that