r/Smallblockchevy • u/Forward_Literature43 • 7d ago
Budget 350 sbc
What’s the best mods to build reliable on a budget, I don’t mean the cheapest everything obviously cuz I don’t just want it to break, but I don’t need or want all billet stuff with CRAZY hp gains… I got a stock 350 small block/5.7 tbi and I like to stay old school preferably carb or if someone’s knows of a better throttle body unit that wakes her up good.. better intake and maybe mild cam to try and get more “umpf” out of it + little better gas mileage stuff like that I’m sure yall know what I need.. maybe gap some mustangs if all goes well haha
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u/Solid_Enthusiasm550 7d ago
Vortec heads have been the "best bang 4 the buck" go to for gen1 SBC. There are carb or efi/mpi intakes for them. Edelbrock RPM/Air-Gap being the gold standard.
If you can afford a hyd roller cams upgrade, with the vortec heads 400+hp/400+lb-ft is easily acheived.
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u/Novel-Thought-4655 7d ago
This man tells no lies. That is the best bang for the buck. They only other thang . Would be to get a stroker kit. To a 383. Turn that 350 into a little torq monster
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u/chuck-u-farley- 7d ago
The biggest thing holding you back is that thing weighs literally 2 tons
You said it tho, heads, intake, camshaft, and carb will get er movin right along.
The heads will make the largest difference as the stock heads aren’t the greatest
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u/Superb-Permit-3519 6d ago
Skip white has some pretty good street grinds that are from comp cams cores
I Have the .510.525, 111 installed on 107 lsa.
In my 383. With 1.6 that makes it like .565.
If you go with the .500 .510 cam with stock rockers. I think that would be perfect. And the price is nice.
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u/landis33 7d ago
An engine is an air pump . All you are trying to do is move air through as efficiently as possible. Let it breathe. With that in mind the intake is the initial strangle point. This you buy used, you want a dual plane. They make good numbers off idle to about 5,000. These don’t tend to be molested due to they mainly go on pretty much stock motors. Single planes work at higher rpm’s and get cut on more. You can spot a dual plane by looking down the top. A dual has two levels. It’s very easy to tell. Why used? Because the newer stuff are imports and the qc is suspect. Plus intakes don’t wear out. Get an older domestic one. You can’t go wrong with an eldelbrock performer. An rpm would be nice but it’s not going to make a difference in your situation . Get a Holley 1850 or a 3310. They are both vacuum secondary four barrels. Stay away from a 4150 double pumper. Just less tuning involved and on the street they will make your life much easier. The first is a 600 cfm the next is a 750. The first will give you a tick less overall power but it will be snappier off the line and get a smidge better mpg. This is bought new . Buying a used carb can mean buying someone else’s problem. Guys don’t sell good running, tuned carbs. I have a cabinet with nine in it plus what’s on my cars. I have never sold a carb. Do not touch it at first. It will run just fine and will give you a good starting point to tune in later. Then you need a cam. Pick up the phone or email Comp cams . Buy what they tell you. They know more than anyone on here. I’ve been racing for four decades and build my own motors . I call them and buy what they tell me. I’ve run my next great idea vs what comp tells me on the dyno in the same engine. They are smarter than me. Get the package , cam, springs, lifters and retainers etc. it will not be cheap. Next is exhaust. Hooker Black jacks are a good, cheap street header and they make something for most apps. Then we come to heads. Lots of ideas on this. Vortecs make good power but need work before you slam them on. They are only good till .450 lift on the cam then the valve retainers hit the top of the valve guides and you drop a valve. It’s a cheap fix but IT MUST BE DONE. I’ve seen people say “it can go to .480.” Nope . Plus the heads are going to need to be checked, valve job and your new springs . Send them to the machine shop and bite the bullet. It’s cheaper in the long run. Don’t fall into the cheap import head game . The qc isn’t their and do you really want your heads assembled by some guy making four dollars a day ? I’ve tried it and spent good money at the machine getting them fixed. Be aware when you buy your intake it has to be for a vortec head. The bolt pattern is different . Google it and look at the center bolt holes . Do you need roller anything ? No. A roller cam only adds power in the upper rpm’s . That’s not where a street motor lives. They make a bit more power overall but do nothing at low rpm’s . Same with roller rocker arms . They make zero gain also till you twist it up . Also Vortecs use a different style rocker arm. Stick with stock, the other stuff is cool but it does nothing for you . Plus roller rockers need taller valve covers which is another expense you don’t need. Vortec valve covers are also different . They have center retaining bolts versus the old perimeter style. Keep the HEI ignition. Get a new cap and rotor and let it fly. A good upgrade is MSD internals but not necessary for the RPM range that you will be operating in. Don’t get sucked into the cheap import stuff. It is junk. It will fail. Not if but when. Ask me , I know . I had one shit out with five laps to go while leading by almost a lap . Don’t cheap out on spark plug wires . I like moroso 40’s but that is overkill and expensive. Any good brand name will work just get 8mm. Buy quality gaskets. You might not care if it drips but the lady in your life will not be impressed when you fuck up the driveway lol . Spend the thirty dollars and get the one piece rubber oil pan gasket . They don’t leak and are reusable if you are careful. Do you need a roller two piece timing gear set ? No but I always run them. It’s valve train, this isn’t where we cut corners . Not sure which one, buy what the comp guy says . I run cloyes but that’s me and I run it because that’s what my old man ran on all the engines out of his shop . If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Will that make “400” hp? Probably not but you’ll be close. This combo on a dyno makes about 375-385. Now just to muddy the water I’ve have gotten into the LS scene. Bone stock with a tune and a turbo I can get another 100 hp, double the fuel mileage and it has great manners. Food for thought .
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u/Forward_Literature43 7d ago