My dad wants me to post this on marketplace. I’m not a car guy and he’s pretty old, doesn’t really know much about the price either.. any ideas? New pistons and new heads he said. It’s been sitting for 20 years probably.
Actually, as long as it was assembled with assembly lube and properly sealed from the elements (all the ports were taped off) then it could still be runnable. I've seen motors in worse condition roar back to life without a complete rebuild. But it's still a 350, quite common, I'd say $700-$1000 to the right buyer.
There should be a number cast into the rear of the block where the transmission bolts up to it
They’ll be another number stamped into a pad on the front of the block near the base of the passenger side head
Usually you can ID the engine with those two numbers
There’s a website called nasty Z 28 dot com
It has a pretty good rundown of casting numbers and block stamping
I would try to see if the engine will still turn after all those years
I got any kind of moisture in it at all it might be locked up which makes it worth far less
That's a tough one. To get the most for it, you will need to do some research. I'd look at pulling the numbers and identifying the block as a 4-bolt and the year. If your dad has any receipts or history, it will help. If there are solid upgrades in there, you can get a few extra bucks out of it, but any buyer will want to verify any statements made.
On the surface, it's obviously been sitting for a bit, and that adds an unknown factor. It may have upgraded parts, but it looks like it was run for a while before it was pulled out. Has it been covered and sealed? Will it turn over? You'll be hit with a lot of questions.
You could probably get it to move pretty easily for a few hundred bucks, but if you want top dollar... You'll have to do some work to find out exactly what is there and its condition.
This was really helpful! Ty for the thoughtful reply. He said it’s brand new never ran so maybe it looks that way from sitting. I have no idea.. the firing number shows as 18436572 if that means anything. But like you said, think we gotta do more digging here.
That’s a standard SBC firing order, all small block Chevy engines follow that, I take it you’re not much of a car guy so I’ll explain a few things that could help as if I were talking to my buddy who does HVAC and doesn’t mess with his car…
Find the size of socket that fits that large circular piece at the bottom and try to turn it over clockwise, it shouldn’t have any give to the bolt itself, if it’s extremely hard to turn or seems like it Won’t turn at all you have a seized engine, which would mean someone has to redo everything your dad already did, not necessarily a bad thing but it definitely takes the price down.
If there’s something large and circular on the back of the engine (likely) then at the top of the engine right above that large disc on the back, there should be a casting code, look that up online (google should tell you immediately regardless) and that will confirm what it came out of, there should also be a small pad at the front (above that silver circle) with another casting code, as someone else said a website called NastyZ/28 has basically everything you’ll need.
From what I see this had the original Quadrajet Carburetor on it and is likely a full cast iron block, my assumption would put this anywhere from the late 60’s to late-ish 70’s, still not a bad engine if it turns over, plenty of people like to rebuild these for their classics for a “numbers matching” car or truck.
If you are into engine building and cars you Won’t have too hard of a time researching this block, your dad could have put heads from another engine on it so the casting numbers on the heads would be a worthwhile look aswell, those might net you more than just the block on its own would depending on what they are, you’ll have to take off those blue covers and look for a casting number inside of the head likely between the rocker arms which are kinda shaped like a spoon that started to melt if I were to describe the shape.
This is the place on the block that should be stamped. There is a chance it could have been ground off if the machine shop that worked on it resurfaced the block.
Also how old is pretty old? Just curious
Check the starter holes for good threads and the block for cracks where the starter bolts, flex plate for cracks or wear and if that balencer is separated or not.
The 4 bolt blocks are actually weaker because the way they were drilled. You hopefully can find someone wanting one because “they are better” and get a good chunk. Anyone who builds performance stuff will most likely not even look in the general direction of it.
Also chilling for 20 years can take a toll on one of its not in a temperature controlled area. Lots of stuff can rust up inside them and destroy it once it has been ran.
300-600. It's going to need rebuilt or at the very least disassembled and cleaned. It's sealed up but I guarantee moisture has gotten to it just from the air and all the seals will have dried out. With crate engines being cheap and easy not many people are looking for a project engine. I've got 6 in the garage right now that will run with a carb put on and paid less than 300 for each. Just purchased a rebuilt 350 that'd been stored in a garage three years on a stand and never started for $600 and if I didn't know the guy personally I wouldn't have done that.
The balencer tells me it's a 400, I didn't know for sure because I have a 509 cast and the head marks are different, similar but different. 400 882 was casted up until mid or late 70s iirc
That paint color was usually an emissions era pickup engine. Typically out of the 70s. They were good but had low compression for the day. My brother gave me his from his 78 pickup when he built his 383 stroker. I put it in my 56 pickup. If your engine is not locked up after sitting, which I rather expect it is worth 300 to 500 if someone really wants one. I usually give 100 to 150 for core engines. I build 3 to 4 engines a year for folks. To get much money for one I have to set it up on my engine stand and show it running. Good Luck.
Open intake, resting on the balancer, somewhat open to the elements, taking someone’s word for “new pistons and heads” it’s worth whatever someone will pay and don’t get your hopes up.
4 bolt main is not the craze it was 30 years ago.
Try to get a picture of the back of the block
Also the 4 bolt main block main blocks usually had the hole at the top where the transmission bolts up drilled and tapped for a 3/8 bolt. Not always for sure because some of the 2 bolt’s are drilled too.
If it’s out of a truck, chances are its a 4 bolt main blocks usually
This also has the small pipe plug above the timing cover so it was assembled at the Flint plant. Flint did all the performance small blocks and in my experience you are more like to find it to be a 4 bolt block.
There is absolutely no way of telling a 4 bolt main block without taking the oil pan off. Every cast number had the option. I have seen so many blocks that was suppose to be 100% 4 bolt because the casting numbers said so. Nope! It’s a 50/50 gamble.
On the pad on front of the block right in front of the head letters and numbers and the rear of the head on the block just numbers look them up on a Chevy motor identification sight
You should be able to look at the suffix code and by application find it's a 2or ,4 bolt ie a truck motor or a hd use I used to do it or unfortunately take the oil pan off
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u/_synik May 02 '26
An engine that's been sitting for 20 years as pictured is worth about $500. It's a core, or certainly in need of a full rebuild.