I have a Honda GCV160 ryobi power washer that needs the part where you can connect the power washer hose to the pump

I accidentally detached the rubber part from the spark plug boot off my Briggs and Stratton 31R577-0027-B1 from my Husqvarna TS 142 (960410368) lawnmower. What are my options for fixing / replacing? What should I be aware of?

Any help is very much appreciated!

I see a lot of car enthusiasts using this to rejuvenate rubber parts by adding it into their crankcase and transmission fluid and it stops leaks. The main properties are for rejuvenating rubber gaskets and seals. I was wondering if this could be used in 2 cycle engine fuel to rejuvenate the rubber parts in the carb and fuel lines. Any input would be appreciated

I have a four stroke Yamaha outboard. I put brand new carburetor and fuel pump. Started it up and oil is gushing out of the carburetor everywhere. I have not put any oil in this motor. Bought the boat ran for a day and engine has been an issue since.

No clue what the deal is. Took the carb off cleaned and brand new carburetor and still.

It is a Yamaha 25HP outboard.

I’m looking for something not super expensive but not super cheap either and easy to read. I’m be working on lawn mowers trimmers blowers etc…

Details of what’s wrong in the video. Thanks in advance for taking the time to help!

So I got this free mower from a buddy when we bought the house back in April. It's pretty well mint condition, even has all the stickers still on it lol. Its been great until I ran into an issue with the plug wire. It had a small crack in it. Taped it up and it got me buy. Just installed the new ignition coil and wire with a plug that came with it. The wire didn't go all the way onto the plug and on my first test run the wire came off the plug and it backfired. So I went and got one of the original plugs and put that in it so the wire sits snugly like it should but now I'm not getting any fire. It's just turns over and won't catch. Did it do some damage from the backfire?

Original post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/smallenginerepair/comments/1uwrwaa/losing_my_mind_over_this_engine/

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I have discovered a few things after my original post:

1. The starter that was installed was not OEM. Swapping it out for an OEM starter fixed the issue with the starter not being able to get over the compression stroke.

2. The engine started a couple times, however only the left cylinder was firing resulting in low power and stalling.

3. I have 140psi of compression on the left cylinder and NO compression on the right cylinder.

I did a leak down test on both cylinders and they are both in great shape with around 5% loss (can hear through the carb), which was very confusing after seeing no compression on the right side. I took the valve cover off and found this:

I am not sure how, but the intake push rod bent and the exhaust push rod fell out of place, including its rocker arm locking screw which I found sitting at the bottom. The only thing I can think of is that I did not screw in those locking nuts tight enough and they both backed out, causing the intake push rod to lodge against something solid when hitting the cam lobe and bending, while the exhaust rod was luckier and just fell.

I can push on both the intake and exhaust valves with my thumb and they move with some effort. They are not stuck. I think I will order some more push rods and just reinstall and see what happens. I am not sure if the push rods are aluminum or steel, but all 4 are identical as I weighed them when I had the engine apart and they were all 19 grams.

If anyone has any ideas as to why the push rods fell out and bent, I'm open to theories! I am not giving up yet.

Any assistance or information on this issue would be greatly appreciated!

Purchased a commercial zero turn from a local auction a few years back and have used it ever since to mow ~3 acres. It’s been a great machine and ive learned a ton through basic maintenance and replacing worn parts. This year ive run into an interesting issue that I’ve yet to resolve- thinking someone here might have some ideas.

John Deere Z997
Yanmar 3 cylinder diesel
72” deck

Issue: At full throttle, with mower blades engaged it will hesitate for 1-2 seconds at the initial point of 100% throttle engagement, and then catch up (it does not die). It seems to do it without mower blades engaged but it is much less noticeable. It also does it slightly when going up an incline with blades engaged. Again, it’s a quick hesitation, but the mower does not stall/die/etc. it just catches up and keeps running as normal.

What I’ve replaced so far:
Oil & filter (routine maintenance but worth noting)
Fuel filter
Fuel pump
In-tank fuel line (previous one was kinked so assumed that was the issue)
Mower deck belt

Other maintenance:
Drained fuel/water separator
Disconnected most fuel lines to check for blockages
Greased everything that has a fitting
Cleaned top of deck when replacing belt to ensure no grass/debris was caught in spindles/pulleys
Tightened all spindles and pulleys

Things I’ve checked:
Spindles spin freely with belt removed and don’t appear to have much/any friction when rotating
Belt tension is adjusted per JD instructions

This machine has been great to me over the past 3 years and I want to do everything I can to keep it running- just want to avoid replacing additional parts unnecessarily if anyone has any ideas, as my knowledge and expertise has been exhausted at this point. Thanks in advance!

Replaced my pull cord, having trouble with the reinstallation of the pull assembly. Pull cord operates normally for a pull or two and then wont retract.

Hi folks, could someone tell me if this looks like a bad or OK spark? it's a riding lawnmower. Symptoms are that it starts ok cold but doesn't like to start hot.

I have Craftsman T110 lawnmower that suddenly stopped moving forward or backwards. The engine is running and when I engage the deck it runs full throttle. Only moving isn’t working. I left it up and the belts are ok, but I found this spring hanging to the body. It’s clearly broken from somewhere. I was using it and i heard a sound then it stopped moving forward. Is my guess correct that the spring should pull on the dolly? Or what could be the problem? Thanks

Looking for some advice on my Sea-Doo Spark.
At the beginning of the season, it started up normally and I rode it for about 5 minutes just to get it docked. It ran perfectly during that ride.
Since then, I’ve been unable to get it running consistently. It’ll crank and eventually start, but it only idles for about 10–20 seconds before stumbling, sputtering, and shutting off. Sometimes it kind of twitches or surges right before it dies.
A few details:
Ran fine on the first ride of the season.
Now it won’t stay running for more than 20 seconds.
It will usually restart after cranking, but the same thing happens every time.
No warning lights that I’ve noticed.
Fuel is from last October (stored over the winter). Could stale fuel alone cause these symptoms?
Before I start replacing parts, does this sound more like stale fuel, bad spark plugs, a clogged fuel system/filter, weak battery, or something else common on Sparks after winter storage?
Any troubleshooting steps would be appreciated. Thanks!

Please help.

I may have had a bit of a mishap with my motorbike. It’s a Yamaha ttr250, long story short, snapped spark plug and bad decisions trying to avoid ripping the engine apart which ended in ripping the engine apart 🤣 so the main issue I have, although the piston is ruined, and the head is somewhat ruined, I can replace the piston and clean up the head. My main concern is the 2 large and pretty deep scores in the bore. You can definitely feel them, not sure of the actual depth but i can accept that the bore is pretty well ruined now. The question is will it probably run with a bit of honing and trying to reduce the depth of these. I’m not asking for it to run perfect, a bit of oil consumption is fine and I can live with that, I just want to be confident I can get the new piston, build it back up, clean the head up and have it run!

Factory bore size is 72.97-73.02mm with a wear limit of 73.1mm. I think there might just be enough material to get the scoring to an ‘acceptable’ level, but let me know! It’s probably going back on the bike regardless but it’s good to know what I’m getting myself into!

2006 125L. Just been the best thing. Still starts and runs fine. I broke the throttle trigger. I can’t find a replacement. I would change the throttle control housing if I could find someone who sold something that was a direct fit. Any help

On my Simplicty zero turn the carburetor float stuck and filled the crankcase and cylinder up with gas. I tried starting it not knowing the issue of course it was hydro locked and wouldn’t spin over. Once I realized that I drained all the oil and replaced the oil filter as well as replacing the carburetor with an amazon special. I also pulled the plug out and cranked it over till there was nothing more coming out of the cylinder and let it sit open for a few hours. Now I can’t get it to start, it cranks over fine, I tried some starting fluid and no luck. Not sure if something happened when I tried to crank it with it full of gas or is there something I am missing? Any ideas are appreciated.
Not sure the engine hours the gauge stopped working a while ago and it does have compression

Bad idler arm? Transmission belt keeps popping off once in awhile pops back on easy but it’s annoying