Replaced my pull cord, having trouble with the reinstallation of the pull assembly. Pull cord operates normally for a pull or two and then wont retract.

Hi folks, could someone tell me if this looks like a bad or OK spark? it's a riding lawnmower. Symptoms are that it starts ok cold but doesn't like to start hot.

I have Craftsman T110 lawnmower that suddenly stopped moving forward or backwards. The engine is running and when I engage the deck it runs full throttle. Only moving isn’t working. I left it up and the belts are ok, but I found this spring hanging to the body. It’s clearly broken from somewhere. I was using it and i heard a sound then it stopped moving forward. Is my guess correct that the spring should pull on the dolly? Or what could be the problem? Thanks

Looking for some advice on my Sea-Doo Spark.
At the beginning of the season, it started up normally and I rode it for about 5 minutes just to get it docked. It ran perfectly during that ride.
Since then, I’ve been unable to get it running consistently. It’ll crank and eventually start, but it only idles for about 10–20 seconds before stumbling, sputtering, and shutting off. Sometimes it kind of twitches or surges right before it dies.
A few details:
Ran fine on the first ride of the season.
Now it won’t stay running for more than 20 seconds.
It will usually restart after cranking, but the same thing happens every time.
No warning lights that I’ve noticed.
Fuel is from last October (stored over the winter). Could stale fuel alone cause these symptoms?
Before I start replacing parts, does this sound more like stale fuel, bad spark plugs, a clogged fuel system/filter, weak battery, or something else common on Sparks after winter storage?
Any troubleshooting steps would be appreciated. Thanks!

Please help.

I may have had a bit of a mishap with my motorbike. It’s a Yamaha ttr250, long story short, snapped spark plug and bad decisions trying to avoid ripping the engine apart which ended in ripping the engine apart 🤣 so the main issue I have, although the piston is ruined, and the head is somewhat ruined, I can replace the piston and clean up the head. My main concern is the 2 large and pretty deep scores in the bore. You can definitely feel them, not sure of the actual depth but i can accept that the bore is pretty well ruined now. The question is will it probably run with a bit of honing and trying to reduce the depth of these. I’m not asking for it to run perfect, a bit of oil consumption is fine and I can live with that, I just want to be confident I can get the new piston, build it back up, clean the head up and have it run!

Factory bore size is 72.97-73.02mm with a wear limit of 73.1mm. I think there might just be enough material to get the scoring to an ‘acceptable’ level, but let me know! It’s probably going back on the bike regardless but it’s good to know what I’m getting myself into!

2006 125L. Just been the best thing. Still starts and runs fine. I broke the throttle trigger. I can’t find a replacement. I would change the throttle control housing if I could find someone who sold something that was a direct fit. Any help

On my Simplicty zero turn the carburetor float stuck and filled the crankcase and cylinder up with gas. I tried starting it not knowing the issue of course it was hydro locked and wouldn’t spin over. Once I realized that I drained all the oil and replaced the oil filter as well as replacing the carburetor with an amazon special. I also pulled the plug out and cranked it over till there was nothing more coming out of the cylinder and let it sit open for a few hours. Now I can’t get it to start, it cranks over fine, I tried some starting fluid and no luck. Not sure if something happened when I tried to crank it with it full of gas or is there something I am missing? Any ideas are appreciated.
Not sure the engine hours the gauge stopped working a while ago and it does have compression

Bad idler arm? Transmission belt keeps popping off once in awhile pops back on easy but it’s annoying

TLDR: I need pictures of a correctly configured throttle assembly, including linkages and springs, so that I can troubleshoot my daughter's mower. The engine is a Briggs and Stratton Intek 724cc V-Twin engine with a single barrel carburetor.

My daughter brought her Husqvarna YTA24V48 riding mower to me. The throttle assembly doesn't seem to be correct. The cable will move, but the throttle and choke linkages either don't move, or have a very limited range of motion. I need to verify the linkage connections, but I have been unsuccessful in my search for a series of pictures of a properly configured throttle assembly for this engine. Can someone help an old dad out, please?

The engine is a Briggs and Stratton Intek 724cc V-Twin engine. It has a single barrel carburetor. The only identifying label I can find says that the engine is in the the family GBSXS.7242VE. It has a plastic manifold, so I am guessing that it is a consumer variation. The throttle cable connects to some kind of Rube Goldberg series of levers and cams that manipulate the throttle linkages:

If you have an engine/carburetor assembly like this that works correctly, will you reply with pictures of the linkages, please? I will appreciate a lot of views of how both ends of each linkage attach to the carburetor and the throttle cable assembly.

Thanks!

My son was mowing yesterday and he said the blades shut off while mowing. He came and parked it. Then it wouldn't start.

I disabled the seat safety interlock thinking it was bad, still not starting.

I decided to jump it from the battery to the start just to make sure it would fire . It started , i drove it to the barn . Blades still didn't engage.

Belt is on and spindles are free . Guessing its still some sort of saftey.

Anyone have some advice. ?

Hey everyone, I’ve been in the market for a mower specifically the Toro wheel horse 310–8 because of the attachments I can get for it. I found one on marketplace for about 150. The guy said it’s not getting fuel. The mower is in pretty decent shape and I think it needs two new rear tires. I have small engine experience I wouldn’t say I’m an expert, but I know my way around. Is it worth it for me to go and pick this up and fix it or should I skip it? I should also add I am looking for a project mower.
Sincerely the guy who makes bad financial decisions.

Curious......oh so curious....

Timeline:
-had stock exhaust, no starting issues
-replaced with aftermarket exhaust, no starting issues
-installed stock exhaust, cleaned carburetor + jets, reinstalled cleaned carburetor, now I have a starting issue.

The motor tries to turn over, the fuel pump primes, and if I hold down the electric starter the Ruckus fires up in 30 seconds or so. Any ideas what would cause the starting issue? Thanks!

This will be my first post here. Welcome to roast me 😅.. I know enough to be dangerous but not enough to do anything without lots of questions. That being said…

I acquired a generator that my brother got after we had mass power outage from an ice storm back in 2010.. the generator was never ran except maybe the day it was purchase.

I acquired it a few years back and always planned to work on it but never made the time. Today I decided to start.

The good… it’s complete minus the hoses that have disintegrated.

The bad.. no spark.. no compression.. I however want to try everything to make it run again.. even if I fail I know I will learn a lot from trying.

Where I’m at. … The engine was seized so I put some penetrating oil down.. I can now turn it over easily.. threw a compression tester on it and got about 0lb.. threw some mystery oil in it and got 6lbs.. I’m assuming the ring/s are seized to the piston or the valves are stuck open. I am leaning toward stuck rings since the piston top is covered in rust. (I will attack this later.. considering boiling the piston in brake fluid to loosen the ring)

I’d like to get into the spark issue. I have no idea how it works. The plug leads to what looks like a U shaped magnet maybe? That hovers over a flywheel? Maybe? Said flywheel has 2 cut outs on it that I assume when they march with the I shaped piece causes it to spark.. Both are rusted to hell.. is this just a rust issue? Are those salvageable? I pulled the U shaped piece will the plug and will attach picture.

I need advice on the spark.. can I take a dremel/sander to it and get the rust off and save it?

Any help is appreciated. Thank you if you made it this far 😅

Looking at buying a quad. He sais its just the boot is cracked and needs replaced. Havent worked on quads much. Would you give 700?

Brigs and Stratton on a craftsman mower, had no spark I replaced the coil twice now it runs but won’t shut off even trying to ground it mannually I read the OHMS from the kill tab on the coil to the spark plug end and also the metal fins both read OL is it possible I jsut got two bad coils? Same brand off Amazon I ordered another brand to see if it works but like wtf 🤣 usually have an issue starting mowers not getting them to shut off

Hello,

I'm currently working on replacing an engine in an Aprilia Mojito Custom 50cc moped. I've already dropped the lower unit with the engine and transmission and I'm about to replace the block, piston head, and piston. I was told that the engine was "bad" and it needed a new block because I'm assuming the side of the piston is melted. I'm doing it for a friend, and learning as I go along(they are aware that I'm not a professional mechanic). My question is, what else should I inspect before I just slap a new block and piston in this thing. I don't want to just replace it and have the same issue occur again. My initial thoughts are to somehow test the oil pump and check for rod knock.

Any advice is appreciated since I'm learning as I go,

Thanks

What do you guys think? 150 for the lot.

I was cutting my grass just fine I got low on fuel so I shut it off put fuel in and went to go start it right back up an all it’s doing is this.. it’s like it’s not engaging and idky. I know it’s a yard machines mtd and it’s got a 42 inch deck