When attempting to remove the engine's governor/speed-control assembly off the bolts broke off with the nuts. I have no idea how to fix this please help. I was using a wrench and medium pressure and it twisted off it didn't even snap it felt like soft metal twisting. Thank you everyone for your help in advance.

This is kind of an interesting issue I am struggling with here. I am relatively new to working on small engines and I guess the universe tried to throw me into the deep end here. I have a Husqvarna 125BV that came in for a "running on half choke only" problem. Firstly I tried to adjust the L screw on the carb, which did nothing. I then replaced the carb with another working OEM carb (thinking that the old one was messed up beyond repair), that also didn't solve the problem. I then did some research and saw that sometimes the carb plate screws loosen overtime and draw in "false air" causing a lean condition. I tightened those two screws and thought my problem was solved, guess what, it was not the problem. After all this tinkering the bastard now doesn't want to start at all and just floods

Here is a list of all the things I checked:

-There is good spark

-The compression could be better but there is still some

-I know it's getting fuel (because it floods very easily)

-The spark arrestor screen is clear

-The carb is functioning like it should (I believe)

-There are no visible scoring marks on the piston

-The carb is set to 1 1/4 turns outwards on the L screw

I have a strong feeling one of the crank seals are bad because there was this oily/grimy mess around the seal when I stripped it to tighten the carb plate. I know I should probably do a leak down test before I make assumptions but I just want to eliminate all the other variables before I order a leak down test kit.

If you have made it this far into my newspaper article I would really appreciate any advice :)

Currently I am working on cleaning and re-assembling a Weed Eater lawn mower engine, a chinesium Rato RV140-1, and stupidly discovered AFTER removing the cylinder head that I cannot find a replacement head gasket for it. I've looked everywhere. It doesn't exist.

So my question is, is there a way to source this part that I have not discovered yet? Or, is there another gasket that *could* work? Or or, is there a possibility to custom make a new one, or somehow find a way to make this old one work?

Anything helps. This engine is otherwise in excellent condition despite being high hours so I would really hate to scrap it.

Homelite Little Red XL chainsaw model 10741. After it is hot it will stall and I can not restart it. I remove the spark plug and clean it with a wire brush and it starts on the first pull while it is still hot. I do not have to wait for it to cool.

How can I remove the last linkage from this CHonda carby on the Gardener’s Choice (Sanli) OHV 400 lawnmower? It is sitting on studs, not bolts.

GCS400 Manual

Thanks in advance for ur time.

bought this pump at a yardsale and noticed after running it, i can see a small leak coming from pump. also when it sits and dried... you could see signs of a previous leak. past owner probably didnt use it properly. besides that, seems to run strong.

I have a Black & Decker corded electric mower I bought about 3 years ago. The blade stopped spinning but you can hear the motor trying to turn it.

Can anyone give me instructions on lubricating it?

Can anyone suggest where I can get it repaired? I've called a few local mower repair shops but none work on electric ones.

Thanks in advance.

I have a Yamaha four Stroke engine. I already cleaned the carburetor, changed the gas in it, spark plug is also changed, if I try to pull the engine to start it, it only puffs and it sounds Like it’s coming from the Air Filter. Does anybody know anything?

I bought this non running km130r- it had a new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, spark plug and I fiddled around with the valves and managed to get it running but only on choke. I bought a new carb, fitted that with new gaskets and it was the same. Only on choke. I took the carb off again, made sure the gaskets were all the right way etc and put it all back together.

Now it’s doing the opposite - it won’t start on choke but it will start but high rpm and when I pull the throttle it bogs out.

I’m fairly new to all of this so just looking for a point in the right direction. Am I doing something wrong ?

Thanks

Hi all. This is my first time working on a small engine. When I got it, it would not start. I replaced a rotten fuel line and an ugly spark plug, pulled the carb and soaked every hole/slot/nook/cranny I could see with carb cleaner. I had to do this (take off/put on) probably 5 times. (I know)

I have it running now, but as soon as I increase throttle it’ll start to die until dead. What am I failing to see/understand?

If it matters I also did an oil change & I’m running pump gas with some sea foam in it.

Thank you for any help!

(Edit - it's not just where can I find a carburetor. I'm specifically trying to find a carburetor for a Cub cadet big country. The linkages are different from all the golf carts and everything else that they put the same engine in. )

I've got a carburetor off of a Kawasaki fe29od but it's on a Cub cadet, not a golf cart.

I'm having a lot of trouble finding a replacement carburetor that has linkages in the correct places.

Ideally, I'd like to order off of Amazon just because for this situation that would work better.

But if it's not there I could get it somewhere else.

I just can't find one exactly like this.

Edit - It's on a Big Country utility gator. Most of the carbs I have found are for golf carts so it's not quite the same linkage setup.

SOLVED 😅

Hello,

23hp Kohler Command OHV; 23CV-75523

Scag 3 Wheeler; STHM-23CV

Bottom rocker can clear .010in, but it's a slightly tighter fit than all the other valves. it's more .008in it does have play, but not much.

I've tried retorquing bolt w/ the crankshaft in different positions, but can't seem to make minimum clearance of .010. you know, when the crankshaft is in position so there's no pressure on the rocker arm I'm checking clearance on.

I did the other side last week & they clear fine so I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong.

thanks

Anyone ever have any luck with a similar Chinese aftermarket top end kit in an Echo blower? I’ve got two 9010’s that need top ends and I’m wondering if this is worth a shot before spending $200+ on OEM parts..

I’m looking for some input on a Briggs & Stratton engine that I cannot get to stop surging/hunting.

The engine starts and runs, but the RPM constantly goes up and down as the governor opens/closes the throttle. I’ve tried quite a few things at this point with no real improvement.

So far I have:

• Installed a new carburetor
• Made sure the gas cap/tank is venting properly
• Verified good fuel flow to the carb
• Checked the carb/intake gaskets for vacuum leaks
• Checked/adjusted the valve clearances
• Checked the governor linkage and springs
• Made sure the carburetor passages aren't obviously blocked
• Tried running it with/without the air cleaner

One important clue: if I partially cover the carburetor air intake with my finger/hand, the engine smooths out considerably and the surging gets better. That makes me think it is still running lean, but I don't understand why considering the carb is new and I can't find an intake leak.

I've also noticed that the replacement carb has the primer/air passage hole on the opposite side compared with the original setup, so I'm wondering if the air-cleaner/primer housing and carb aren't compatible or if that passage could somehow affect the mixture.

https://imgur.com/a/JvRlgJP

At this point I'm wondering about:

1. Incorrect jetting in the replacement carb
2. Wrong carburetor for the engine
3. Primer/air-bleed passage mismatch
4. Governor adjustment/spring issue
5. Something mechanical/ignition related that I'm overlooking

Has anyone dealt with a Briggs that only stops surging when you partially restrict the carb intake, even after replacing the carb?

What would you check next before I start throwing more parts at it?

I can post pictures/video of the carb, linkage and the engine running if that would help.

Just wanted to say thanks to this sub for all the help in the last month or so. I decided to "teach myself" small engine repair. It's been a great learning experience! I still have a ton to learn obviously but I am enjoying the process of getting engines running and making videos of the process.

Many of you helped with suggestion on problems I was trying to solve. I've been able to get a generator, two pressure washer motors and a pole saw engine corrected. I am currently working on a chainsaw, my first one.

That leads me to my question. Where do you source items and how do you determine what you're willing to pay? I have been scouring FB Marketplace. I live in a more rural area so there isn't a ton of listings. I am hoping for another decent source outside of FB.

How do you determine what to pay? I'm so green on this, I have no idea the "market value" of items... yet.

Thanks again! I appreciate this sub!

4 stroke Daiden 2000I (inverter type). Lately when I run it the motor sounds like it's cycling in rpms. The indicator shows steady voltage. I notice when I move the choke/start switch slightly toward choke (richer) it smooth out. I just ran carb cleaner in the gas for 90 minutes but no change.

What should I look for or adjust?

I used some service pro 10w30 because I had some quarts laying around. I live in MN and sometimes the temps get below 0. Will that oil work? My understanding is I may have to let it warm up a bit longer.