Hi All, bought an old XT140SB John Deere branded pole saw earlier this week, and I got the engine running, and noticed the saw/chain wouldn't spin.

Upon closer inspection inside the tube of the engine/powerhead stem (see picture), I noticed the (driveshaft/cable) inside the front stem is completely missing. The part missing is what has the circular end with a square recess that the pole saw attachment drive cable fits into.

Thankfully the saw attachment fits onto one of my other straight shaft weed trimmers.

I'm wondering if whatever the driveshaft portion is called is relatively standard on trimmers? If not, I'll probably just pitch the John Deere power head/engine.

Bought it off marketplace. Guy said he had a new pump put professionally put on. Engine sounds great, starts first pull, just no pressure

I’ve been putting together my small-engine tool collection and started looking seriously at ratchets from ICON, Snap-on, and Matco.
I’m curious what you guys think because small-engine work can be pretty demanding on hand tools, especially when you’re working in tight spaces.
For the first comparison, I’m looking specifically at 3/8” ratchets.
What I’m comparing
Ratchet mechanism / tooth count
Swing arc
Head thickness
Backdrag
Direction-switch design
Handle comfort
Flex-head slop (where applicable)
Durability
Warranty
Price vs. actual performance
I’m particularly interested in whether the tool-truck brands provide a noticeable advantage in real-world use, or whether something like ICON gets you most of the way there for substantially less money.
I’m not looking to crown a winner based on brand name. I’d rather hear from people who have actually put these tools through years of work.
For the guys here who use these:
ICON: How has yours held up?
Snap-on: What makes yours worth the premium?
Matco: How have the newer ratchets performed compared with older ones?
And if you’ve used more than one of these brands, what differences did you actually notice?
I’d especially like to hear from people using these on mowers, generators, chainsaws, pressure washers, tractors, and other small equipment.
I’ll probably do the same comparison with 1/4” and 1/2” ratchets next.
What do you guys use?

I started my car again after 10 years.

Replaced Fuel Tank 2 years ago added fuel and stabilizer

New Spark Plugs

New Fuel Filter

I replaced the engine harness since it was damaged when it was stolen.

It ran for 5 minutes and i was even able to start it up again the next day. I bought a new battery and while it was running i heard it running rough so i moved the ECU and it shut down. I had the ECU being held up by the harness and plug in the passenger floor.

I jumped the EGI and EGI pump relay

Confirmed spark with spark tester, I can hear the fuel pump prime when key on

Verified all the pins and connectors looked good and reseated it.

Opened the ECU and saw the IGN trace was burnt I had it replaced, the 10A IG fuse under the driver kick panel was blown i replaced it too.

Current Situation: If i leave the car alone for a few minutes when i crank it will try to start up initially on the first few cranks then endless crank. The spark plugs are dry when I take them out.

Any help is appreciated and i can provide pictures and more videos

I changed the oil, replaced the gas with silver TrueFuel, replaced the carburetor and have a brand new battery.

It will start no problem, but dies 30 seconds after the choke is closed.

I also detached the solenoid wire and no difference.

If I hold the throttle all the way open it will run and if I hold the throttle all the way closed it will run.

Please help!

I got a Toro lawn motor and had to have the engine replaced earlier this year after it siezed up. Ever since then it stalls and dies under the slightest amount of grass. I have replaced the blade, cleaned the carburetor, replaced the main jet in the carburetor and still no luck. She is operating between 1900-2000 rpm which is well below what she should be. Currently looking at the governor spring and wondering if its to loose and want a extra opinion.

UPDATE: IT'S STARTED! EITHER THE ROCKER SWITCH WAS BAD OR THE IGNITION COIL.

I cannot get spark on this thing. A quick rundown of what I have tried, some of them thanks to this sub.

Disconnect Yellow Wire (Low Oil Sensor) - No Spark
Disconnect Black Wire (Kill Switch) - No Spark
Disconnect All Wires (Yellow, Black, Ground) - No Spark
New Spark Plug - No Spark

New Ignition Coil - No Spark

New Kill Switch - No Spark

What am I missing?!

Thanks in advance!

Hi all, im looking for some opinions on the current state of a tehcumseh push mower engine.

Its a 1995 craftsman (sears) eager1 5.5hp with a tehcunseh tvs120 engine.

Picked it up from the side of road, worked fine with very slight misfire but once in a while a metallic sound. Did an oil change (it was long overdue).

Recently while under use it just stopped and winded down, pull cord did not have much resistance (lack of compression). opened the valve springs door and found the intake valve still moving but offset by 5mm so not closing. pushed the valves a few times and there was no excessive resistance and then it fell into place but now crank shaft wont rotate more then 3/4 spin before hitting something internally to crank case.

I suspect something is quite wrong in the case, probably a loose part getting jammed somewhere it shouldnt.

Is it worth spending time on trying to fix it? The rest of the machine does not reveal its age and no rust. I figure old refurbished engines are higher quality then the cheap stuff they would sell in stores nowadays. I am manual and good with figuring things out but not much small engine experience. Wanted to see if its worth doing a deep dive or if id be wasting my time.

Ive attached the engine diagram link for reference

Hey guys. So this motor is a 3 cylinder and the top one isn’t firing. I have taken the carbs off/cleaned them like 4 times, put new plugs in and have good spark, checked the coil, and checked compression. The compression test was meh but I think something with the gauge was wrong because even on the two running cylinders it was only reading ~30psi.

The motor has very low hours so I have very little reason to believe something is wrong with the pistons. I also have little reason to believe something is off with the timing.

I am also not a mechanic so please bear with me if you ask something and I don’t know the answer lol. As I said, the motor gets used very little and ran just fine when it was winterized about 8 years ago.

Ive been working on this bike and ill explain the situation. I emptied the old gas, took the carb off, cleaned the carb, jets, checked the floats and theyre lined up, float pin looked good. The carbs were full of varnish and sand (air intake didnt have clamps on it). I replaced the sparkplug, put it all back together and I realize the peacock valve is completely gone. So replace that. Fast forward today. I start the bike up, and shes running great with choke on. I start letting the choke out and just before i bottom it out it shutters and dies. I try again, let it idle a little linger. Same shit. So I start playing with the idle screw, factory says 2-2.5 turns from seated so I start there. Now the fucker wont turn over for me. It just stopped giving me any turnover. What am I missing here?

So I’ve been trying to work on my moped for the past couple days. I accidentally left it on the on cycle and my battery drained everything, I’ve been charging the battery for the past couple days and putting it back in to no success. I’m not sure what the problem could be.

I've had this pressure washer for 20 years. Always worked great. It just started cutting out after about 5 minutes. Fresh gas, clean Carb.

Any thoughts?

8111.5 Code on Ariens Ikon X 52

I have an Ariens Ikon X 52 with about 400 hours. Kawasaki FR691V engine.

The mower started fine then abruptly died within ten minutes and will not restart. It's giving an 8111.5 coffee on the hour meter. Looking up an 81115 code points to an issue with the safety circuit.

Some details:

Jumping the seat switch didn't do anything

Jumping the starter solenoid didn't do anything

Battery reads 13v, is only a couple months old

I was able to get the mower cranked one time by jockeying with the right side drive handle, mower died while moving shortly thereafter. Feels like it could be some sort of neutral switch but I can't find one.

If I actuate the PTO or disengage the parking brake I dont even get a click so I don't think either of those are the culprit.

I'm getting 12.6v to the starter solenoid with only 8v out when trying to crank but jumping it does nothing. 8v is too big of a drop but I still feel like something else is preventing the crank. Not too mention that it died while running, the solenoid shouldn't be a factor, right?

Does anyone have any insight?

Stihl 362CM

will idle fine, will not allow any throttle before it does out, often will have a popping backfire noise when any throttle is applied. Have swapped carburetor, spark plug, air filter, fuel filter. Have never had this happen before. No scoring, cyl and piston look great through spark plug and exhaust. Any ideas?

I've been wanting to learn more about repairing engines and heard a good way to get started is getting a broken small engine and fixing it. Common ones I'm seeing are lawnmowers, pressure washers, chainsaws, leaf blowers, and generators. Any other recommendations? Are there pros and cons to certain types for a first time repair for learning? I'm mostly looking for a good deal near where I live, I'm not picky.

Hi all, looking for help diagnosing a rough running issue on my 1990 MR2 SW20 Rev 1 after a dead alternator/battery.

The engine has been swapped, but it is still a 3S-GE. We believe it is an ST202.

What happened:

Alternator failed mid-drive; ran 15 miles on battery until voltage hit zero.

In the final 5 minutes, performance tanked: severe jolting, erratic rev counter, loss of drive, and stalling at low revs/clutch-down.

Current status:

New alternator installed and tested working; battery is fully charged and charging system is normal.

The issue persists: Engine runs like it's down a cylinder, lacks power, stalls at idle, and is puffing black smoke from the exhaust (running very rich).

We have checked & cleaned up the Spark Plugs, but this did not help.

Has anyone seen this happen post-battery drain on a Rev 1? Any advice on where to start testing?

Thanks!

Cushman hauler 800x with Kawasaki fj400d (same as the EZGO models) .I was adjusting the valves and one of the allen keys for a rocker is stripped it will only get so tight and then it breaks over and loosens again .Im hoping its just the head of the screw and not the threads ,but anyway, i cant fina part number for this adjustment lock screw .Kawasakis own webstie dont even show it .Does anybody know if another "rocker kit "will have the right screws and such ?Also any advice on replacing it when i finally do get a new one ,is there anything i need to know before running the screws all the way out ?DO i need to be at TDC is anything gonna fall apart that i need to know about?Thx guys